FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

shirnask · January 14, 2020, 11:23pm

I use a template and very little solder paste and try not to touch sliced emitters. Did you clean them after reflow before testing?

contactcr · January 14, 2020, 11:31pm

I tap most of mine, sliced or not. I habitually put too much solder on. On the off chance I don’t put too much I will “push” it side to side and up and down a little to make sure it’s even and leave it be.

pc_light · January 15, 2020, 1:37am

I wonder if its the emitters themselves?

They’re “rated” /tested to take more but I also burned two out in an FW3A, just not at the same time. I did a reflow and after a while it burned one out. I replaced that one, ran a while, then a different one burned out :person_facepalming:

I went back to the original triple XP-L and haven’t had issues since.

LedTed · January 15, 2020, 6:02am

71k5:

cyclops:

Why copper wire though? Does current passes through? I was wondering if I can use a paper clip!

What I think the rubber/copper o-ring does, is it provides equal pressure around the perimeter of the blister switch membrane. Which requires more pressure to achieve the break-over pressure required for the switch to close.
Whereas the “nubin” concentrates the pressure at the very tip/center of the blister switch, requiring less pressure to achieve the break-over pressure needed to close the switch.

So, no.

As long as the metal ring has no sharp edge, from cleaving with a cutter, it should work like the copper ring.

But I do think the rubber o-ring would cause less abrasion on the surface of the blister switch surface membrane, than a metal ring would.

That’s my 2 cents, which is probably not even worth a penny.

Having tested membrane switches (very similar to the switch used in the FWXX), I would pretty much agree with you. And would only like to add my ¢2. Changing the “nibin” for an o-ring will probably shorten the useable life of the switch.

That being said, I did so and have had great success in eliminating accidental activations. I feel that benefit outweighs the probable downfall of early switch failure.

M4D_M4X · January 15, 2020, 1:39pm

Andreas Schilke from germany made a beautiful mod:

he told me he made the brass clips by himself and used red power-coat-paint

JaredM · January 15, 2020, 9:26am

That is it EXACTLY!! For some reason I missed this image in your post prior to this. Which model was this from? I’ve bought 4 over the years, three wizards, and a predator back in the day.

EDIT: https://www.armytek.com/accessories/spare-parts/lanyards/lanyard-armytek-with-ring/

Here it is! Thanks pinkpanda!

For anyone looking for a low profile lanyard ring and is willing/able to do some light modding to get it to fit, there probably aren’t many better options

Unloco · January 15, 2020, 12:26pm

I can’t see any of the images you post.
Neither these nor those of other post.
Is it just me or someone else?

raccoon · January 15, 2020, 12:33pm

I can see them.

They're Facebook images, and the URL is kinda long.

M4D_M4X · January 15, 2020, 3:06pm

those are linked from his Facebook

I ask if I can host them

€dit:

Are they visible now?

treellama · January 15, 2020, 1:58pm

I have one of Andreas’s brass clips:

Unloco · January 15, 2020, 5:00pm

Now, I can see by clicking the right button and then “View image”.
Before, in any way.
Thanks!

pinkpanda3310 · January 16, 2020, 1:54am

Cool. I wasn’t sure because I don’t own any armytek lights. Looks low profile just like you said :+1:

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This looks awesome. Though I wonder if he’s created weak points in the clip with all those trits? And does the glue flex along with the clip? To me it doesn’t look structurally sound. It does look good though

M4D_M4X · January 16, 2020, 8:07am

i doubt his intention was to create a work light ;)

AScw · January 16, 2020, 9:32pm

M4D M4X is right it’s more art than anything else

xevious · January 16, 2020, 10:37pm

That clip looks great! Thanks for sharing, Martin. :+1: Not so sure about so many trit slots but I like the concept. Does Andreas sell those clips through a venue here?

pinkpanda3310 · January 17, 2020, 1:12am

I get that people have shelf queens but IMO the light still needs to be usable and not fragile. Of course, I don’t know how fragile that clip is. Hence I asked.

Scallywag · January 17, 2020, 1:46am

Has the banggod lanyard ring been ruled out for some reason?

pinkpanda3310 · January 17, 2020, 1:43am

The armytek one is just a low profile option

hodor · January 17, 2020, 7:46pm

I got mine from Barry (Sofirn). They should be the same ones used in the SP36 Anduril and SP10S. I’ve checked a few now and the majority of them can’t handle many amps. Convoy S2+ (8x7135) for example turns blue on the highest mode. I’ve checked and rechecked the reflows. Ended up reflowing XPL-HIs and Nichia 219Cs and not had any problems. So all signs point towards suspect emitters atm.

bansuri · January 23, 2020, 6:45am

I haven’t kept up so forgive me if this has been done already.
The button was just too sensitive for me so I traded mine shortly after receiving, was recently gifted another and wanted to make it work for me.
I removed the nipple from the center of the rubber disc and replaced it with an o-ring with an I.D. slightly bigger than the O.D. of the nipple.
This isn’t a flashlight-style o-ring but one you’d get out of one of those kits you can buy at harbor freight.
The action is just stiff enough that I don’t turn it on when putting it back in my pocket.
O-ring seems to stay in place from friction so far. It fits into the dished area around the nipple mounting point.
Instead of the nipple pushing in the very center of the membrane switch, the o-ring pushes further out on the dome.
Works great for now, will update post if there are any issues.