OK, I managed to upload my pics today.
driver
everything together
molex 1
molex 2
The way the clip is attached to the driver I can see the USBASP, but the test command fails.
I thought about unsoldering the MCU with hot air (my soldering station has this feature) and programming separately, but I suppose there is a risk that the AMC7135s from the other side will fall off, right?
I won’t unsolder the mcu, it’s difficult to grip with the clip when not soldered on a board. And you don’t want to unsolder it each time you change the code (which might be necessary).
Here you can clearly see where to cut the trace:
Concerning the S2+ as a test light - the driver in the S2+ is soldered to the pill, correct? This makes it a serious pain to remove. In fact, you might destroy the driver trying to remove it! I recommend a Convoy M1 or ME which uses a simple retaining ring to hold the driver in.
Also, for testing I have an old spare XM-L2 attached to a PC heatsink with a driver attached (hanging by wires).
-Garry
In S2+ with 4 or less 7135 the driver has a retaining ring.
Hi All, I would like to ask your help. If i flash into Convoy C8 or into S2+ (XP-L HI) the Babka, or Biscotti firmware the whole firmware is very fast. I mean that the blinks are quicker, all the timer is not equial with the timing.
Tried to flash with these fuse settings, but no changes.
avrdude -c usbasp -p t13 -u -Uflash:w:babka.hex -Ulfuse:w:0×75:m -Uhfuse:w:0xFF:m
Do you have any ideas what causes this?
The firmware is working fine on the S2+ with 6x7135 (XM-L2).
Thanks.
I have a stock Convoy driver that I wanted to flash. I know that that the MCU is locked and the easiest work around is to cut the trace of pin 5. To avoid separating the resistor from the 7135, I decided to unsolder pin 5 instead. When I was trying to lift the leg, I accidentally cut it. I was able to flash it with Babka/Biscotti and the driver is now unlocked. Is it ok to leave it this way, keep pin 5 totally isolated? Will I be missing some feature or functionality of the driver in combination with certain custom firmwares?
I could be wrong, but I’m pretty sure pin 5 isn’t needed for anything on a Convoy driver.
Many thanks for the Babka and Ramping UI, gchart.
Oh, and I just checked out that picture. A heads up, but I struggle with those ones. The layout is a little different than a 105C (which has stars on the spring side, I’m guessing yours doesn’t). I think the resistors or capacitor typically used on those are different and it affects the “tap” timing. I find that in order to do a tap to get to the next mode, it’s a very specific like 1 second tap instead of a true quick tap. Just something to look out for do that you’re not feeling like you’ve done something wrong.
Yes, it’s the ubiquitous 105D-like driver made for Convoy. It is not a Nanjg 105D. I ripped the driver out of the S2+ Desert Tan. Does this timing issue affect the Ramping UI, too? How about the Bistro HD for the ATTiny13A, will it work without this problem?
I think any firmware relying on the memory decay trick we use to detect short presses will have the issue. That covers Babka, my ramping UI, Biscotti, Crescendo, etc. They’ll work, it just seems to take the driver a longer time to recognize a short press.
You can train your mind to get used to it if you want. I’m sure it’s just a resistor or the capacitor that’s the difference, but I’ve been too lazy to try swapping them out. Since you can get 105C’s for like $2.50 I usually just keep a bunch on hand and use those.
For those struggling with unsigned USBasp drivers on windows 10 here is solution:
https://rayshobby.net/dead-simple-driver-installation-for-usbasp-and-usbtiny-on-windows/
Today I tried again to do some flashing. On a different driver than before because my sharp-enough knife has not arrived yet.
This time the patient was Q8.
I really like how I can access the MCU w/out unsoldering the leads.
After clipping the MCU and connecting to the PC I see the switch LED light up.
But again there’s
I re-clipped a couple of times. I tried the other orientation, the LED wouldn’t light up. Suggestions?
Checking connections for the 7th time I noticed I got wires 5 and 6 (reset and ground) reversed. Changed that. The switch doesn’t light up now. USBASP gives me the same error as before/ 
A Q8 should flash easily if the wiring is correct and the clip is physically connected. The sck period thing doesn’t matter, but the “target doesn’t answer” thing is important.
If it helps at all… here’s the expected wiring. MCU pin 1 goes on the side with only 2 wires. Also be sure to check if the usbasp wiring might be upside-down.
I tried upside down already.
And use another USBASP (I got 2, from FT).
And tried another ribbon.
I took a DMM and measured the clip - there are connections where they should be and no shorts.
Removed all the wires, rewired based on your picture just in case I persistently do something wrong; having a different reference reduces chance of repeating error. Twice. Still nothing.
Since the button lightened up with incorrect connection, clip successfully connects at least some pins.
I did visual inspection, it seems to sit on the MCU properly.
I have an issue with programming attiny13 when 7135 is connected to pb0 (pin 5). Unsoldering connection before firmware upload helped.
If the wiring is correct clean the contacts carefully on the clip and on the chip itself. On one clip I have if I connect the clip to the chip 180 degrees out the light will turn off on the USBASP. Some 7135 drivers I have had to remove the chip itself to flash.
Thanks.
I’ll try the contact cleaner later.
Frankly, my main suspicion at this point is the cheap SOIC clip. Eq-equo with some stupid error on my side.
Can anyone confirm or deny the need to unsolder 7135 to flash a Q8?…
The Q8 should not need anything soldered to flash it. Removing two screws is enough, on every unit I’ve heard about. If it’s not working, it’s almost certainly due to some sort of physical issue like pins not being connected to the right places.
In my picture above, the usbasp is shown upside-down to make the connections easier to see. When the usbasp is right-side-up, the connected pins should be:
6 7 1 - 5
4 - - - 8