Thanks Steve, I appreciate what you’re saying but I still just feel like a hack. 
(in over my head a lot of times these days)
Hi Toykeeper, can you please tell me if there's a new X6 driver available that can handle triple/quad lights? Thank you!
TK, the switch on my Meteor is one of those metal clicky’s, like the Halloween Frog thing. I changed it to a normal e-switch and while it works perfectly with no boot in place it acts up again just the same if I re-install the boot. Seems odd, but it does work perfectly with the switch exposed. Beats me, just reporting…
From Banggood, there is not. But fixed drivers are available from others, including (if I recall correctly) RMM, Texas_Ace, Lexel, and Pilotdog68.
I’m not really sure what would cause that, then. I wonder if it’s partially compressed with the boot on, or maybe if having it exposed gives it a better connection to stable ground (through skin). This seems like the sort of thing a scope would be really useful for.
Thanks pat. I scoped it and it started smoking, doesn’t work at all anymore.
Edit: Smells fresh though.
too late for a disclaimer I suppose……
I replaced the switch and chose a boot cover that worked with it and the light is now very stable in operation. The only glitch left being the one of sheer heat from the power of it , overwhelming the thermal regulation. Here’s a video showing Anduril in action…
Oh, that’s my Mom and Dad on the throw blanket… my Aunt had T-Shirts made for them with the year they got married on the shirts and my sister took a picture of them and had the blanket made. Today is their 67th Anniversary.
I like the beam that is coming out of those Samsung leds. I think it is finally time to swap the outdated xpg2 leds in my meteor.
Lightning mode never quite cooperates, does it? It goes for a long time without any big flashes, and then as soon as you look at it to see if something is wrong, BOOM!
Such is the nature of random numbers, I suppose.
Technically, it’s dumping out the contents of ROM, filtered through an algorithm to make the data more chaotic, but about 8 times per second it adds in some truly random data from the outside world, which makes it actually random instead of just chaotic. Even more technically, it’s dumping out a few kilobytes of ROM, revolved through 256 different variations, so it works out to about 8 million non-random bits in a predictable sequence. But 8 times per second, it jumps to a different and completely random part of that sequence. So the result is unpredictable.
It’s nowhere near cryptography-grade randomness, but not bad for a tiny cheap chip in a flashlight.
All that’s missing is thunder
Thanks for the video… you sure don’t have a Texan accent… the beam look great… I don’t see any green tint shift in the video… amazing.
I had my commentator voice on. LOL Plenty of accent there, just depends on who I’m talking to. Born and raised in the heart of Texas, but worked with a wide variety of people and learned to be somewhat chameleonesque when working as a kid in my dad’s lumber yard. I tend to talk faster than a lot of “natives”. A side effect of talking too much… 
That’s a useful skill.
Nice… are you a friend with robo ?
Decided to check current at one of the boards , de-soldered the negative lead to one of the 4 triple boards and soldered in a 20ga Teflon loop for my clamp meter. With fresh cells it pulled 14.53A at the board. So that’s 14.53A times 4 boards equals 58.12A overall draw. With the Vf going up over the charted 3.13V at 3000mA, I estimated 3.23V at 4840mA so that would make for ~188W, in a very compact little package. 
Ok… where do I send mine to get this done?! haha.
I think I may have gone wrong with the slave boards, too much overall power and heat. Perhaps a single driver to the Samsungs would have netted a more manageable heat level that the thermal program could handle. I know it would still get really hot, the XP-L HI’s made some 11,200 lumens and got really hot too, so the Samsungs would probably best the XP-L’s and work on a single MOSFET. Maybe the Infineon one used in the D4S. And it’d be a LOT easier to piggyback in a single driver than it was wiring up all 4 of these!
This light was made to fit the driver designed for it. Each and every thing about it was made to work together, with no extra space and very tight tolerance. The bottom MCPCB for the springs is a solid thick piece of copper with springs on it, very well done, and those springs are the beryllium ones, again nicely done. So in all honesty, simply putting Samsung emitters on the original MCPCB up top may well be a great upgrade to an already excellent light.
Surprised this light still has a following since 2015, I ended up ordering a used one from ebay, nichia 219ct