The Ford stuff sounds like the paste used on engine based ECU components like older TFI units. It should work brilliantly.
Thanks Boaz - keep on meaning to order the NO-OX from IS, but can't make up my mind on the rest of the order... Too many tempting things, too much think'n. Really want that RRT-01 - great price on a great pocket light... one example
I just use the same Trident or Sea & Sea silicon grease I use for underwater orings. The grey reminds me to clean it.
I wondered for a long time what all the fuss about NyoGel was about, then I tried some. Compared to regular silicone grease or dielectric grease it does a much better job at smoothing out squeaky threads. Those of you who have a squeaky SRK or ZY-T08 know what I'm talking about! On lights without squeaky threads I can't tell much of a difference though.
Going back bout 1 1/2 years ago, I researched this quite a bit, and between BLF and CPF, there was a bunch of info, and the consensus seemed to be Nyogel was the best around at the time - for both threads and o-rings. Bought a tube from BatteryJunction then - pricey, but probably a lifetime supply. I still got over a 1/2 tube remaining, though I have another tube of the FORD Motorcraft labeled Nyogel I've used more.
Then as it is now, there are still those that have their favorites, but there always seem to be some unknown potential risk with others. Seemed like the most knowledgable posts indicated Nyogel was the best, no risks -- only reason why I went with it.
That NO-OX stuff though sure sounds impressive and ideal, and I've come across several recommendations.
Probably not the recommended product for the use but I put a drop of gun oil on the threads and wipe off the excess. Most of the time I only lube them if there's an issue so long as the threads are kept clean.
I use silicone grease on o-rings (even though the O-ring Store site says that nitrile is resistant to hydrocarbon oils). I use heat sink compound, silicone or not, on pill threads and Noalox, wet bicycle chain lubricant or Howard Feed-N-Wax furniture wax on tail cap treads and such. The chain lube is thin and good for cleaning. The furniture wax, which is carnauba wax, bee’s wax and orange oil, seems to reduce galling best on bare Al tail cap threads. I am just now trying Tree Wax carnauba floor wax, and it gives a very smooth feel. The waxes may be best for the pressure and slow infrequent motion.
I’ve been using White Marine Lithium Grease for years. Works in guns and flashlights threads. If the light gets a lot of outside use in rain or at the lake I think the grease helps with waterproofing. If feeling lazy I use a dab of synthetic motor oil.
Here is a cheap option for Nyogel … only a few left.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIELECTRIC-GREASE-INDIVIDUAL-ONE-SHOT-PACKS-QTY-20-/141238166869?vxp=mtr
Wouldn’t dielectric grease cut the current path through the threads?
I though electrical connectivity was kind-of important… (DQG Mini??)
I use silicone PTFE grease from my local automotive supplier 200ml tube costs me about $12 / £7
Where the fit is loose the grease fills the voids to seal.
Where the fit is tight, the pressure is sufficient to displace the grease and allow metal to metal contact. This will be true for any connection tight enough for basic reliable connection, light bulb sockets, relay pins, etc.
With a crimp and stranded wire the grease allows the strands to move during compression until all the grease is squeezed out and its a tight sealed metal to metal contact.
2g packets x20, but while handy in some ways, I would never be using a full packet, and the packets don’t reseal, so for me other than maybe putting a couple packets into several toolboxes, better to just get a tube with a seal.
I don’t know why good thin film lubricants don’t interfere with contact. Perhaps a one molecule thick layer does not prevent electrical contact. I had some intermittent behavior from the light I put floor wax on, but that is a solid. The Black Cat AAA I got from KaiDomain (KD) was intermittent until I scraped out something like LocTight from the threads between the head and body. (They gave me a partial refund with which I am happy. It now works, but with a scratch where I used pliers to unscrew it.) I do have Noalox but don’t know if it is really needed.
Pressure in the contact area may be much higher due to the very small area of contact, forcing metal to metal. No real guess on if a very thin layer remains, or what it might result in.
Finally, my ArmyTek Nyogel 760G has arrived from HKE. This is exactly what I am looking for.
5g version is only enough of a year supply for 3-4 flashlights. I bought 5g because I wanted to test it out first.
Think I am going to order the 25g version very soon 
Thank you guys for your recommendation.
I just lubed my TK61….and before i tried BTU Shocker and TK 75, its ultra smooth - silky. Nyogel is amazing.
i’ve tried every single greasing and lubricating product from bicycle industry and the closest one to the originaly used by zebralight on SC600 was DT Swiss ratchet grease which is extremely hard to wipe off unlike other greases that are designed for use in bearings, i will ask Zebralight CS (they always answered in the past) the sc600 originally came with some white grease and the one from DT Swiss is red…anyway i’d say any lubricant is better than no lubricant at all
Unless it erodes the O-rings
i asked Zebralight customer service what they use for lubricating threads of the flashlights in the factory and one hour later i already got an answer: We use NyoGel 760G
so i guess that solves this problem…