I have asked Simon for a new model for hunting that is an upgrade to the L21B. I offered to pay for this new model since I need it for my New Zealand store, but he’s happy to just receive ideas for new models without charge. Same thing for the L21B I asked for
The below list is what I want, but thought I’d open a thread about it for ideas in case other hunters, or hunting retailers, wanted to add anything.
Edit: I don’t want anything higher than 5000K for hunting.
70mm SMO reflector
1x 21700 (possibly 2x 18650/21700?)
SFT40 5000K (with various options later on)
8A Buck Driver
Springs at both positive & negative (no solid posts)
1000-1200m sustainable range
Side Electronic Switch + Rear Forward Switch
USB C Charging
body of 25.4mm to fit standard weapon mounts
Under 400g
User Interface of a few mode groups to suit hunting
55°C thermal limit (I’d love it if we could have a few temp limit options like 45-65°C)
Group 1: High Only
Group 2: 2 Levels (Med/High)
Group 3: 3 Levels
Group 4: 4 Levels
Rear Forward Switch:
On / Off
I don’t know what Simon can achieve in UI Operation but I’d enjoy 2x press of the forward switch gets instant high.
Side Switch:
Hold: Cycle Levels
1x Press: On/Off in Standby (not too important)
2x Press: High (2x returns to previous level)
3x Press: Strobe (some may like it for security)
4x Press: Battery Check
6x Press: Cycles Groups 1-4
7x Press: Enable/Disable Mode Memory
8x Press: Reverse Rotation
I think this would be an extremely popular thrower if executed right.
2S buck driver would give full regulation and a SBT90 option.
A 3 cell can style light could have threaded holes for mounting a rail, or have a short rail machined into the light somewhere. Then use Picatinny to Picatinny mount.
It sounds cool, but I think it would rather be another light alltoghether. A similar light already exists, the 3X21D. Also, at the the second highest mode (~35%, highest sustained mode), it would be drawing a lot of power, get hot, and wouldn’t throw too far. As a hotrod, I would love it, but not as a hunting flashlight. Good idea anyways though!
Appreciate the input but it has to be 25.4mm body. Due to restrictions in NZ, most rifles here don’t have Picatinny rails and most hunters mount flashlights on top of the scope so it also can’t be too heavy and bulky.
SBT90.2 is too thirsty. I have a hard time selling this LED when runtime is heavily affected. The majority of hunters prioritize runtime over anything else. There’s other Convoy models already like the L7 & L8.
Please keep in mind that the furthest sustainable range is extremely important for this model.
Would an culpm1 or cslnm1 make sense? The hotspot would be small, but likely usable. An nm1 at 3 amps throws farther than an sft40 at 8 amps, and the nm1 could sustain its full power well in a thower this big (good heat-dissipation).
Of corse, the osrams couldn’t replace an sft40 at it’s job, but as a later option, do you think it would make sense for some hunters?
The CSLNM1 would be too narrow. The CULPM1 would be the narrowest I’d go but since there’s no 5000K option it wouldn’t suit. I hadn’t mentioned the CCT because Convoy adds so many options anyway to focus too much on that. For my store I’d want no higher than 5000K, ideally.
I was selling the L21B NM1 at 3A and hardly anyone wanted it. Miss the first shot or injure the animal and a narrow beam makes it difficult to track it down. Also, narrow beams make searching rather difficult, especially when you’re not familiar with the area.
Maxtoch was extremely popular here with the original Shooter 2X that had a dedomed XML2. New models switched to the CSLNM1 and so many mention on the NZ hunting forum that they hated it, too narrow.
One big issue with Convoy’s models when using small LEDs like the Osram chips is the need to manually center every unit. An SFT40 is straight forward thanks to the square gasket that fits snug around it.
Centering the NM1 is a pain in the butt sometimes.
Just wondering, would 70mm really be enough to sustain 1,000+ meters with an SFT40? The L21b does only 800 with an SFT40. BTW, thank you for getting simon to release the L21b, I love mine
1x21700, or 2x21700
70 mm head is good with SMO reflector
Boost driver around 7 amps or a buck driver 8 amps
Either SFT70 or xhp70.3 HI for boost or sft40 or buck HX for buck
A threaded bezel for filters (red/green) or slip-on filter capable
Remote switch available
Consider a narrow-angle TIR lens so you don’t waste half the emitter’s output on spill that just washes out everything in front of you so that what is lit up downrange is all but invisible.
