Sounds good, thanks for the quick reply! I’ll keep an eye out for that 16mm
Hey Richard, I sent ya a PM. I know’s yo’r bizzy! Thanks!
Testing out the 17mm fet+1 driver with bistro a bit. Noticed two things, one being that the output does not increase after reaching temperature threshold and then cooling. I didn’t try putting it on ice or anything though but if it’s just sitting there it stays very low for several minutes, which was the extent of the test. Not an issue, a click increases brightness again, just mentioning because it was mentioned that it is supposed to go back up on its own. The other thing is that the voltage blinkout will do 6 blinks, and then 7 blinks, followed by sets of 7 blinks. It always seems to do one blink less on the first set of blinks. Not sure what it signifies. I was expecting the default blinkout scheme of whole voltage value followed by tenths, but TK said the MTN scheme is different; 1-8 blinks each representing 13% of charge or so.
Hoop - I've seen that behavior with my firmware - 1st set of blinks is lower. Interesting... For me, doesn't always happen though, but I've seen it. Might have something to do with settling of the cell after high amps use, but not sure.
TK once said to read the second set, it’s pretty normal behaviour.
There is a temperature “dead zone” in which the driver will neither lower or raise the output. Toykeeper describes it here some. I think that the dead zone is just set to be a bit too large.
I did some more testing with my s2+ with single XP-L. I set my max temp when the outside of the flashlight was around 125F. In my test, I set the flashlight on 100% with a small fan blowing on it, while monitoring the light output. At around 125F it started to step down. It stepped down around 5 times. After several minutes the flashlight cooled to 89F, without the output stepping back up. I then put an ice cube on the flashlight and it cooled to around 65F. The output then started to slowly step back up. The steps were much smaller than when it stepped down. The temp got back up to around 93F and it stopped stepping up. The existence of the dead zone means it will step up some but will stop when it reaches the dead zone, which is seems to be close to 30F in size in my case.
Toykeeper has mentioned herself that the temperature code is not optimized. She suggests decreasing the dead zone in the code, in the linked comment above.
I actually increased the dead zone, otherwise you get extreme overshoot with hot triples in tube lights. The light has to cool down a lot before it tries to go back up, and it goes back up very slowly.
Richard, do you know of anyone else that might still have a couple of the Efest 14250 cells? I searched around the ’net but didn’t come up with anything. I just recently passed on the couple I had to a friend, thinking “I’ll just buy some more.” :cry:
Charles, did he “Bellow” it out, or did you have a typo there? (See how easy it is?)
Since you already seem to know the very slight difference between the two internal codes you might try some patience. I don’t mean to sound harsh, but come on, the dude is a busy man!
Seriously, how many lawyers do you actually know that would take the time to answer such a question? Richard will, we all know he will, but he has to get back around to it…. he’s spread really thin these days. 3 emails, and an open forum question, for the same one bin difference typo? No wonder we can never get in touch with the guy! 
All I’m saying is, we need to keep in mind that Richard is married with children, and hand-holding us at the same time…. Lord knows I pester him enough even though I try to figure it out on my own.
You must understand that Richard gets very very busy with emails and pm's...that does not include this thread or his personal life or even his real job.
If it has truly been 3 months then you were not ignored...he did not get your email. He responds immediately. In other words try again or post in this thread like I did about the batteries.
There are a few reasons why I would not have responded.
- 1. You sent an e-mail through the website, and I never received it. Certain people either cannot enter the code correctly, or there is an issue with their browser, and e-mails never get sent.
- 2. You sent an e-mail through the website, but entered your e-mail incorrectly, so I responded but you never received it.
- 3. You sent an e-mail direct, but it wen to spam.
Regarding the LEDs, all 219BT I have now are as follows:
NVSL219BT-SW45/D220 4500K, 90 CRI
There was a time (up until a few months ago) that the 20mm 219BT I had were slightly different.
Ya. I’m one who’s messages sent through the website never get to Richard. When I’ve messaged directly, never more than a day or two response time. For me anyway.
Richard, looking ahead to the coming dark days — after late October — what driver(s) do you recommend for the PC Amber emitters, not for “hotrod” but for longterm use?
I ask because last winter I showed the owner of local bicycle shop what I carry as my pedestrian/bike/traffic light — S2+ host, XP-E amber emitter, Qlite driver with strobe and mode memory.
He said that sort of light would be very popular for bicycle safety — more visible and attention-getting then the typical red blinky.
Now that you’re stocking PC Amber (higher voltage)
“Maximum Recommended Drive Current: 1.9A”
which of your driver(s)/configurations would you recommend that would not over-drive those emitters?
I want to make a few of these to give away and tell people exactly what to get from you to make more of them.
These won’t be for real modders who can do the arithmetic, but for people competent to do a couple of solder connections
Been there, done that. I ordered High CRI XHP-50’s at 5700K on a 32mm copper mcpcb and got a dull orange output from what must be 4000K emitters. These are not cheap, but oh well, ship happens and then ya die. Work or fail, these 3 emitters would ultimately be sitting around doing nothing anyway, doesn’t mean I’m happy about the situ but someone that likes campfire orange in a light will speak up one of these days and I’ll make their day with some powerhouse emitters.
Realize too, when we speak here we’re not speaking to any one individual but to several hundred people, many of which are newcomers to the scene. So while it might be true that you waited months in between inquiries (and that is certainly excessive) I was merely encouraging folks in general to give Richard time to respond as he works several jobs and doesn’t sit around at a computer like some of us do.
Open thread, many many people. PM, individual private conversation. Much difference.
Ultimately, if a few hundred Kelvin degrees makes that much difference, and you can’t get an answer from Richard, buy from Illumn or Intl-Outdoor and move on. Seems pretty logical to me anyway, but what do I know?
Wow, really warm XHP50’s! I build most of my keepers on 4C or 5 bin leds… I have yet to build a multi battery light, makes me a little nervous. I could see bad things happening if I screwed up, ship happens!
I have a couple of different 219b’s. I have some from Richard, love the tint and cri and I have a slightly different one from KD that I have not tried yet. I also have several from one other source to try. I need some kind of fixture that would allow a reflector and some kind of mount for a star for quick testing and a pic to compare tints.
I’m not Richard, but a Qlite with 5x7135 (“Remove 3” option) will put you exactly at 1.9A (5*.380=1.9). Then just pick your firmware of choice. Could also do the Moonlight Special driver, also with 5x7135 configuration.
Hm, I’d thought of the qlite five chips, that’s easiest for running one PC amber.
Moonlite Special uses one 350 and the rest 380 chips, the 350 for moonlight; 4x380 plus one 350 is close enough to 1.9A, that should work.
BLF A6 firmware is good enough (with the “bike flasher” stutter mode)
So does that mean the 219BT-V1 bare leds were a listing error? 
The description is now changed to fit all the ones mounted on MCPCBs.
Sorry guys, I got real sick today. I'll try and get all caught up tomorrow on your questions and comments. Thanks for being patient, and thank you everyone who always pitches in here.
Hope you’re feeling better. At least you’ve got a very pretty nurse to take care of you… 
(As if she’s got time! Printing invoices, packing our stuff, tending the kids, and minding the house… )