First budget 18650 light - Solarforce?

I’d suggest you get both the forward and reverse tail switches as well so you can figure out firsthand which you prefer.
I like forward clickies in general but that is mainly because of the way I usually use a light and that is for a few minutes at a time.
A forward clicky has a “momentary” feature where you just touch the button and it comes on until you release finger pressure. If you want it to stay on you fully click it of course.
A reverse clicky works better when you generally leave the light on for longer periods of time but frequently change the output levels. You’re walking in the woods and it’s dark so you have it on low and then you get to a clearing and it’s lighter so you change the light to medium and then maybe to high to check out something.
Tail standing is important to some and not at all to others. If you don’t care about tail standing then having a button that protrudes is much more comfortable than having a recessed button. If you have lamps in your house and perhaps a headlamp then you may not need to tail stand your flashlights :slight_smile:
If you think you would like a crenelated bezel you should still probably order a flat one as well in case you later decide that having a pointy flashlight is not such a good thing.

I think you guys have bought up a very good point about the reverse vs forward clicky. I just read this:

Doesn't sound too good. Problem is, I can't get a reverse clicky switch in the grey L2P colour I want :(

Don't know what to do now...

I know just how you feel.. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/5673

One must always check with SolarforceFLASHLIGHTFOY regarding Solarforce lights.

The Manafont XM-L is driven a little harder than the Solarforce XM-L. I have both, and prefer the Solarforce drop in a little better.

I ordered some switch internals to make my L2T reverse instead of forward. I hope they can withstand the high current draw of my Manafont XM-L drop-in.

Lol, yup, you are in the exact same position as me. I'm tempted to get the silver L2 from itc as that says it's reverse clicky:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solarforce-L2-GY-CR123A-18650-Flashlight-Body-/280560028364?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D15%26pmod%3D130581552891%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6192254263007959493

Can I ask why you prefer the SF drop in? It's just a lot of people are saying the UF from Manafont is the one to go for. And yes, I think we need Foy in this thread :) Been looking at his reviews.

Wow, that is cheap! Are they genuine/the same as you would get from solarforce-sales.com?

I just got those switches. I used one (well 2 since I butchered the first) in a Maglite mod. The traces on the circuit board seem to pull off very easily. I haven't finished yet (ie. haven't fired it up on the new switch), but my Mag was drawing around 1.6A from (2) 18650's.

I too would like to hear why.

-Garry

They are genuinely fake... read not original SF... but that doesn't mean they are bad. I have a fake L2 in silver here as my 4AA XP-G setup and a black UF 504B with 3AA and an XM-L (with spacer and additional extensions). So far no complaints, fit and finish may not reach SF level but I'm pretty happy with mine. The dual setup for ~10.80 is especially nice because you can optionally run 2x18650 setup which rock runtime-wise. So they are pretty what I want SF to carry on their site. The L2m is too short for 18650... make sure to get the full L2 version. I like the matte finish of the L2T and the L2P better than the old SF L2 and these fakes.... but I have no trouble recommending them. They are even thread compatible with the originals.

How are you running 4 AA's in an L2? Bunch of extensions and sleeve so batteries don't rattle? Isn't that awfully long and skinny?

-Garry

Yes, Yes, Yes and Yes ;-)... but somehow I like my Frankenlights and they are perfect for those with LiIon-phobia. The spacers are the tricky parts to get.

The Superfire 501C 2AA is missing in that line-up.... So I have 2AA, 3AA and 4AA lights based on 18650 tubes... I think old4570 went as far as 6AA in series ... It all came from my inability to find decent cheap C- or D-cell lights

These parts would make a nice start for a 3AA Manafont XM-L 3mode combo (1,2,3)

I have both the Manafont and Solarforce XM-L Drop ins. The Manafont XM-L is a nice drop in that really spews out a lot of light and is extremely powerful. I also have the Solarforce XM-L that is also very nice. It is a little less powerful, and does not get as hot as the Manafont. I also like the tint of the light. I feel that the benefits far outweigh the negatives as far as the less light and less heat coming from the host. The Solarforce XM-L still spews a tremendous amount of light, but I feel the drop in better suits what I was looking for in a light. Sometimes a little less is more. But I do like both of them.

Are these really reverse clickies? A member of another forum wants to repelcae his L2p forward ckicky with a reverse. I told him to take the manafonts. He wrote a question to manafont and they told him, that is would be a forward clicky.

Now he bought for $3,99 the option of the solarforce-sales service team - they offer him the inner parts of a reverse switch. He will post some pictures, when he gets it.

You know, I'm not sure. I've been fumbling with this mod and haven't finished it yet (very close). I haven't paid attention to whether it's forward or reverse.

Well Vectrex I have gone ahead and ordered one of Lightake's "L2" bodies on your word! Better be good! (Just kidding) This will be my first P60 light. I also ordered the 3mode XM-T6 drop-in Lightake had and used coupon code "retailmenot". I know the drop-in may not be great, but I can swap the driver.

(My fingers have been itching to push the PayPal button on something lately.)

-Garry

Can't go wrong with solarforce-sales.com - has everything you need, fast shipping, great prices.

And exceptional customer service.

Yup. I should have included that as well.

Whoa, you're from Wisconsin as well. Where about?

With regard to the bezel issue, while you can't go wrong with either choice 2 or 3, the slightly aggressive #3 has the added benefit of leaking more light out from under bezel if the light is left on and lens down. This is something that has helped in my household where the wife and kids love to use all the flashlights but are not always so diligent about turning them off.

I also remember that at least one member here ground down the stock bezel, thus making it into something similar to #3. A viable option if you have the tools, time, and talent.

It's the infamous "Foybezel"!

-Garry

^ Who else could it have been other than FamousFoy. I should have know. It sure did turn out nice, didn't it?

Thanks for finding that for me/us, Garry.

This is a better example . . . https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4952

Just found this thread.

It used to be simple at Solarforce-sales, all L2Ps were tailstanding reverse clickies and all L2s were "tactical" non-tail standing reverse clickies. Without warning (either that or I just didn't re-read thier clear as mud descriptions) the next L2Ps I got arrived as forward clickies. Not huge deal, although I do somewhat prefer a reverse clickie. Also, as I've said before; other than the tail cap, the difference between an L2P and the new version L2 is hardly worth mentioning but the L2 is cheaper.

I apologize for being so repetitive about this but an L2 with the 3-mode UF XM-L drop-in from Manafont (SKU 5720) will be the best $30 flashlight you will ever purchase. Period. Yes, the stock L2 bezel is stupid. Hence, the inspiration for Foybezel™ so, I suppose a different bezel must be figured into the price but there's not a better quality host, that I'm aware of.

I've seen inconsistent quality occasionally with the older style L2s (mainly with colors other than black) and I've yet to hear of anyone not liking their L2T . . .

(that link I put up makes me miss my black L2T)

justgetbothFoy