Hi.
There really is no such thing as “pure white”. However most people would tend to agree a high CRI neutral white is a nice tint to use.
As a rule you won’t find emitters like this fitted stock. Or only in a select few. And often not in the budget end of the market.
However if you don’t mind modding, then it is very easy to swap in such an emitter.
In terms of flood. Well I think the best bet here is to learn and understand the different types of beams. That way you can decide yourself which will or won’t work for you.
A traditional reflector based light will always give you a hot spot and a spill beam. The smaller the reflector the larger the hot spot and less focused it will be. Also the larger the LED in relation to the reflector size, again the more de-focused the hot spot will be. e.g. an XM-L2 in a 20mm reflector will give a much larger hot spot than an XP-G2 in a 20mm reflector.
Reflector texture will affect the transition from hot spot to spill beam. An Orange Peel (OP) or Heavy Orange Peel (HOP) reflector will give a more diffused beam making it appear much more floody. Vs a smooth reflector (SMO).
Reflector based lights can give a very wide spill beam angle. i.e. the amount of area they light up is very large. But they will always have a hot spot and a spill beam.
An example of a floody reflector light is the Convoy S2+
Example of the beam:
NOTE: The S2+ is an 18650 light, not AA. But is just an example.
Now if you want more of an even beam. You can add a diffuser to a reflector light. Some lights have purpose made ones, or you can make one or even just use some tissue and cover the lens.
A diffuser will lower lumen output Out The Front (OTF). But will give a much more even beam profile without the hot spot.
A ‘wand’ is a similar idea to a diffuser, but extends out the front of the light to offer more of a lantern 360 degree radiance, rather than a beam.
Other options are:
-Mule lights. Essentially these are reflector lights without the reflector. Often very easy to make yourself by removing the reflector from any given light. The size and depth of the head/bezel will dictate the size beam angle of the light. The only down side is, mule lights often aren’t much use beyond a few feet as they simply don’t focus and project the light far enough to be of any use at more than say 4 feet. Higher output lights will have greater ability in beam distance, but you won’t get high output with one or two AA’s.
-Zoomy lights. The most common being ones that use an aspheric lens. The Sipik SK68 (and clones) are the most well known of these. Although your first link is a light very similar to the SK68.
The aspheric in flood mode will offer a large evenly illuminated area, like a large circle:
However the smaller the lens the smaller the area it will normally light up (focal length will have an effect too and overall host design). This means that typically a 1AA sized light won’t have the widest beam angle.
In this pic, the light on the left is the 1AA SK68 (like the light in your first link, essentially the same lens), the 2nd light in from the left is an 18650 Zeusray. It too is an aspheric zoomy, but in flood mode makes a much larger beam.
It’s not the easiest to see in this picture, but if you image to draw a line around the circle of each beam, you can see the Zuesray is say 3x the area of the SK68.
I don’t know of any AA/2AA lights that use a larger aspheric lens. Although there might be some. Although I suspect projecting such a wide area the light would not appear overly bright on this power source.
The last option is a TIR optic. These work in a similar way to aspheric lenses, but are found on less lights. The most common one is Led Lenser. These too can offer a nice large flood area. However you are highly unlikely to find any with a Neutral or Warm white emitter.
Personally I like the POP lite T33. It runs on 3xAAA.
It’s the 2nd one in from the left:
See how big an area it lights up compared to an SK68: