✌ FREEME - ROVER Titanium 130lm Rechargeable 19g Keychain 10180 Light with Necklaces - ALIVE @$15.99!!!

Interested

Thank you, Freeme.
Got one of the blueish and one of the pinkish. His and hers :smiley:
Now to see if Banggood actually ships the lights or just keeps changing the expected ship date until I give up and accept a refund :weary:

interested

Please one for me

I’m interested.

I’m interested. is the battery included too?

Included.

Any news on the LED or CCT/CRI?

I’d take a couple stonewashed if the emitter was known. BG’s description says rotary switch and zoom. I am assuming it’s a twisty with no zoom.

Available tints?

Interested

Ordered 4

I’m interested in getting a couple, but haven’t received a code yet.

Buyer please take note.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/59337/2

Is it possible to open the flashlight and change the led? Maybe they are using an inefficient led to get only 70 lumen.

Interested

Me neither. :cry:

@freeme can I get a code still the 1deals isn’t giving me a coupon
Interested

These don’t use reed switches, all of these 2 mode 10180 lights that I’ve seen use a metal membrane switch and 2 resistors mounted to the emitter board that act as a driver.
When you screw the head in the contact on top of the battery/charger tube touches the metal membrane and closes the circuit for the first level. On further tightening it engages a contact behind the membrane to go to the second level.
Since the initial contact with the membrane switch is very light there is a good chance it will seem “finnicky” simply as a result of being a low pressure connection. This is often exacerbated by oxidation or flux remnants on the (usually) copper contact on top of the battery/charger tube.
Some workarounds are:
*Keep turning after the light turns on. With practice you’ll be able to get a good connection before engaging the second mode.
*Ensure that threads between battery/charger tube and head are clean.
*Remove battery and clean the copper contact (+) on battery/charger tube. I typically drag it carefully and perpendicularly a couple times up a metal file until bright copper is exposed. Doesn’t take much!

Can’t speak about this one but I’ve modded a couple other lights like this. You have to unsolder the membrane switch and reattach it after the mod. While you’re at it you may want to shore up the solder connections on the surface mounted resistors.

The simplicity of this driver design really reduces the points of failure, but to eliminate the initial weak connection a custom membrane switch would need to be designed. These are off-the-shelf components so we can get them for such a good price!
Ordered!