Yes, it’s the ubiquitous 105D-like driver made for Convoy. It is not a Nanjg 105D. I ripped the driver out of the S2+ Desert Tan. Does this timing issue affect the Ramping UI, too? How about the Bistro HD for the ATTiny13A, will it work without this problem?
I think any firmware relying on the memory decay trick we use to detect short presses will have the issue. That covers Babka, my ramping UI, Biscotti, Crescendo, etc. They’ll work, it just seems to take the driver a longer time to recognize a short press.
You can train your mind to get used to it if you want. I’m sure it’s just a resistor or the capacitor that’s the difference, but I’ve been too lazy to try swapping them out. Since you can get 105C’s for like $2.50 I usually just keep a bunch on hand and use those.
For those struggling with unsigned USBasp drivers on windows 10 here is solution:
https://rayshobby.net/dead-simple-driver-installation-for-usbasp-and-usbtiny-on-windows/
Today I tried again to do some flashing. On a different driver than before because my sharp-enough knife has not arrived yet.
This time the patient was Q8.
I really like how I can access the MCU w/out unsoldering the leads.
After clipping the MCU and connecting to the PC I see the switch LED light up.
But again there’s
I re-clipped a couple of times. I tried the other orientation, the LED wouldn’t light up. Suggestions?
Checking connections for the 7th time I noticed I got wires 5 and 6 (reset and ground) reversed. Changed that. The switch doesn’t light up now. USBASP gives me the same error as before/ 
A Q8 should flash easily if the wiring is correct and the clip is physically connected. The sck period thing doesn’t matter, but the “target doesn’t answer” thing is important.
If it helps at all… here’s the expected wiring. MCU pin 1 goes on the side with only 2 wires. Also be sure to check if the usbasp wiring might be upside-down.
I tried upside down already.
And use another USBASP (I got 2, from FT).
And tried another ribbon.
I took a DMM and measured the clip - there are connections where they should be and no shorts.
Removed all the wires, rewired based on your picture just in case I persistently do something wrong; having a different reference reduces chance of repeating error. Twice. Still nothing.
Since the button lightened up with incorrect connection, clip successfully connects at least some pins.
I did visual inspection, it seems to sit on the MCU properly.
I have an issue with programming attiny13 when 7135 is connected to pb0 (pin 5). Unsoldering connection before firmware upload helped.
If the wiring is correct clean the contacts carefully on the clip and on the chip itself. On one clip I have if I connect the clip to the chip 180 degrees out the light will turn off on the USBASP. Some 7135 drivers I have had to remove the chip itself to flash.
Thanks.
I’ll try the contact cleaner later.
Frankly, my main suspicion at this point is the cheap SOIC clip. Eq-equo with some stupid error on my side.
Can anyone confirm or deny the need to unsolder 7135 to flash a Q8?…
The Q8 should not need anything soldered to flash it. Removing two screws is enough, on every unit I’ve heard about. If it’s not working, it’s almost certainly due to some sort of physical issue like pins not being connected to the right places.
In my picture above, the usbasp is shown upside-down to make the connections easier to see. When the usbasp is right-side-up, the connected pins should be:
6 7 1 - 5
4 - - - 8
Haven’t read any of the posts in this thread, just the OP, will catch up while I’m waiting for hardware to arrive.
I’ve avoided getting into this aspect of the hobby, told myself it would be too expensive or beyond my abilities.
It’s impossible to stay away any longer, I have too many lights that would be useful and fantastic were it not for their UI.
Yes, this is a total 1st world problem, but from what I’ve seen not only is it not expensive but smarter people have collected and posted links to tutorials and hardware that take all of the guesswork out of it.
Thanks to Hoop and all who’ve contributed!
Re-checked the wiring again. Applied the contact cleaner. It probably lubricates the contacts as now the clip slips off the chip.
Tried holding it against the chip, got the same error.
Can anyone please check my wiring please?…I’d like to make sure this is not the problem…
It doesn’t work for me either and I’ve concluded that it probably is the clip that sucks and doesn’t make contact. It looks very similar to yours. I tried to measure continuity from the lead to the MCU leg and I get nothing, though lead to clip contact surface is fine.
Not so keen on coughing up money for another clip. Still thinking about how to proceed…
It’s hard to see in those photos, but the white and grey wire on your clip look very close together. Are you sure they are not shorted?
Yeah, I hate clips. I don’t use them anymore.
The Pomona clip in Hoops guide seems to work the best for me. Its not perfect but is better than the other clip I tried.
Yes, I’m sure they are not shorted. Some distances between wires are smaller than I’d like, but not short enough to make me re-solder them. 
The photo angle doesn’t do them justice. The closest distance is black-white really.
Well, to be honest your photos are crap in terms of checking wiring connections. You are using a flat ribbon cable between clip wires and USBASP. Who knows how you have connected things on the USBASP side, it’s not possible to verify your wiring connections with those photos. Get rid of that flat ribbon cable and connect wires directly into the USBASP like the photo below, then checking that the wiring is correct will be much easier:
If you are using that flat cable because you don’t have female connectors on the wires, then get something like this from somewhere: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1011800
The clip is fine. It works perfectly for what you want to achieve. To make it work, your cables must be good and the wiring connections are correct as clearly illustrated and explained in this thread.
Bad wires/wrong wiring or a defective USBASP programmer is normally the culprit.