I haven't built one yet so I have no experience with it.
Ah, so its not complicated drilling, so if one so wished, one could buy the mod kit sans host and drill the host oneself? Though I thought that the individual optics plugged-on over the emitter substrates.
Also, would this be using a single unitized optic, or three individual units? And would the mcpcb’s and optics be available separately?
I was curious when you would have a stock, and how well they performed.
•Convoy S2+ 18350 Hosts
I cant seem to find them on the site. Maybe a link would help my old eyes…. :nerd_face:
Thanks
I can't either! 
Hang tight, they'll be here soon.
Look in DBCstm’s Intl-Outdoors 32mm Noctigon 4x XP-G thread for more details on building the X6 with 35mm Ledil Cute optics. Information is spread out throughout the thread IIRC.
Ok thanks!!! I like small lights and I think that might almost could be perfect I have been carrying the 602c host for a long time now and its still awesome in my eyes. Would like to see how this one feels.
Hi Richard
I placed my first order with you recently and it was great to see such a quick delivery to Oz compared to China. So thanks very much to you and you team.
I got 3 x BLF17DD boards and an SRK FET board to build my first FET drivers and some IRFR3711ZTRPBF mosfets.
Do you recommend 100ohms still for R3 or another value for the BLF17DD.
On the SRK the MCU drives the FET directly without R3 in series so a bit confused what to use with this actual FET.
Jamie
Richard, would you be willing to put together a 7135*8 single-mode driver (no MCU)? A friend of mine bought a C8 recently and he says he doesn’t like the modes. He just wants it to switch on and off. I’ve seen these on other sites, but they are all built with the 350mA 7135’s for only 2.8A output, and they still cost as much or more than your Qlite 3.04A driver that has all the modes.
It would be better to keep the mcu and just program it for one mode. Retain low voltage protection.
Okay, new question. Since I have no way to program it, can I buy it programmed for single mode operation? This is also not listed as an option on the site.
It’s listed. You order a QLITE and choose “Flash STAR FW ON-TIME memory (+$1.05)” in the Alternate Firmware menu. 
And pay more for the driver? Back to my first question(s), now. Can I get a driver without the MCU and what would be the price? I think it’s unreasonable to pay more for the privilege of getting less.
Why not just solder over the capacitor? That way the off-power for the MCU goes away instantly so you physically cannot click the button fast enough to change modes.
You’re asking for a custom built driver, yes that costs more, it takes time to build it just for you.
Be glad RMM even offers as many custom options as he does. Orders come in faster than he can build them at times. He could cut back on options.
I was under the impression that all of his drivers were hand-built by himself, so I consider them all “custom” in that regard. With that in mind, I figured it would save him time and money to just not solder the MCU and related components onto the board. I didn’t mean to be demanding or unreasonable. I’d like to hear from Richard himself about whether he would do it and what the cost would be. I guess I should have PM’d him, but I thought it would be good to post the question here, in case someone else might be interested in the same thing either now or in the future.
TheGloriousTachikoma, can you confirm whether soldering over the cap works as you say on the stock driver in the Convoy C8 from Simon on Alibaba? If so, I might not need to buy a new driver at all. Thanks.
You have been under the wrong impression. The 3.04 Q-Light driver is available from many sources, he doesn’t put them together. Programming it for something other than the default firmware it comes with means more work.
Okay, thanks. Then I owe an apology to you all and thanks for setting me straight! Now we return you to your regular programming… :bigsmile:
Anywhere from 50 to 100 ohms will work great.
Just let me know and I'll remove the MCU and put a jumper between the VIN + PWM pins, which is what you see on the "1 mode" drivers. If you let me keep the MCU I won't charge you, since those do cost money and I'll reuse it.
As they said, I do not build the qlite from scratch, but I do charge for the time to flash & test the driver, add chips, etc.