Fujik is still pretty easy to remove. It is like silicone or caulk. It doesn't get rock hard like Arctic Alumina which is an epoxy.
International Outdoor still has the 2,8 amp 105C which has a "higher" low than the new KD driver. If you want to run it for longer times at full power and not just use it for turbo... I would choose something different than a P60 host. C8 comes to mind as the empty pills are available separately. The C8 has the advantage that it has no air pockets in the thermal path, which have to be filled with aluminum or copper foil. And if your first steps aren't successful you can always buy the prebuilt dropin (105C 3-mode)
I decided Ill just make 1 to start with, one of the following combos.
1:
XM-L T6 on 14mm star - $6.95
Drop in w/o emitter - $2.76
Driver $4.79
Total US$14.50
Or
2:
XM-L U2 Drop-in (crap driver) - $11.78
Driver $4.79
Total US$16.57
By the time I buy thermal paste ($2.30) for the first one its going to cost nearly the same anyway. But Ill get more than 1 use out of the paste so I didn't add it.
Would anyone recommend one over the other?
Well I just went and bought the U2 drop-in and the driver.
Looked at the order and it says "Status: Back ordered"
Even though both items say shipped in 1-3 days.
Ill probably just wait until Friday and buy the other stuff to make the T6 ones and get the Intl-outdoor driver so I don't have to wait for anything from KD.
If it said it wasn't in stock I wouldn't have bought them.
everything is back ordered on KD.... doesn't mean anything... could be shipped tomorrow or in 5 years.
Ah thanks, its my first time buying from KD.
I worried about spending $6 for a tube of Fujik, but I've used that stuff like crazy.
Ditto but got it recently.
I might also add, that Fujik is not TOO hard to remove... Maybe a bit too strict comment from me above there.
One thing I bought a while ago, which I paid too much was the NyoGel lube (CPF influence...). Been using alot but makes terrible **** to threads if they are un-anodized...
I would of brought the famous ultrafire 3 mode drop in for $16 bucks shipped
I already have had one for 2+ months in my L2. (my first LED flashlight)
Its good but I want to make some brighter ones, and I would prefer L>M>H instead of H>M>L.
Bought the 2nd one 3-4 days ago, bought 1st one today. Also bought the FUJIK thermal glue.
The XM-L U2 and driver are already marked as posted.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results between the 2 of them.
Does anyone know what size AWG wire should be used to connect the emitter to the driver?
I use 22 awg if I can.
I'd be curious to hear what size wire is recommended as well. Also, look forward to seeing the comparison between ezarc's two configs.
-Garry
Thanks JonnyC
A year ago I wouldn't of even thought about doing anything like this.
But, I am so fed up with low frequency PWM used in 99% of P60 drop-ins that I've just ordered everything I need to make 5x P60 drop-ins.
The KD 8x7135 driver looks fantastic, current controlled modes, low voltage warning, programmable AND moonlight mode for $4.72! On paper this driver looks incredible!
Why manufacturers place such crappy drivers in their drop-ins, I don't know. Especially when the KD 8x7135 can be bought for so little!
It's a shame there are no budget 3xAA P60 hosts. One could build a mighty bright and decent AA powered light with this driver which would be great to give as a gift. All I can think of is the Javelin, which at $37.80 (including the extender) isn't too cheap. I will be fitting one of these drivers to my Javelin to see how it fairs.
Are there any other emitters that I should be looking out for other than those already mentioned? XM-L neutral tint seems to be hard to find for a decent price :(
No problem, and just for the record, 22 AWG is usually overkill. The wire I used is rated to 10 amps, so realistically with an XML you can use much smaller wire. But if the wire fits, why not use the biggest you can.
Yeah, the 7135 boards really are great. The programmability aspect of the ones with the Attiny13 microcontrollers are great. And I would think most of the lights with crappy PWM could actually be programmed to have a much faster PWM without any other hardware, but the manufacturers stick with crappy PWM.
The drivers usually come with wires and I use those, but for XM-L lights you will probably benefit from something more substantial. The good thing is these are pretty short wires, so there isn't that much resistance. I've scrounged some decent telephone wire and used that.
Thank our own brted. He's done a wonderful job there.
Thanks Ted!
Keep up the good work.
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1302
Neutral XM-L T6 for $9.50
I'm still on the look out for a reasonably cheap neutral U2, if not Ill probably try one of the ones I just linked to.