Does anyone know how the KR1 beam profile ( angle, size of hot spot, amount of spill, etc) as well as throw distance compares with fireflies E01 Mini thrower with Osram?
Thanks
Its on pre-order so those specs wouldnât be known by consumers yet, as for throw I donât trust fireflies claims the beam profile on the E01 has a lot of rings from the corona and spill and looks pretty horrible.
I agree about the rings around the corona of the E01, but they donât bothar me that much. I like it that the overall angle is narrower than any of my other lights so that it a) doesnât waste lumens for the side spill and b) doesnât blind people walking towards me on the side. The turbo has a bit of a bluish tint which I donât like that much but I am ok with it; actually, surprisingly, the tint color depends on the type of battery I use, and the shittier battery the better the tint, go figure. And I also agree fireflies has somewhat a tendency to overstate the candella sometimes. Iâve yet to measure the Cd on it but it appears the throw is about 500m.
What I absolutely love about The E1 is its narrow angle. Would be great if TR1 also had an overall narrow angle, came though on the candella numbers and had a nice comparatively beefy hot spot.
That âangry blueâ is your higher drain cells pushing the emitter well past a healthy level of current for it, since the white flats have a low Vf. Anything about 7-8A is too much for the WF2.
Is it normal that my KR4 mule (8 x XP-L HI) takes quite a while to get âhotâ? Iâm using a fresh 30Q and it takes a good couple of minutes to get to what I would describe as âuncomfortable to holdâ. By comparison, my 3 x XP-L HI FW3A takes about 10 seconds to become painful.
I know mules are obviously perceptively far less bright than a light with an optic to focus the beam, but it just doesnât feel like itâs giving its all.
Use the thick wire on the negative end of the cell and the outer tube, use a small wire to simulate the tapping of the e-switch on the inner tube and outer wall or negative end of the cell
BE CAREFUL THOUGH ! a mistake is very fast made and might end up in unwanted situations !
LOL, someone complaining that their light doesnât get scorching hot fast enough. Heh. Wish my D4V2 had that problem (and didnât step down so soon).
Iâm guessing then that 10A through 4 emitters is not as efficient as 10A through 8 emitters. Each one is not being driven as hard, so isnât heating up as fast.
OK I canât get it any higher than 5.3A. Is something wrong with my KR4?
5.3 / 8 = 0.66A per emitter. Using the chart from an output test of another XP-L HI (admittedly cool white) that puts it at arouns 250lm per emitter, or about 2000lm in total. I measured 1800lm in my integrating sphere.
Could someone (perhaps Hank) confirm whether or not this is correct for the KR4 mule?
Are you sure you are in turbo mode?
switch on the light with one click and then double click for turbo
double click from off will give max ramp mode, not turbo
Heh. Wish my D4V2 had that problem (and didnât step down so soon). 
