Haikelight MT03 II modding (driver)

This -52 Material is an iron powder mixed with a formula of resin , and should be the less expensive of all ! You do NOT need expensive ferrite because we work here with relatively low frequency so the permeability has to be low , around 75 (50-100).

I strongly recommend this one because I tried to use in dc-dc converters ALL kind of toroids , red , yellow , gray , blue , black , white ..., and the green-blue was the only one that worked !!!...

Here you have some info about , look on page 2 :ipc4spsi.pdf

If you found them, doesn't matter where, take them , nobody are faking such cheap things ( BTW , I found an old bill from TME , and the cost for one core T130-52 was , translated in euros ,about 50 cents...

Of course is cool to DIY , there is room to play with the turns number , diameter of wire , and the cores can be placed in parallel ( side by side ,and wired together , for a bigger power )...

And WOW , for the diodes 0.16 V !!!...I have to order myself some , to see how they perform... Happy for you , step by step , one step closer to the dream... ( ha,ha , this just came in my mind , is something from the band "YES" -"Close to the Edge"...)

O, i see, i thought that 52 stuff made them expensive.

Just found these on AE:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Iron-core-inductor-80-52/1459305_32479334293.html

Seems legit, and not expensive.
(edit) but too big…

Okay, so let me get this straight.
The 52 material is the best stuff for the job.
I assume we need a minimum size ring to do the job.
But there’s also a maximum size that will fit in the HT03.
I found this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/5pcs-15mm-22UH-8A-1-0-Line-6052-Blue-green-ring-Annular-inductance-Magnetic-ring-inductors/1940526_32805180616.html

Hurray ! These 22uH /8A are the right stuff ! To obtain 22uH from few turns means that the core is able to store a lot of energy.

As I said before , the biggest toroid that can fit in your driver is the best . An external diameter of 18...22 mm and a height of 6...10 mm should be enough !!!

I like these toroids that you found , the copper wire turns are machined made , are not overlapping (as it suppose to be !) . In a word ,go for its !!!

As a fact , few days ago I repaired and modded a hunting light for a friend ( UniqueFire uf-2220 ) ,with a driver , 16 mm , recovered from an old and obsolete UltraFire wf-501B (one of the cheapest light on market) , one mod . The original driver was doing less than 2 Amps , the inductor was something like the size of yours original ones in the HaikeLite , and on the test was becoming smelling hot ! Short , dedomed XM-L2 ,changed the inductor with a one that I made from a toroid , -52 material , external diameter =10 mm , height=5 mm , 20 turns with 0.6 mm copper wire , 5 minutes time ,soldered in place on top of the components , secured with thermal adhesive , resistor mod .., and I got 3.2 Amps to led , After 20 minutes in run , the inductor was just slightly warm ! So . from a toroid so small I got almost double of current and less heat ! Pleased , and once again , the 52 toroid saved the day...

And the price is right ! Looking to the photo , they seem to be around 20 mm diameter ( maybe more ?) and the wire 1.2...1.5 mm . Right? If so , you found the Holly Grail !

So, are you saying that with a better coil (and better FETs and diodes) the current will increase, without changing the sense resistor?
Or was your driver not regulated?

By the way, here’s the data sheet for that SPV1512N über Schottky:
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/389/spv1512-974148.pdf
They say it’s for photovoltaic purposes, but i want to know if it’s good for this driver.

Okay, coils, caps and R030 resistors ordered.
I will have to wait a month for those Schottky’s to restock. :frowning:

No , please read carefully what I said !...,Quote : " 5 minutes time ,soldered in place on top of the components , secured with thermal adhesive , resistor mod .., and I got 3.2 Amps to led , After 20 minutes in run , the inductor was just slightly warm ". As you can see , I said "resistor mod" !!!

I was looking on my papers ( I always write down what I'm doing , to be able to compare.., sometimes the memory is playing tricks (!) , and, for the driver I was talking about , was the following :

Original Driver : Led Current =1.85 A.

Inductor changed : Led Current =2.12 A(!). Same layout , diode was a SS54 , transistor 3400L , R limit=0.22.

Added a 0.22 resistor , parallel , Current=3.21 A !

