Because i do not want to cut a M6 thread for the thermocouple i ordered a new one with a straight 3x15mm end on ebay (http://www.ebay.de/itm/201609250550?\_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT).
@sac02
the relay is the limiting part. If i get it right (not 100% clear on the picture) there is this one on the PCB
And if thats the relay the 20W is absolutly no problem!
Damn guys now I want go make one too despite that I don’t need one :D.
As I like to do things a bit differently I would like to add a pid controller. They can be bought for 15 bucks so not expensive and they supposed to be able to controll the temperature perfectly.
I was thinking about using a pc heatsink (you know, those standard small ones) with a fan underneath it to cool it down quickly.
A PID Controller would be way more precise. But i can not find one that uses a thermocouple and that is not so big. They are build for Industrial use. To get one that you normaly build in a electrical cabinet is not a problem and you can get them cheap but they are way to big (100-240V 40A Digital PID Temperaturregler SSR K Thermocouple Sensor Sale - Banggood Deutschland sold out-arrival notice-arrival notice).
@thijsco19
If you want to do things a bit differently and if you want to put the icing on the cake, get a arduino then buy a thermocouple like this (10 Best K-Type Thermocouples For Arduino) and then get a MOSFET Driver Module For Arduino like this (Mosfet-Tubenfahrer Modul für arduino scm Armhimbeerenpi sold out-arrival notice-arrival notice).
Now you are not only capable of controlling the temp very precise you are also capable of using real reflow temp profiles. With preheat phase . . .
And if you want to switch on a fan to cool down the block faster after reaching the max temp you can use a module like this (1 Kanal 12V Level Trigger Optokoppler Relaismodul Sale - Banggood Deutschland-arrival notice-arrival notice).
All relativly cheap stuff. And you can find working code for the Arduino on the net (with a few adjustments). Many people use setups like this to mod a Pizza stofe into a Reflow oven. And most of them are sharing ther code and knowledge.
A micro controlled heat plat would be the optimum, for sure. Unfortunately, I am not yet into micro controller programming.
What quantities are needed to find a manufacturer for such a device? If 100 would be enought, there is certainly enough interest here. I’d say anything up to 30 $ shipped would be okay.
you start adding up a few parts here, a few parts there… next thing you know, you might as well just have bought the BUDGET variable power supply… I figure i always wanted a variable power supply, might as well get THAT, and use it to control this heater core.
its real reasonable in the other thread on the power supply…
Would a PTC heater like this work with the temperature controller that was linked before? Maybe I try this as well and see whether it is better than the soldering pot…
The 2 point temp regulator can handle the 300W heater but i do not think that it would work nicely. To much heating power. The temp overshot could be huge.
If you want to use this heater i would try a SCR Voltage Regulator something like this (2000W Drehzahlregler SCR Spannungsregler Dimmdimmer Thermostat Sale - Banggood Deutschland sold out-arrival notice-arrival notice) pared with a k-type thermometer for ~5 bucks.
Thanks for your comments, sedstar and TheOnlyDocc.
So I will better save the money and try the solder pot first, which already has a voltage regulator.
Cool stuff. Do you think an un heated pad adjacent to the block for cooling down the lends without shutting off the heat block a good idea? I use a torch and strip of aluminum which has raided edges so I can slide the pcb without danger of sliding it right tothe floor.
@Rufusbduck
I had the same idea. At the moment i am trimming down a old heatsink. I am cutting away the aluminium at the white marked spots on the pictures. But without a Drillpress or any big machinery it is a pain in the ass. Especially the point where heating and cool plate meet. I have to rasp a 1cm deep and 8cm long groove in the block. I hope that this will help reducing the heat transfer between the hot and cold side.
Thank you very much Djozz, this is my version :
nice…
4 total?
all series?
all parallel?
2s2p?
I think I see two in parallel, nice build!
Yes, 2 in parallel, 10 minutes for heating up. Thank you.
Ok, first off thanks to Djozz, mrheosuper and sac02 for pushing this idea forward. I hope no one minds if I post my build in this thread.
I showed a co-worker the pics from this thread and asked if he could help me build something similar in an all aluminum design. I wanted two plates that could be taken apart to replace the elements when needed. Within a couple of hours he came back with the unpainted version of this.
I decided to place the elements on opposite sides to hopefully distribute the heat evenly across the plate.
We drilled the holes a little large so I had to use copious amounts of Arctic Silver to fill the gap. I may epoxy the elements in later.
I tried wiring parallel at first but because the power supply I am using can only provide 2.5 amps to each element it wouldn’t get above 130 C even after an hour. So I wired them in series and jacked up the voltage.
So at 11 volts, 3 amps to each element it is close to the rated wattage. It took about 20 minutes to reach 200 degrees C on the side and I put a noctigon on to try. In a few seconds the solder paste sucked into the lanes and I was able to mount an XPG sucessfully!
Unfortunately, the mounting plates and base got very hot. The base was over 100 degrees C. I made washers from exhaust manifold gasket material which lowered the temperature some but still not acceptable. I’m going to try to double the gaskets on Monday to see if that helps.
It doesn’t look like the strain relief/sleeve tubing is fixed into the block. Will the wires weaken there?
i think you should put something between the block and the alumium standing
20’ to reach 200*C is too long for me
As noticed in the OP as well, I was surprised how well iron and even wood conduct heat as long as the temperature difference is high enough 