Anti-reflective coatings have either a yellow, blue, green or purple hue. These are generally seen when viewing off-center. I wonder if this is what you are seeing and if it is I would take it as a positive. I’ll take a look at mine when I get home but recall it looking pretty clear when looking directly down at the LED.
I have tried to put together what I have measured from my two HaikeLite lights that I received before Christmas,
DHL-shipment.
Both the MT03 Devourer and the MT07 Buffalo are 4S-configuration.
(I am reading the correct values out of each battery-pack, 16 +/- volt).
(I also got the 18650GA, 8-batteries, that was offered with the purchase, and they arrived safely.)
I have used some «known» lights, doing ceiling-bounce (over 1 meter), to build up a possible reference-background
making a conversion factor of around 28. (This is NOT a calibrated value.) Hope I am in the «ball-park» with my numbers!!??
I have used a digital lux-meter, model LX1010B, for my measurements.
When I did the first test, Low mode was flickering /drifting from 279 to 305 and back to 297 before it settled.
(You could really see the lights was flickering looking at it.)
During the next test the light went straight to 297. I guess that the light/leds was´t warmed up enough the first time??
Talking about color, to my eye the MT03 is a little more white than the Olight X7.
Overall comments:
I like both lights very much.
Together, with HaikeLite and Alva’s team, I hope we can find out, and get some answers,
whatever happened and how to solve the issues.
I hope others can come up with some good numbers how their lights work.
I’d be happy if mine were anywhere near what they claimed, but less than half of the claimed (and tested by other members) isn’t acceptable. I contacted Haikelite and got a reply, so I’m seeing what they’re gonna to make things right.
I’d be happy if mine were anywhere near what they claimed, but less than half of the claimed (and tested by other members) isn’t acceptable. I contacted Haikelite and got a reply, so I’m seeing what they’re gonna to make things right.
Hi,
I ordered an MT03 NW with banggood (with coupon code) on Dec 22nd 2016 and it was delivered to Germany on Jan 3rd 2016 with Priority Shipment… ultra fast IMHO for an “over the holidays” order… I expected an 8 weeks wait minimum!
Received a 2P2S version (what I hoped for) and everything is fine so far. One issue with QC: I put the light on my tripod to do some lux measurements and the whole metal tripod screw thread fell out as I tried to tighten the screw of my tripod contact plate. Used some super glue to fix. No biggie.
Used a cheap lux meter and measured 21.100 Lux at 1 meter distance with two fully loaded Samsung 25R high drain cells.
Fun fact: the light is slightly brighter with only TWO cells installed in series compared to 4 cell configuration!
I’ve received my MT07 CW 4S version yesterday. The built quality and the reflector is quite impressive. However the assembly work is done badly. The mode/on-off switch was not assembled properly and the whole switch was slant towards on side. This is easily fixed by removing all the screws on the silver plate that secure the switch and reassemble the switch. Beside that, I am not able to unscrew the head from the battery tube no matter how hard I try……Other than these 2 issues, the flashlight work fine with my Sanyo 18650GA cells.
I did a ceiling bounce test and used my cellphone light meter app to compare the brightness of my MT07 with Meteor M43 which is rated 7450 lumens.
M43 @ 1 sec 967.00 lx
MT07 @ 1 sec 680.00 lx (0.7x of M43)
MT07 @ 30 sec 534.00 lx (0.55x of M43)
MT07 @ 60 sec 491.00 lx (0.5x of M43)
MT07 @ 75 sec 482.00 lx (0.49x of M43)
The output of MT07 started at 680.00 lx and it dropped down immediately at a constant pace and stabilized at 482.00 lx at around 70th to 75th sec.
If my meteor M43 factory rated lumens is correct, and comparing it’s lux reading with MT07’s lux reading. My MT07 does produce around 5000 lm at 1st second, but the output dives down to around 4000 lms at 30th sec and stabilized at around 3600 lm at 75th sec.
I know this is not a good and accurate way of measuring the lumen as some forum members had mentioned…. But anyway, this is what i can do with my limited knowledge and equipment.
The MT 07 does throw very well, the built is good and the design look unique. I still need to find out how to unscrew the battery tube from the head.
Hi Arufonsi. All my modes seem adequately separated.
Hi Kusie. Just unscrew the battery tube from the head. You will see a silver colored plate with small 2 Philips head screws. Just remove them and you will have assess to top battery plate.
I took a measurement using an integrated sphere. I will try to take a measurement like you mention before I start working on the light.
Yeah I know. I have the neutral white version while maukka got the CW version directly from Haikelite.
It´s normal for the CW versions to have around 10% more lumens/lux than the NW version. But 11.000 lumens and 40KCD… dunno how this is possible. I´m by no means trying to say that someone is cheating, it´s just that I don´t know anything about the exact setup , instruments used, conditions etc. used to measure this. Heck, maybe the free review lights had different drivers/setup and the production light where changed later on to lower specs to avoid overheating?!? Who knows. But 2 other neutral white MT03s from people I know where measured around 17-20 Klux with a lux meter and around 8.200 lumens in a professional Ulbricht sphere, so my sample fits pretty good into those measurements. But maybe we all got lemons and we should expect 11.000 lumens and 40 KCD? Without directly comparing the lights in question we´ll never know.
You really don't need 2 screws. It was common seeing one screw. One screw simply keeps the MCPCB from twisting when tightening up the bezel. I left the one screw in my MT07 and it did bout 4,700 lumens stock, now doing bout 5,300 lumens with a resistor mod. Some even believe 2 screws is worse than no screws or 1 screw, in that they can cause the MCPCB to flex up in the center, worsening thermal contact of the MCPCB. comfy brought this up wayyy back.
For me, I'm not sure, it can debated though. There was a time I was securing all MCPCB's down with screws. I think there's variability from light to light. If you have a light with lots of downward pressure of the reflector on the alignment piece or MCPCB, the screws probably won't help much, and if not done right, could actually make it worse. If no pressure from the reflector, then they should help if done properly.
since MT03 in fact does have 3xXHP70 capable of more than 10k lumen
and 2x18650 GA should be able to deliver needed current - the reasons why a MT03 is not delivering 10k lumen would be a driver limitation or other resistance in the circuit (such as wires or contacts)
and depending on the driver used shouldn’t we be able to increase the current by changing a FET or linear regulator or whatever is on the driver?
Yes it’s a hassle but we did get a reasonable discount on these lights.
Ideally haikelite should give us a hint how to modify the driver or offer modified drivers.
Dunno. I'm not clear on the under-performing units. I think the amps is truly lower, which could have a # of causes. If the manufacturer made an intentional or unintentional change, first I'd check the current sensing/limiting resistors. I don't have an MT03, but I have a good performing MT07, and I think my review has a picture of the resistors.
I would still recommend checking the MCPCB. The one screw can potentially cause most of the MCPCB to tilt, resulting in limited contact with the host. This can be caused by things like debris or poor assembly execution (wire pinched under the MCPCB while being screwed down that results in the MCPCB not being entirely flat, etc). I recommend checking this for all lights anyway.