You could ask why the current didn't double ? This is happening all the times , doesn't matter what driver you are modding . Is due to the resistance of the traces ,wires , Rds on of FET , all of these resistances will generate a bigger voltage drops on them...

It is logic that , in a system with a lower resistance in the load path to get higher currents.., a lot of people will say : " WTF, we are talking about constant current drivers..." , yes , is true , but WHICH is the start value of constant current ? This is the question that should be the ONE!

Please, do not think that I'm patronizing you , myself I'm learning every day , the things are changing so fast these days...So I'm giving you a link for a very simple explanation of buck drivers , go to page 2 , :Buck Converters

About the diodes that you ordered , those with 0.16 V drop , I think that they are going to work , your voltage in circuit is 8.4 V and this diode is working like this :

When the FET is in state ON, the diode is not existing in the circuit , because it is reversed biased ,the inductor is charging and limit the rush current thru LED.

When the FET is going in OFF state, the energy stored in inductor will go thru LED , thru diode ( that is gone be direct biased) ,back to inductor , in a loop.

If the inductor are able to store more energy , than the led could use , at the next state ON of FET , the current will not start to accumulate from zero , but from a value bigger than zero. This mode is called "continuous mode" , because the current is never going to zero, between the cicles ON-OFF.

So , the diode is seeing the maximum voltage from the LED ( in reverse bias) ,but the whole current that rushes thru circuit, in direct bias .Therefore , low Vf at big currents will be translated in low power loss in circuit.

Somehow, this thread seems to have only 2 players.., what is happening here , on BLF ,the people are not interested ,or just waiting to see the results ?

Wake up, Guys !!!!

I missed that, sorry.

Yeah, i’ve seen some traces that could use a little extra too.

No, i’m not thinking that at all.
I’m very thankful for your help.
I don’t understand everything, but i have learned a lot here. :+1:

Well, the topic is read 1353 times now, so i guess we’re doing something right. :slight_smile:

You are right , I didn't noticed the numbers of reading !!! After all , it seems to be a good job...

I haven't read every post, but I believe there are only 2 posters because cera@1967 appears to be on top of the situation. Cera certainly knows much more than me by leagues and leagues. The only advice I have has already been offered. I would clarify and suggest starting with a resistor mod to find the limits of the existing configuration. As I implied early, once mode compression starts, that is a sign you are near the limits of the stock driver. Then, start replacing stuff and seeing what the result is. You don't have to drive all 3 of its bucks. You can only test with one of the three.

I guess I can add one more suggestion. Those very budget buck converter chips (Marking includes a row that says "LEDA") are easy to fry. I have fried many of them playing with bucks. If a channel stops working, it is likely that is the fail point. So I recommend you get some on a slow ship going your way. Here is my best explanation of how these types of bucks work:

The excess voltage from the cells that is not used by the LED is absorbed into a magnetic field formed in the inductors. When the inductor can not absorb any more excess voltage, voltage across the Voltage Sense Resistor bank increases. Once a the voltage increases to a certain point (IIRC, 1.25V, not sure), the Buck Conveter closes the FET Gate. Once closed, the inductor (aka, free wheeling inductor) releases it's stored energy. This powers the LED while the cells are disconnected. When the voltage Voltage Sense Resistor Bank drops below the certain point, then the buck converter begins opening the FET Gate again. The amount of opening is controlled by voltage output from the Buck Converter to the FET gate. The PWM from the MCU is a big factor in how much voltage the Buck Converter sends to the Gate. So when the driveer is way below it's max capacity, the PWM is primary determiner of voltage output to the FET. is way I like to stop adding resistors just before mode compression starts.

This is an interesting thread and really am routing for you two.

EDIT: Fixed some typos.

I got to the point where I realized that is time to take a step back ! ...This is a HOBBY , and a hobby means PLEASURE ! If going deeper and deeper with the knowledge doesn't make you HAPPY anymore , just turn back to the point where you was happy , and give it a reset !

It is all about PLEASURE in doing something , that's why we are so different , and here is the BEAUTY of this world , the DIVERSITY ...

This Forum is a place where we can play , laugh , joke ,share , do everything that makes us feel cherished and understood, by others.But there are limits ,and I feel that I crossed that line , I apologize for that.., somehow, I feel that I monopolized this thread , and this is NOT in the best interest of ALL ... Was not in the spirit of this Forum , and I'm really sorry ,guys !...

