Will they still be produced?
I bought a used noctigon from ebay, I suspect I’m not getting turbo. I’m using button top 30q batteries, brand new.
Someone on CPF suggested to push button 12 times and hold, if I see double blink, then it’s not working.
What does double blink mean and any tips/suggestions to fix this weird issue I’m having?
Thanks!
Pressing the button 12 times and hold activates the Indicator Warning. A double blink means that it is enabled, a single blink means that it is disabled. Every time you press 12 times and hold, it should toggle between enabled and disabled.
I've noticed (only now after years of owning and using a M43) that there is an error in the manual: on page 7 it says that the light blinks once when you turn on a feature and twice when turning off a feature, it's actually the other way round (like NeutralFan in the post above mine describes). Maybe Hank could update the manual to avoid confusions.
Oh yes, oh yes.
Could you perhaps do custom SST-20 installations inside of the D1?
That would be amazing 
Nice. Time for another m43 with sst 20 4000k. :+1:
Wow 95CRI M43 would be sweet. Can you bring back the white host? I already have two of the dark grey ones.
Interesting how on the D4S, the SST20 high CRI will throw almost as much as the XP-L Hi, but in the M43, the throw on the SST20 is less than the 219C and significantly lower than the XP-L Hi.
Hello,
what would you prefer Meteor M43 SST20-5000K or SST20-4000K?
5000K would be litte bit green in low modes and clear NeutralWhite in high modes.
4000K would be what? grenn in low and high?
Didn´t found beamshots of SST20 Versions.
Thanks
Ever receive it? If so, how do you like this version?
Hoping someone can help here. Does anyone know why the LEDs blink when I transition between modes? I also have a blinking button that I’m not sure why it does that, example video
M43 blinking M43 blinking - Album on Imgur
Check your Cells—the switch changes colors when the charge is low —maybe your cells are getting weak and can’t put out the required amperage for the higher modes—Mine blinks when it reaches Turbo to alert it’s in Turbo—Sometimes a ground issue will cause these problems to
Maybe the battery holder is not tighten enough. I would also clean all the connections with the alcohol pad.
It doesn’t blink to alert the user that it’s in turbo. That blink means it thinks the cells are too weak, to let the user know it lowered the output to a level it thinks is more appropriate.
As far as I can tell, the algorithm it uses to detect “low” or “weak” cells is too sensitive… because mine does it even with full cells that I got with the light. It can’t reach full turbo even with the cells it was sold with. But if I give it a set of my highest-amp cells instead, also fresh off the charger, the output is a little higher and it doesn’t blink at turbo.
I’ve never seen any other light which is so sensitive about the type of cell used.
The same cells work fine in my Emisar D18 though.
Mine has blinked from day one when it hits Turbo (with VTC5 cells)— according to my lumen tube—-I have the XP-G2 dedomed version with 511 optics—It reaches aprox 6500 lumens
Thanks for the feedback all. So the blinking happens in low and medium modes as well but it seems only to he the case when in use for more than a few minutes. So what toykeeper said, it’s probably just sensitive to battery
TK’s M43 seems broken. None of my four M43 lights have this issue. Turbo is accessible until resting voltage of four 30Q cells is 3.45V, and with four GA cells at 3.50V. Or the light blinks when it’s stepping down because it gets too hot. With turbo this is around the 1 minute and 30 seconds mark.
My M43 with XP-G2 emits 7291 lumens in turbo and withstands 180 seconds. The temperature it reaches then is 75 degrees Celsius. Evidently, TK has a bad M43
It doesn’t seem to be just mine. It sounds like this type of issue is somewhat common. It has a complex design which sometimes works and sometimes does not. People have complained about the UI, but it has issues beyond that… like a constant current regulator which often fails to keep the current constant… even at low levels. A thermal regulation algorithm which oscillates and has chaotic behavior. A battery protection algorithm which sometimes works and sometimes makes turbo fail even when the batteries can handle it. Most of this seems to be caused by the firmware.
Making it less complicated would probably help improve consistency. Giving it some easily-accessed calibration functions would probably help improve consistency too, since the MCU is known to vary quite a bit from one chip to the next.
The hardware Hank produced is very nice… Hank always does a great job making his products high quality. It seems like it just needs a few things fixed in firmware.