Yes I know it can be solved DIY but I don’t want to spend a light 70-80$ that I need to do DIY repairs instantly out of box to use it. I know this solves the short tube problem but it makes a gap between head and tube. And if I know it is there I can’t get my eyes off that gap 
The tube is long enough for a real 40T and MANY other batteries. Its the fake 40T Lishen they sell that doesnt fit
It seem the complaints have been heard and they are trying to fix them, a good news! like you i'm waiting a little bit for a better finished product.
Do you usually notice a cell gets its peak output when used for the first ever time?
I got 8300 on a brand-new never used 40T but on every test since it’s been around 7700
Yes, the cell settles in with some use as do the LED’s themselves. Enough hard use and the cells no longer charge to the same Voltage as when new.
And then there are those times when one particular brand gives the most amperage but not the most lumens… yes once in while a brand or particular model will give the most lumens, sometimes by quite a spread, but show less tail amps being pulled.
By chance do you think it could be the contact from the battery? Sometimes mine appears to have a weak turbo, then I break connection on the tail cap and tighten it down and try again with huge difference in output.
Clean tube end contacts with a clean wipe. It can make surprising jumps in lumens sometimes.
My MF02S did that for awhile then it finally stopped. I removed the battery cage and the noises were still there so it could have just been the metal expanding and contracting making those weird noises.
So the ramping configuration seems to get brighter than smooth. Why isn’t the same for both? I thought once you set one it would apply to both. So there is no way to configure smooth ramp ceiling and floor at all?
•
this help?
Ramp Config Mode
————————
While the light is on in a ramping mode, click 4 times to enter the
config mode for the current ramp.
For smooth ramping mode, there are two menu options:
1. Floor. (default = 1/150)
2. Ceiling. (default = 120/150)
For the stepped ramping mode, there are three menu options:
1. Floor. (default = 20/150)
2. Ceiling. (default = 120/150)
3. Number of steps. (default = 7)
To configure the floor level, click the button equal to the number of
ramp levels (out of 150) at which the floor should be. To set the
lowest possible level, click once.
To configure the ceiling level, each click goes one level lower. So 1
click sets the highest possible level, 2 clicks is the 2nd-highest, 3
clicks is the 3rd-highest level, etc. To set the default of 120/150,
click 31 times.
When configuring the number of steps, the value can be anything from 2
to 150.
That’s more than anything I could find. So your saying I can configure both smooth and ramp modes if I enter config in either smooth or ramp separately?
while on in ‘smooth ramping’ press 4 times to get into programming mode. Just watch it for a while. It will give you 2 options, then it will end.
while on in ‘step ramping’ press 4 times to get into programming mode. Just watch for a while. It will give you 3 options, then it will end.
…. now go back and do it again and enter your chosen values 
Ok, that was it 
thank you
I’m pretty sure toykeeper has stated there are not individual ramp limits for stepped vs. smooth ramps.
In my use it doesn’t seem like it anyway…
Yes there is. I tried to change my floor/ceiling limits to max incorrectly and ended up decreasing my smooth ramp ceiling. After saypat explained it to me my smooth and ramp modes both match again. So see for yourself go into ramp config in both smooth and ramp, ramp goes through 3 flutter program windows and smooth only goes through 2.
Well 8300 at turn on became 7700 yesterday and now 7000 today. I thought it was my new 21700’s getting worn in but my 18650’s are getting similar drops. Cleaned contacts, charged Lux meter batteries, confused.com
Surely the LED’s can’t degrade that fast!!!
Yes they can when extreme heat is involved!
Think about it. Without good thermal transfer to the head(no paste, no good thermal transfer), the LEDs can heat up to very very high levels. Not hot enough to kill them/de-solder instantly, but enough to kill them slowly.
It’s quite literally the power of a bypassed XP-L2 Q8, but without the high thermal mass/power dissipation. So imagine if it doesn’t have thermal contact to the head/doesn’t throttle quickly enough.
Yikes!
I think just to be safe I better not turn on my E07 to turbo again until I service the bottom of the star for proper thermal path.
I bet Fireflies ran the light quite a few times before Lumen testing hence the 6900 advertised for the XPL, which is just about where I’m at now.
That does make sense.
Usually flashlight manufacturers either overestimate the lumen output (in the case of really cheap or dishonest manufacturers), or they give fairly accurate output (for more premium and honest manufacturers).
The E07 is the first time I recall a light manufacturer undestimating the peak output by such a large margin. They listed 6900 lumens while people on BLF have been reporting 8300 lumens. That’s a pretty huge lumen underestimate!
However, it makes sense that Fireflies might only have tested at 6900 lumens if their test light had seen a lot of use at high power with improper thermal path before they tested the output.