I bought a 22mm MTN-MAX a while back. At the time, I had it set up for ~8.4V input to ~3V LED and 6A output. I haven’t yet used it in the mod I was considering doing. Now, I’m contemplating using a ~6V LED instead for that mod. Is there an easy parts change I can do to make the MTN-MAX work for this? I won’t mind if increasing output voltage decreases output current, but it would be great if it doesn’t. I haven’t looked at the MTN-MAX thread in a while. If the answer is there, just let me know and I’ll go there. In fact, maybe I should go look at it anyway. :innocent:
Exactly .
Dale has machined the head to accept a bigger led mcpcb , 25 ? 28 mm ? . I don’t really remember .
An expansion board would certainly be easier than several individual chips and still allows for stacking if space is too tight for the extra pcb. The starting point is the two channel main board. 8 chips is more than enough to heat up an 18650 tube light. My main concern is getting somewhat more regulated amps to triples without having to go to full throttle FET DD. An upgrade to bistro compatible mcu allows for thermal regulation in lights that get hot even at this relatively modest level. The single sided aspect in my mind really only applies to the 7135’s since they’re the chips that interfere with the retaining ring.
I’ve been thinking about this for a bit, trying to get away from a timed turbo stepdown. On my last Mtn order I grabbed an attiny25 to swap onto a qlite driver. I’ve got Bistro modified to be single-channel, waiting to be flashed as soon as I get a chance to swap mcu’s. I really just need to sit down soon and try it.
Yep that’s the idea! In the past, I have cut the base to 19.8mm I.D. with a 45 degree champhered edge open and the reflector self centered itself to the 20mm mcpcb board with the leads inside the reflector with good results, but crap still clung to the reflector surface no matter how many times I hit it with compressed air.
This time the inside of the emitter opening was tapped off with painters tape, and the large end also! Resulting in a very clean reflector surface, after machining the reflector flat. The centering ring still fits with precision to the emitter diameter of the reflector and LED.
The head will then be machined to accept the 32mm Noctigon, plenty of clearance with out resorting to flat contacts or pieces of flat copper hanging off in space, clearing the outside diameter of the reflector, ect. ect. I tried that, done that, didn’t like it, will never do it again! :person_facepalming:
Just my way of doing things 
I want this one…right!
Hit it with water? Ie, a good blast under the sink to rinse it off, then rinse that with distilled water (no residue), optionally with 90% IPA as a chaser (and to help it evaporate faster).
Or, if perfectly dry, a light “feather-dusting” with a single-ply tissue gets off most stuck-on dust quite nicely. Just make sure everything’s dry so you don’t drag things along and possibly smear them.
I’ll take a (clean!) deli-type napkin, pull it apart to a single-ply if double, shred one end into “fringes”, then roll it into a tube so each fringe is like the hair on a brush. That’s my “feather-duster”. As long as what’s on the reflector is also dry, and not “glued on” in any way, that usually works great to lightly brushing off dust, filings, etc.
You can just change the sense resistor to lower the output current if you'd like. The equation is 0.2V / sense resistor = output current. 6A, although not officially supported for 6V LEDs, does usually work on the 22mm without any issues. Depending on the inductor, you'll be running a bit less efficient than you could be.
So, there isn’t really a change to make for going 3V -> 6V other than changing the current setting and maybe a different inductor for better efficiency? I didn’t expect that. Thanks!
Edit: In case it matters, I ordered this driver with the External inductor.
Yep done that, thanks! Turn the light on and the stuff is still there, makes it duller, like a film on it. I have done it all, not my first rodeo, it is best the crap dose not get there at all! Period! 
A de-mag-nitizer works great to get the metallic, magnetically charged particles to release from the Vapor coating, too.
With the big external inductor don't worry about changing it---it'll run great.
Thanks again!
Hey RMM do you all have a rear clicky switch that will fit the VG10? The ones that come with the light are not very good quality.
And forward-clickies for ’502s? 
Not sure. Looks like a Convoy M2, but that doesn't mean it's the exact same. What are the important dimensions?
Not that are a direct fit, unfortunately.
It looks like the same switch that comes in Convoy L2, L6, and XitTD C8.
Got my latest order today, thanks Rich. I’ll let you know how bistro does on a single sided +1 triple. :arrow_right:
Hi Richard, I’m having an issue with a M6 mod option 2 that I sold to a friend in the summer. It steps down after roughly 3 seconds on turbo. From the following pics it appears to me that the light was overheated.
The piggybacked driver looks fine.
Any suggestions or help you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Doesn't look overheated; all of the shiny dark stuff is just flux.
What kind of batteries are you using? Was the driver retaining ring tight? If it's only doing it only on turbo then either the batteries aren't up to the task or there is a loose connection somewhere.
When you put it back together, make 100% sure that you do not get any wires pinched between the driver and the host. This can easily happen, and if you get a red wire pinched you will have a short to ground which will not be pretty. You will want to tighten the retaining ring as tight as you can get it otherwise it can loosen when you tighten and loosen the body tube it can loosen the retaining ring.
30Q button tops have been in this light from the start. I’ll look more closely for a loose connection and take care in reassembly. Thanks for the quick reply. 
Is there a parasitic drain on the M6? I ask because when he gave me the light the batteries were at 3.1 volts. I initially thought that was the problem but after a full charge it still steps down.
edit: at 3.1 volts the light was stepping down to moonlight after a few more seconds.