More than 40 years ago , I was playing with the idea of became a doctor ,I liked the anatomy , biology,chemistry... I was good in first aid in almost any situation..,but , after I was admitted to the University , in the first year , I realized that , deeper I was going with learning , less happy I was , and I stop liking being a doctor... I moved to something else , Applied Electronics , and here I am today, happy, but not wiser .., do you see the parallel of this ? It seems that I forgot that lesson...

ImA4Wheeler , thanks for your kind words , but it seems that I forgot my place and carried by the wave, I forgot to be humble !...Sorry, again...

Hey, don’t worry about it, Adrian. :+1:
Again, i really appreciate your input and enthusiasm. :+1:
In my opinion you are right in your place here.

About wisdom: True wisdom is the knowledge of God.
(but i bet a lot of people would disagree with or dismiss that statement)

Back on topic:
Those über Schottky’s i found on RS online (NL) i can not buy, because i’m not a company with registration number… :weary:
I will try to find someone who can purchase from that store in name of a company, but maybe i’ll just get the 80SQ045 in stead.

[EDIT] Found some STPS10L25D Schottky’s on ebay, i will order those. [/EDIT]

[EDIT2] found some SPTS20L15 Schottky’s on ebay, Vf = 0.25 V i will order those instead. :slight_smile: [/EDIT2]

[EDIT3] …and then i found those A LOT cheaper on AE https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-10pcs-lot-STPS20L15-STPS20L15D-new-original/32599835971.html [/EDIT3]

For the rest i have to wait until it arrives

I will start with replacing the coils when i have them, because the stock coils are the main bottleneck.

Where can i get those?
When i google “LEDA1624” i find this topic… :person_facepalming:

[EDIT] It seems those LEDA chips are “XQ9920” a constant current driver IC.
LEDA is a (the?) manufacturer and the numbers are apparently a date code (1624 would be week 24 2016) [/EDIT]

[EDIT2] i mean QX9920 [/EDIT]

Looks like the letters were transposed. Should be QX9920. By far the most common buck converter used in flashlight drivers. So good to keep on hand anyway. Here is a query for free shipping:

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-QX9920.html?spm=2114.01010208.0.0.JJh7m2&site=glo&groupsort=1&SearchText=QX9920&g=y&SortType=price_asc&initiative_id=SB_20170424113119&needQuery=n&isFreeShip=y

Hey cera@1967,

I'm with Jerommel. Please keep up the great work. It's very interesting stuff.

Looks like i misspelled something again, like i just realised this light is MT03, not HT03… (i already edited the title…)
I searched for the correct ones (QX9920) and found them on AE for cheap.
I just ordered some, along with those Schottky’s.

Oh , ...so the gang is bigger now ! O.k , ImA4Wheeler , you asked for it...

For Jerommel : the diodes you found are good , how about fitting in the space ? The power loss in diode will be at a max. 1.25W so about a 3 % of total power on a led

Not bad at all !!! At this power dissipated, the self heating of the diodes will NOT be a problem ! I don't want to be in your shoes , with all this waiting for the stuff to arrive...Do not discourage , ImA4Weeler and me standing by , " you can lean the head on..." our shoulders ...

For ImA4Wheeler : I read with a real interest your explanation about how a buck converter works. I'll PM you...if you don't mind !

^

Of course. If I screwed up the explanation, its ok to say so here. It's just my way of trying to picture it in a mechanical sense what is happening. I have limited electronics understanding and won't be surprised if I got some stuff wrong. I prefer the record have it straight for others to understand too.

I can cut off the cooling tab and (of course) shorten the legs.
It will still be a challenge, but that’s part of the fun of this.

@ ImA4Wheeler

I've just PM you.., don't worry ... And I do have to admit that your open mind and modesty made me think twice.., I'm taking my hat off !

@ Jerommel

BTW , how deep is the space between led shelves and the driver ? Just to have an idea how "crowded" it will be !...

The space is 44mm in diameter and 14mm high…
I will lose some hight when i put in a thick shelf, but i can gain some height with a spacer under the driver PCB.
Yes, it’s tight…