It sounds like Richard married a girl just like mine but I bet Lisa never asks Richard to do anything. 
PS, another host to remember for the 22mm driver(s) — the SupFire F3-L2
That’s a zoomie sized for 3xAAA with a tube for 18650; the’ve sometimes been on deep discount sales
Nice solid light but with a stock H-M-L-strobe-SOS no-memory driver.
Intl-outdoor has 5000k 219BT-V1’s in the 9050 variety. Not sure anyone else has the 9050’s but that’s what I’d go for.
Except for that part where it says sold out. 
Oh, indeed it does. ;(
The thermal regulation in bistro is pretty low-quality. I’m hoping to improve that next time I touch the thermal code, probably completely rewrite it and hopefully use a 10-bit ADC reading instead of 8-bit in addition to using better algorithms. So, at the moment, it won’t ramp back up until it has gone pretty far below the thermal ceiling.
About the first blink being less, that tends to happen if the driver didn’t wait long enough for voltage to settle before taking a measurement. In later versions I added a delay before the first measurement so that it’ll read a more consistent value. A tenth of a second is long enough to let voltage settle better, yet still short enough that it doesn’t feel very delayed.
Thanks for the explanation TK.
I find that if it got hot enough to step down in the first place, coming back into the higher mode too quickly will just get it that hot again in seconds anyway, so without some gap in that system it’d just be stepping back down very quickly.
I built a light that just simply gets too dang hot, very fast. (like 15 seconds you feel it hitting, 30 seconds it’s burning the hand) Once run to that burning point, it takes a while to cool down of course. Turning it back on will only result in the burning hot level within a few seconds, not 30.
The nice big copper head on an SS/Cu X6 works fantastic for most triples, but 3 XHP-50’s is excessive, even for this nice chunk of copper.
I built an Astrolux S3 (manker X5) 14500 using the host I purchased from Banggood. After my quad mod, I noticed that the tailcap was illuminated. I guess they sent me a host with a stock illuminated PCB switch.
What I don’t get is, and I can’t say I fully understand much about lighted tail caps, doesn’t there have to be some sort of bleeder resister on the driver?
I didn’t instal one. I used a new version Mountain FET + 1 driver that Richard sent me. Do these drivers come with a bleeder already installed, or am I just leaking electricity all over the place?
The tail is not as bright as the stock lights, but I think they are too bright. I guess dimmer means less bleed.
Can someone answer this mystery.
I remember someone asked Richard if he could add a bleeder resistor , i don’t think it has one already!
Yeah, I bought the aluminum host and also got the tailcap with the blue LEDs.
I keep hoping someone with fine motor control and soldering skills will offer tailcap upgrades — dimmer, amber, whatever.
Can the bleeder resistor be put into the circuit at the tailcap end, to make up for not having one at the driver?
That’s what I want to know. All I did was build a host using a MTN driver and I’ve got an illuminated tail. It’s magic.
It’s a stock S3 Astrolux illuminated switch. As far as I know, Astrolux mounts the bleeder on the driver. So why does mine work?
Tailcap has “access” only to the negative side of the battery , but for the lighted tailcap , you also need the plus side connected to the resistor .
So where did the bleeder on the MTN driver come from?
I really don’t know .
Richard will know for sure , except if there is a short somewhere .
Perhaps through the voltage divider?
I don’t recall the exact “how” but I think not having a proper bleed resistor can mess with mode changes. It probably lets the MCU stay on with the current from the tailcap LED, or something similar. It’s discussed somewhere in the big lighted tailcap thread.
MTN FET + 1 stuck in muggle
(Bistro)
The lighted tail switch was bothering me, so I removed and replaced it and now my light is stuck in three mods and won’t reset.
I’ll fast press a bunch of times until the light turns off. It blinks once, then pulses and the light comes back on in the same three modes. It will not go onto two blinks after the pulse. I’ve tried over and over again, but it always comes back on to three modes after the first blink.
It worked fine while the lighted tail switch was installed. (Which I didn’t even know was there for some time)
Is this driver finished?
I know this is a stupid question, but do you turn it off when it starts to pulse ?
No. I’m waiting for it to blink twice after the first pulse, or three times after the second pulse. It just automatically comes back on to three modes after the first pulse.
If it’s stuck in muggle mode try to turn it off when it starts to pulse
Crap. I was sure I tried that a bunch of times, but that seemed to fix it. This was driving me crazy. I was sure the illuminated switch did something to the MCU.
Thanks.
Edit: I don’t even know how it got to muggle in the first place. I changed the switch…and there it was.