Can't recall exact models or where bought, but I think the Warsun's improved on the terrible blocking black LED alignment piece to a standard white one in one upgrade, then this CT9T is the 2nd upgrade. Upgrades like this from China makers is usually poorly announced, described, identified.
For me I generally prefer no tail switch on these, because my custom firmware has a lock-out feature anyway, also it usually can save on length if done right, and power doesn't have to pass thru a switch. Also much prefer complete UI control from the side switch - really don't like lights that have to change modes on the side, turn off power on the tail.
Thanks for your detailed review and nice pics! Hooked me a lot really. Are you a sponsored reviewer or you just reviewed all of them when you were working on them?
I am also looking for a replacement of my Nitecore MH20 as I am giving it to my friend as a gift. Any recommendation from Warsun? Thanks!
The author of the OP of this thread hasn't been on in 4 months, so you won't be getting a response from him. It's been 20 months since this was posted. I believe at the time, he paid for the set of lights, but at a reduced price, or got them free to review - not sure, it may be mentioned above somewhere. Definitely gray area whether to consider him sponsored or not.
"Sponsored" is certainly a negative term. Most reviews done here on lights are done in an independent manner, if given to the reviewer or not. Sometimes even a totally independent review where the reviewer paid full retail will be slanted, because the reviewer needs to justify their purchase. It goes both ways.
Unfortunately with this review, there wasn't any output measurements conducted, so some of the poor design elements were not revealed, like the black blocking LED alignment pieces used - new models got rid of this and perform better.
Looks like slight variations in reflector size - boy, seems like a waste to design lights that are sooo close in size, I don't get it.
Note: The BLF A6 17 DD is for power switch only lights. If installed in a Warsun, the side switch will be unused. You would need an e-switch or momentary driver to utilize the side switch. For the new CT9T that has no power switch, it wouldn't work at all.
"BLF A6" is the firmware identifier, not the board, on that MtnE page. By "clicky" he means power tailswitch. You can order that board though with "Electronic Switch" firmware -- that's what will work well with this Warsun, then yes - solder pin #2 to the switch, not ground. Actually one side of the switch must be ground, the other side must be wired to pin #2.
I believe all the Warsuns use driver mounted switches, so you need to piggyback in the MTN-17DDm driver - I've done a ton of these type of lights, like the Yezl Y3's for example.... Ugh - can be a lot of work. What I do is strip all components off the stock driver, then fit in and wire up the new driver - can be tight in space, all depends...
Hi guys, been reading a lot here lately but now I took the time to register to get some insight on this issue I have - I have ordered a new Warsun X60 on ebay and I recieved a ET26 instead.
Now, this wouldn’t be a HUGE issue, as they look pretty much identical and I don’t care about the mobile charging thing anyway, but I have other issue with it.
I am now looking at the LED and it seems VERY VERY small. It’s visibly smaller than on my cheap Ultrafire XML-T6.
Measured the current at the tail and I get only 800 mA compared to the Ulrafire T6 which has 1000 mA sharp.
Both measurements were made using multiple fully-charged 18650 batteries I have lying around harvested from old laptop batteries ( several Samsungs and Sony ).
Tried both torches outside tonight. It is a bit foggy, but I could tell the Warsun threw further than the Ultrafire on tight zoom. Also the light output is more blueish on the Ultrafire and this is more of a warmer/natural white.
I used the Ultrafire on my bike so wide performance is important. Here the Warson loses to the Ultrafire ( when used on the wide setting of course ).
Anyway all in all, I am not very happy with purchase because I have a feeling something is not right with that tiny bulb in there ( maybe the seller swapped the original ?? ).
Not to mention they sent me a wrong plastic tube - this is a lot bigger than the 18650 - won’t fit in the torch and looks like
What the hell did I receive ?
Wow - that's the size of an XP-G or XP-E I'd think, and then on top of that, might be a fake XP-G. Dunno bout the amps measurements - standard DMM leads are bad - will always read low, and some cheap DMM's can't read high amps as well (read lower). We use home made 12-14 AWG wires for the leads.
I'd check out the fake CREE LED thread - compare the pics. All Warsun's I know of came with XM-L2's -- yours is XP-G or XP-E old generation, and may be a fake (copycat of a CREE). There's no LED centering piece? The reflector just sits on the star (MCPCB) directly? All Warsun's come with a centering piece, of some sorts.
Id' say you did not get what you thought you paid for with that LED. Should be an easy PP claim for full refund - false advertising, not getting what ordered, etc.
Thanks for the answer - the reflector sits just above the star when I screw it completely - I could estimate somewhere around 3-4 mm above it.
I will probably ask for a refund or for the seller to actually send me what I paid for.
I really wish someone with a ET26 was here, I would really love to see some photos of the LED…
Post #93 updated... I don't have one now but I've worked on them. The originals had this large black snap-in centering piece. Looks like they took it out and left the gap instead. That LED is no where near what it should be, XM-L2, and you really will lose lumens positioned like that, but the LED won't produce near the lumens of an XM-L2 as well.
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