Thanks for sharing
I’m not fond of tricky soldering either, so I try to limit my modifications mostly to firmware. It’s much easier than soldering tiny parts into arrangements they weren’t intended for.
This current thread is definitely not the worst place to ask… Or there’s CRX’s thread for interface cheatsheets: Flashlight User Interface Cheatsheets
The repository’s INDEX file might also be useful, but it’s not the greatest. It’s just the contents of each project’s “meta” file reorganized and merged into one file, to make it easier to search for suitable projects.
In general, a lighted tailcap is kind of a pain on pretty much any light because it depends so much on finicky analog circuit behavior. Djozz or emarkd might have some good tips on doing those though, since they have done quite a few.
Or if you use an e-switch light, it’s easier to have a lighted button since the MCU can power and control it directly. But then it’s difficult to have the button in the tail. The FW3A does it, but it has no button light and it’s somehow still not out yet.
can someone give me a link for a working AVRdude? In the tutorial threads the links are not working. I replaced my computer and I can’t flash any light now.
I don’t remember but do I need to install atmel studio tu work?
I already installer MHR AVR tools.
I have win7 32 bit on the laptop and win10 on the PC. either I got working is fine for me.
Thank you!
This one works for me:
http://stefanfrings.de/avr_tools/avrdude-6.3-mingw32.zip
No, just unpack avrdude.exe into a file and run it from the folder you extracted it to.
Alright I’m a bit lost here with my SOIC-8 clip. I’m trying to flash an Attiny 85. My SOIC-8 Clip just has an 8-pin connector. I’m assuming I need to replace that with a 10-pin corrector to match the USBasp connecter right? How else would I get MISO and MOSI? If yes, how do I open these connectors? Seems impossible to me.
Nooooo…You only run 6 wires from the usb programmer (10 pins) to the clip (8 pins) and they do not directly correspond to up/down or left/right.
Carefully try to follow the diagram from here:
or here:
I’m on mobile so you get the short version.
Pin 1 is the one with the dot on the corner and the red cable at the clip.
Start at Pin1 and search the other connections between the Programmer and the Tiny.
You need VCC, GND, MISO, MOSI, SCK and RST
I don’t have single wires to plug. My SOIC-8 clip is soldered to an 8-pin IDC connector with ribbon wire. 
Like this http://www.bios-chip24.com/Programmier-Adapter-SOIC8-Clip-In-Circuit-Programmierung
I found that set up to be too tricky for me… Though others have managed to make it work. my feeble mind quickly got lost in all the same color wires. and you will have to not use four of them, but I cannot tell you which four not to use or how to hook them up on the USB programmer.
it might be worth the money and headache to get some colored cables and unsolder the gray ones from the clip and then solder the colored ones on to the clip to correspond to the pictures.
This is exactly my problem. It is SO hard to not lose the overview and constantly think from the female and male connector perspective. I’m just done with pretinning the cut up 10-pin wire…now I need a cigarette first. 
More pics
and this person made your setup work…grey cable
I did do it the other way around. I soldered on the clip and left the 10-pin connector untouched. I’ll go over it one more time, but I’m pretty positive I got it correct.
See here: 
Red cable is Pin 1.
For my first flash, I did something like this for my D4S:
pretty tedious placing six loose fitting wires into six holes while trying not to pull the others out while twisting them around…
but I got a successful Anduril flash on my DS4! Woot!
Ordered a bare clip to try and flash my Q8 now that I am an “expert”…ha!
It actually worked. Can’t beat the feeling of succeeding with something you have absolutely no clue of. AVRdude says I got anduril on my D1.
Got to put that thing together quick. I only trust this, if I see it with my own eyes.
Edit: And the light is up and running! :sunglasses: :+1:
Depends on how your discrete/stepped ramp is configured.
The 1x7135 brightness is ramp level 65 of 150.
This script can calculate which levels the stepped ramp should use for any configuration. For example:
> ./steps.py 10 120 7
1: 10
2: 28
3: 46
4: 65
5: 83
6: 101
7: 120
That’s what I meant. Thanks :sunglasses: :+1:
I put Anduril on my D4 and it’s awesome, but sometimes it just flashes when I press or press/hold the button.
The light didn’t do this before and I’ve tried very firm presses to eliminate the switch as the culprit.
Does it with different batteries, fully charged, slightly discharged.
More often does it if I haven’t used the light for a while.
I grabbed the FW out of the index of/torches/fsm. There are a few versions of the FW listed there, were there design changes to the D4 that these different versions address?
Even if there’s no fix it’s staying on, only a minor inconvenience.
My wife and I go to sleep to candle or sunset, thanks for all the fun stuff you’ve included!
Only problem is now I have to figure out how to put it on all my lights.
Bonus: now I don’t agonize over the FW3A. Main interest in that was the firmware. I’m still in but I’ve got my Anduril fix.
That’s very strange. You mean, it flashes in the same was as when you first insert a battery? If so, that would indicate that the MCU is rebooting. There could be a short or something loose/exposed inside, or there could be a firmware bug.
I haven’t encountered that behavior, and no one else has mentioned anything like it, so I’m guessing it’s more likely to be a physical issue instead of a bug. However, that’s not certain.
What configuration values are you using?
I just grabbed the hex file for the D4 from toykeeper.net and flashed it.
Yes, it just does a battery flash. Happens on quick click or hold for low.
Battery connection is good, runs turbo no problem.
Doesn’t do it all the time, but sometimes if I haven’t been using the light it will do 2 in a row.
I’ve tried to recreate it by doing a “weak” click, this switch seems very well made because I can’t trick it. I’ve had other lights where if you went at it slightly off-axis it wouldn’t register the click but not the Emisar.
I will make sure I’m running the release from 8/22/18.
It wouldn’t surprise me if I screwed something up. This was my first attempt and I was giddy with excitement.
I’ve already got it on another driver that I’m putting in a cute little Sunwayman C10R.