Lookit the IF22A, Catapult Mini, and similar for nice TIR lenses that are bigger’n the usual 20mm ones, but still compact enough to actually put light where you want it with little if any waste.
The 1Lumen review has the SFT40 at 850m on 35%. I have noticed that the new SFT40 batches are performing lower than a previous batch. By adjusting the gasket height I was able to get an extra 70-80m. Honestly though, 1000m sustained is fairly decent, with the highest level hitting 1500m ish would be great, a lot of hunting models out there can’t do that.
The Maxtoch Shooter 2X sustained 1200m with a dedomed XML2 and 65mm reflector. Does anyone know if the die of the XML2 is smaller than an SFT40? Is it realistic to expect an SFT40 to reach a similar range?
Threaded filters are a hunter’s worse nightmare lol. I reviewed the Maxtoch L3K and Speras T217 and I really hated screw on filters when you’re in a hurry. The filters also have no protection if you dropped them, so the slip on filters are best. On the Speras flashlight the filters would cross thread half the time and I was over it in the end.
Anything over 5000K isn’t what I’m after, so that would rule out the SFT70 and CULPM1? For the initial release I’d be aiming for the SFT40 5000K, but later on I’m sure Simon would release it in various LED options. An XHP70.3 HI would be a good choice for a wider beam.
Probably looking at a smaller TIR lens and as little weight as possible. A variable power scope with a 1" tube is a very thin body to allow the addition of a sliding tube inside. Double rings are needed to take the recoil flex off the scope. The bigger the lens the higher the light is mounted over the scope the more it wiggles back and forth destroying the scope. A 70mm light lens with a 50mm scope lens plus spacing is going to put center of scope to center of light at least 70mm’s apart. Not many scopes can take that whip for long. Ask about different colors, here in the States often red or green is used for pig hunts. They can’t see the light but still get spooked when facing away. They seems to still be able to see the shadows of themselves. Probably the ground and brush changing the shadows color.
Really? I’ve never had anyone report that. Heaps of hunters here are mounting the Maxtoch Hunter X Pro and haven’t heard that happening. I have heard of some customers using newer lightweight scopes that are careful what they mount.
Edit: That bezel is super close to the scope. Hmmm, I wonder if I should be reducing it to 65mm reflector because that Hunter X Pro has a 70mm reflector. It would be disappointing to have the head being too large and it coming into contact.
It’s part of the reason scopes have two rings for full support. Smaller and lighter scopes can get away with only one ring. A bit of scope science for your night shooters. Your pupil is considered 5mms so at 5x5 that’s about 25 square millimeters. For simplicity I’ll drop pi from the equation as it’s in both sets. With a 50mm lens that’s 2500 square millimeters. So at 1x you get 100 times more light, at 2x you get 25 times more light, at 10x you’re even with your eyes gain. Smaller lens and greater magnification equals less light. So greater stand off between scope and flashlight are going to happen. Recoil whip is going to happen and is much greater with only a single point of contact. The kind of failure is going to be a lost seal at the turret as it torques back and forth. Without the intact seal the scope will breath in hot and cold weather allowing condensation to form inside.
I think I’m misunderstanding you, I don’t know a heap about scopes.
Are you saying the flashlight requires double rings or are you just talking about the scope? I’ve never seen anyone in NZ use a scope with only a single ring mount.
Edit: Had a quick look on google and I see what you mean, but most hunters here are using scopes with dual rings. Dad has 4-5 rifles and has dual rings on each one. That’s why I was a bit lost there.
Both do. The scope has double rings to keep torque from happening. A single ring from the light to the scope and you get torque again on both the light and the scope. The light isn’t going to care, but the scope is. That back and forth rocking is going to break the scopes air tight seal at the turret. Then the scope will breathing as it gets warm and cool through the days cycle. Like broken seals on double pane windows condensation is going to form. This is why good scopes are nitrogen or argon filled. Anytime a scope fogs up internally it’s a failed seal. Your shooters probably won’t know the scopes broken until next season. Many might not know why.
