l2t is the most tactical looking out of them, but the l2t chips/scratches pretty easily, dropped a screw driver, a little pocket one on the body of my l2t 6 to 12 inches, took a chip off, good thing my gf had some flat black nail polish. i dropped my solarforce xml drop in hard today, from about 3 or 4 feet onto hard tile flooring while rewrapping it with aluminum foil, slipped out of my hand, put a little dent on the lip at the top of the reflector. i finished wrapping it, threw it into my l2m 1 cr123 body with l2t head and tail cap, still worked. l2m head doesnt screw all the way down onto l2t body in case anyone is wondering, about a 2 to 3 mm gap.
there looks to be fakes out there, i think focalprice.com solarforce hosts are fakes.
my solarforce 3 mode xml pulls about 1.6 to 1.7 amps max unprotected 2900mah redilast 18650s, and max 1.4 running trustfire flames protected, it doesn't get hot at all on the trustfires, thats one reason to have that drop in, tested current with my expensive fluke meter, have also measured the heat with an infrared thermometer after over 5 minutes of runtime never going over 100 degrees farenheit i don't know how to convert it, at host body, host thread, and reflector body. ill have some measurements on the uf xml dropin soon.
Just read this, very interesting. I have two things to say, the first one to the OP. I am afraid I don't think you will get your Klarus, I could be wrong but I had one on order and was told it was out of stock (at the price I bought it) forever!
The second thing, Garry is that a Mercian in you avitar? Looks like it has a barbers pole.
I emailed solarforce-sales and they said the only reverse clicky L2 is this one:
No L2Ps :( If this has a matt black finish, i might just go for that if Foy says there isnt much difference- dont know if it tail stands though.
Or i could get a black L2P and also buy a reverse clicky tail switch but it will be expensive and im not sure its worth it. Also dont know if the tail switch would match in colour :S
I ordered it at the cheap price too. They have been giving me the run around as well. Live chat has said its in stock, Summer said it hasnt been in stock and will be shipped next week. Im not too convinced tbh and seriously unimpressed. I will will lay the smackdown on them soon if they dont ship it as promised and it will be my first and last order.
Ha my name is Marc too and we ordered the exact same light!
Nope, it's my 1989 Schwinn Voyageur at the 0 mile marker of the C&O canal towpath at it's intersection with the Potomac river in Washington D.C.
Last year I did a 5 day 332 mile biking / camping trip from Pittsburgh, PA to Washington D.C. Here's a link to my blog from the trip (which also contains a link to my Google Picasa photo album). Note there are some flashlight related photos in there! (On the blog page, be sure to look back through the "archive" page links on the right side.)
We're planning another trip this year. Probably doing Cumberland, MD to Pittsburgh, PA and back. And this year I plan to go with a much better supply of flashlights!
Just tested one of these switches last night. It is a reverse clicky. The switch feels ok quality, but like I said above, the traces pull off the pcb pretty easily.
Guys, do you have to actually turn the flashlight off to change the mode with a forward clicky (From high to low)?
Want the grey L2P, but really put off by the forward clicky. I could get the black and maybe buy a reverse clicky switch if it bothers me. Or are there known compatible reverse switches that I could put in the grey one?
You could try to contact SFS (Jo - Managing Director of International Trading Company & Solarforce) directly and ask for reverse switch internals... I think somebody mentioned a price of $3.99 somewhere... can't find it again.
Thanks Vectrex, looks like replacing the switch with an aftermarket one is a no go then!
And I did contact them but was told the L2 is reverse clicky and all L2P are forward. Doesn't sound like I can get separate internals.
Do you have to actually turn the flashlight off to change the mode with a forward clicky? That could be annoying in the middle of the woods while geocaching!
With forward or reverse, you have to turn the light off to switch modes. However, it's much faster with a reverse clicky as you can just do a short-press to start cycling through modes. With a forward clicky, you have to click it all of the way off, then short-press to start cycling through modes. Once you get to the right one, do a full-press. To me, not a huge difference, and I like the "tactical" feature on the forward clickys.
If you were in the US, I would just sell you my older style L2P reverse clicky.
Just received my grey L2P reverse clicky. Really happy with the quality but I think the threads could use some grease. Can anyone recommend some that I can get in the uk?
