My emisar d4s xpl hi 5000k still measure 4270 lumen after months of used…
Fireflies e07 6500k measured 7000-7100 lumen…
We are not going to get pass 7000 lumen on the stock e07.
Lol I’ve just tested my D4S XPL HI 5000k and got 4300!
I also tested my Fireflies ROT66 Nichia and it’s dropped 800 lumens!
Once the cushion foam in the ROT66 tailcap gets compressed for an extended period, it doesn’t push as hard on the battery carrier and hence weaker electrical contact. Put some spacers in the tail cap and watch the output go back up.
So how does that work, what does the 50C factory set Thermal limit actually measure then? Maybe we could set the thermal limit down to a number that would not degrade the leds as a temp quick fix, which would just result in shorter turbo times.
The temp sensor is on the driver not the MCPCB, which is typical but in this case the mediocre thermal path will take a bit to make it there
I wonder then if I set the thermal limit to around 40C if that would be a good fix for now, what do you think? To remove everything and resolder those wires doesn't look that easy so I'm trying to avoid that for now. This way I could still have limited access to turbo.
Yes, 40-45C would be good, especially in this cold weather.
I do wonder how they could mess this up with the E07, but not with the PL47.
Machining tolerances, the head is about a mm from allowing the MCPCB to sit flat and make full contact.
Ok then, 40C it is for now. Going to brush up on my Anduril and see if I can make it happen tonight!
If it wasn't for my lack of good soldering skills, I would take it apart right away and lap everything.
If you file the MCPCB down a little in diameter it fits right in
So I just have to unscrew the board that has the leds on it and file a little around the edges and that's it, no soldering?
.... just removed the screws from the aux led board and it's obvious now that I would have to unsolder the wires on both boards to file the MCPCB down a little. BTW, my aux board screws were loose, they were sort of just hanging there so when I screwed everything back, I tightened them just slightly to be firm.
Yeah, unfortunately you have to de-solder the wires and then put them back when you’re done, and there are a LOT of little things all around that you don’t want to touch with the iron! Like a game of Operation! 
Too delicate an operation for me lol. Margin of error is very slim around there and I can just see myself bridging a lot of little circuits and creating a huge chaos by the time I'm done.
Opened up my E07 tonight to redo the thermal compound.
- As expected the bottom of my star was shiny copper with no compound on it except at the very edges.
- Before desoldering any wires I made notes on where each wire went so I wouldn’t have to worry about mixing them up.
- Desoldering the 3 aux LED wires was simple.
- Desoldering the driver wires to the star was harder. I normally have a fine tip in the iron with temp set at 350 degrees F. That turned out to be utterly insufficient for the very thick driver wires (either 20 gauge or maybe 18 gauge). I had to swap in a thicker tip and crank my iron to 400. Once I did that the driver wires desoldered without issue.
- Once I removed the star I chamfered the bottom edge with a handfile.
- I wiped off the original very thin layer of thermal compound and added a much thicker layer of Arctic Silver 5 thermal grease.
- Reinstalled and resoldered the star and the aux LED boards, and screwed the star back in. All 3 of my driver screws were fine. No stripped Phillips heads.
Turned it on afterwards and everything works. 
Entire procedure took about 45 minutes.
I should probably check my E07 too. I’ve been avoiding soldering though, because all my solder tips are dead or very close to dead. I need to get some new ones, and maybe figure out how to make them last longer.
man u guys got me worried.
I colour code wires then desolder them. it was dried and no sign of thermal paste 
My Lii-40A (Liitokala 4000mAh 21700) flat-top has also been dented on top by the FF E07 (grey body color). Any idea if the Lii-40A is a rewrapped LiShen 2170SA? It looks quite similar.
help me…
im mess up the thick wire…
maybe there is a cut in the insulation.
now my e07 become twistie…
alway on until i unscrew the tailcap… 
any idea how to remove the driver
seems you somehow connected led- with ground...
€dited