Manker U21 switch fails on me. There is a small round metal on the switch that fell off inside. Manker doesn't want to be involved. So I say no more Manker lights for me.
See if UTorch carries the switchcap? <cackle>
yeah that is the same switch they use on the U11
little steel dome thing held on by spider webs and a prayer
totally unrepairable
lose that little metal piece (which can also fall off and into the other circuitry) and it;s hosed
wle
Little blob o’ hot-glue?
Sorry but I am not fortunate enough to have a glue gun around. Being in a third world country and paid 15 dollars a day spending it on something is not really a wise idea. Lucky enough Gearbest offered me a 30 dollars rebate. It is better than nothing. I just don't see any justice from Manker when I emailed them about the problem.
Failed:
3 or 4 XPL led’s because I accidentally destroyed them mounting them in the light or during a reflow (if once isn’t enough then more is better, or is it worse?) and a BLF fet driver that I somehow over-heated doing a spring bypass on it.
Wins:
Anything I didn’t try to improve :+1:
To be fair I’ve never had a light go bad on me or not work (except for cheap incandescent lights) so I’ve had great luck to this point with stock flashlights.
Failed
Manker - U11 usb charging function.
Klarus G20 - went into self-destruction mode by itself.
ThorFire S70S - went dead after 15mins of usage, luckily seller is kind enough to give full refund.
Every light i bought since June… :weary: - And as of today my 1 month old Haikelite MT01 no longer turns on.
I’ve been lucky so far.
The only light I’ve gotten that was a failure has been the UT-01. It had the bad e-switch that was common with that model. The distributor replaced it and the new one is great.
Lights I bought that work but I still hate…that sounds like a topic for another thread.
SMM
utorch ut01:switch fail(replace the switch, work like a charm)
manker e14:switch and led fail(the dome flew out)
Convoy S2+ - Went into dim mode for no reason. Biscotti driver changed and its still the same. Convoy C8 clear XPL-HI - tailcap switch click is hit and miss. Never ever a Convoy again.
2 fails. First is my BLF A6; weak tailcap spring brought on on the dreaded bump-mode-change disease :rage: Second was a BLF 348 with a failed switch; it was a gift but luckily I had a few more on hand to set things right quickly 
Not going to list the older ‘low-tech’ light fails of which there were many.
Phil
Fails: Two Olight S30’s that were bought from Gearbest when they had the big sale a few years ago. Used the first one for a few months with no problem, then it developed a big parasitic drain. Several different samsung and panasonic batteries went from fully charged to the battery low voltage protection kicking in within 2 or 3 days while the flashlight was sitting on a table. Took the second one out of the package and the switch broke the third or fourth time I pressed it. Button just went down and didn’t come back up. Olight replaced both with new lights for free under warranty.
Semi fail - Two Thorfire TG06S purchased on Aliexpress. Couldn’t remove the tailcap from either light. Finally used strap wrenches and found a clear hard glue or varnish had been applied to the threads when it was assembled. Cleaned all the hardened gunk out, but occasionally I still have to twist the tailcap back and tighten it down again to get it to work.
Wins: Olight I3E eos. Been on my everyday key ring for almost 2 years with no problems. Been dropped several times. It’s the timex of key ring lights - takes a licking and keeps on ticking.
Lumintop tool - Very light, like the feel of the clicky switch, works every time, good pocket clip.
-Utorch UT01: Switch fail—-replaced—-perfect
-Utorch UT02: Low output. The lowest I can find on the internet from anybody. Got partial refund but still not managed to remove the glued tube.
Now I’m afraid to buy UT03
-Sunwayman C22C: Last week I dropped from half meter high to concrete and the switch only do something once of 5 clicks.
-Convoy S3: Not the light’s fault… Putted in a box of water and freezed it It looked fun 
Water got inside and 7 of 8 7135’s died—-replaced them—-works like charm
SK68: Driver died after half year—-Made an ignition timing light from it for my car
Crelant V4A was fine for a couple months. After a couple of nimh cell changes it started a dim continuous flickering. After messing with it a bit I got it to work. A few days later flickering again. Changed cells for a freshly charged set and cleaned the ends of the cells, contacts, etc but the problem continued. Eventually I’ll gut it and rebuild it as something useful.
An old planet bike LED light failed, no idea why the switch works, the LED works, the contacts are fine the wires have continuity, it just won’t power up. Interestingly it is the first direct thermal path light i know of and it is maybe 15 years old.
A Klarus P1A has a switch problem if i tighten the switch retaining ring the light won’t power on but if i loosen it too much it falls out, So i have to maintain not tight but not loose tightness every couple battery recharges
Crelant V21 makes sizzling noises intermittently while its running, but the light works fine otherwise.
Lumintop SD75 — aka a battery-destroying paperweight. Two sets of 4x18650’s were drained to unsafe undervoltage levels after sitting in it for a while, due to a parasitic current leak issue that many others also report.
sounds like you have a battery problem
ridiculous fails that are my own fault:
Maglite Solitaire, cannot unscrew the tailcap after leaving an alkaline inside for a few years…
they should design it so I can remove alkalines that have welded themselves inside… LOL
oLight i3s… lost it somewhere
they should design it with a GPS locator so I can find it
Lumintop tool won’t turn on for more than a few seconds
I fired high mode, over and over again, but it just goes dim really fast
I don’t want to buy another battery, and I should not have to charge it so soon… it is supposed to last for 30 minutes on high
I spilled coffee on myself while driving
they should make roads smoother…
I bought a DV-S9. The light never got any real use (mostly because I hated the slide switch), just take it out of the drawer, tighten the tail cap, play with it for minute, and put it back. It just died.
On the bright side, now I have a nice Liitokala 26650 that needs a new home. It would practically be a sin not to buy that WW KDIY K5.
the tool has a very complicated switch, there is a steel spring that touches bat negative, then goes through a hole to provide button spring action, and touches another steel thing,
that makes the contact to a steel ring, which goes outside to 4 teeth, which try to cut into and contact an aluminum ring, which contacts the light body (in an anodized part of the light…) to send current to the head
mine went bad from alkaline cancer and the switch can;t be disassembled really, at least most of it, so one of the steel/steel steel /AL junctions may be making partial contact
that (dimming and fading) was one of the symptoms.
the other one was6;; just not doing anything’’.
wle