Dont know what your trying to say.
Look at your diagram you posted, one led is in series and the other two are in parallel.
Still dont know what your trying to tell me.
“one led is in series” with a statement like that I give up, believe what you like your loss not mine.
Someone pass the popcorn
Cheers David
Lol! I hear ya.
Why dont you do an experiment with one cell, put two leds in series and check the current at the cell then put them in parallel and tell me which one has a higher reading.
Are you saying the led on the end is not in series?
yess
I use to work on power supplies and amps years ago as a hobby and have forgotten alot but, in order for those leds to be in a true parallel circuit you would need a resistor to complete the circuit not the led. The led on the end is going to see the most voltage and current i believe.
I must be crazy to keep trying, just one more go.
One cell is 4.2v max, two leds in series is rated at 5.54v min, however they do go lower but I have no info for lower and has no bearing here.
At 100ma a xp-g2 is pulling 2.77v, so two in series at 100ma would pull 5.54v, changing to parallel would be 200ma at 2.77v, same wattage both ways.
If you cannot understand that please do some reading on the matter.
In answer to your smart reply about using one led in series, are you serious???
One led cannot be in series or parellel, that takes two or more.
Cheers David, who has had enough, goodnight.
Sorry to upset you, didnt mean to sound smart or mean. I was just asking.
I didnt mean series with the other leds i meant the circuit or what i should of said is it completes the circuit.
I see your brain power is far superior than mine forgive me oh smart one. i will not bother your superior intellect any longer. 
aw73, don’t be upset that you got schooled. You may still learn something from this thread yet.
Alright, I am not going to try to make a hermy out of you, but think about what you just said;
“The led on the end is going to see the most voltage and current i believe.”
Maybe you are thinking of garden sprinklers?
If they are in parallel, each one will get the same voltage and current less any wire losses.
You mentioned power supplies and amps, so I am going to take a wild guess and think that you are referring to car stereos?
If you were to wire three speakers in parallel, will the speaker “on the end” be louder than the other 2?
Never happened to me and I sold car stereo for 10+ years.
Bottom line is your light box is on dope, reading high as others have said.
You got a Cheap light that performs as expected but is not built as robust as you would have liked. You are frustrated in the fact that you ordered a second one that will be the same build. Understandable.
However in your first post you ended it with this:
“I guess you cant expect much for $23.”
So there you have it.
It’s not the end of the world and does not need to be a bogus paypal dispute, just make a heat sink and enjoy the light and take pride in the fact that you were able to improve the budget model into the personalized custom aw73 model.
It’s how we all learn, that’s why we are here as a group.
Please post you mods with this light, it may turn out to be one of the best soup can lights with a little work.
Thanks,
Keith
I didnt mean to start anything or make anyone upset. Its funny how people can take things the wrong way even though it is text. I do make mistakes and i can be wrong and i learn new things all the time.
what i was trying to say before or get across is with the voltage in this light being 4.2, putting the leds in series would not make it brighter. Its a trade off, you either have higher voltage and less current or vice versa.
Yes speakers can be louder or softer even in parallel or series. If you dont have a dedicated line from the source “amp” to each speaker then yes they can be different levels and will.
There are cases in diode circuits that what i am talking about has occurred.
“Please post you mods with this light, it may turn out to be one of the best soup can lights with a little work” Thats a great idea soup can light.
$23 dollars to some people for a flashlight is ridiculous. I even used to think people spending $30, $50 ,$100 for a light was an idiot. Now im one of those idiot……lol
Yep, i am learning there are people on here that are just as hard headed as i am……lol
This is a diode in series with a circuit.
And this is a diode in parallel with a circuit.
Now i need to get off my behind today before i get to lazy “whoops too late” and get some things done that i am dreading instead of playing in the forums.
The 2800 lumens being way off with my redneck lumen box is a great possibility. I may have to change the baffle. I want to build a IS but have not done it yet.
GB sent me an email saying they would pay for it to be fixed. I said if all possible send me the shelf. Now magically the support ticket is gone. Thats not good!
I took the the bezel off and while holding the reflector i turned it on and let it run for about 2 minutes and checked it with my temp gun and it was up to 260 degrees or so and then i seen some smoke and got scared and put it back in the light. The reflector never got warm which is the only part that touches the inside. I then let it run for about five minutes are so and unbelievably the case got 118 degrees or so just by the hot air inside. But no more smoke. i can only imagine how hot it was on the inside.
But lights don't work like that. You would be correct, in a fashion, if you put 4.2 volts to a string of 3 XML2s in series, then yes, LOL, current and total power would be much lower, like very near zero. The LEDs would not even light up, not even dimly. The forward voltage would be far far too high for 4.2v to do anything at all with that series string.
But you measured 3.8 amps, and said a series config at that power would produce less heat, and I explained why that was not so because it would be running at near 4x the power if it were putting that same current through a series string vs. a parallel array.
Do you know how LEDs work? More voltage lets more current through? Like a water faucet. The voltage is the tap handle, the current is the volume of water. Open the tap more and you get more water. It's a diode. You get no current flow until the voltage rises above its minimum threshold. A series string of three XML2s needs 10.8 volts applied to let 3.8 amps flow through. Give them less voltage you get less current flowing, give them more voltage and you get more current. They do not work anything like normal DC devices.
Wonder if I can get a refund before mine even arrives. Unless someone wants to mod it for me, haha
So you ran the light with the innards hanging out and found that it got hot... I don't think that's surprising. Put the light together. All of it. Put four batteries in. Turn the light on and let it run until either the batteries run down, or the LEDs fry. If the LEDs fry, I'll give you every penny you paid for it plus whatever the cost for you to mail it to me. Do you understand this yes/no?
The seller didn't make any claims about what temperature the internal parts would run at, nor if the light output would stay at any particular level over extended runtimes. However, if the LEDs run so hot that they fail, THEN you have proof that you got something that's not as advertised. If they don't, you don't. The End.
If you want properly engineered guaranteed ANSI-certified performance you can find any number of +$200 lights that will do those things. This light is not one of those, you didn't pay for one of those, you admit you didn't pay for one of those, and yet you're still upset you didn't get more than what you paid for. I don't get it. You bought a cheap light of questionable provenance and that's what you got.