Just a sexy chunk of metal to begin with.
External mod is a green tritium capsule attached with some 50 lb test fishing line internal is a R5-A3 strobe delete pill.
Nice, Erik! I really like that blow torch, too! :)
E1320 , I tried to click on your pics to make 'em bigger .
I failed .
Cool mods .
The trit makes it easy to find in the pitch dark and the R5A3 pill screws right in same threads
I de-crenulated my 501a so that my pocket rocket would be even more pocket friendly .
And here is my sand L2 , with a de-cenulated and de-anoded bezel ring ...
...and a frosted lens for perfect flood .
How about a 501A with the tail cap mod so it will tail stand a different switch boot and a Solarforce lanyard ring with a green trit hanging from some 50 pound test. 5 mode 1D tint XML with no flashies a .002 moon low, .090 low .85 medium, 1.75 high, 3.5 amp turbo mode with a Flame 18350 to push it along.
I like those mods , Erik .
Thanks, the tail cap mod is easy to do I simply remove the switch and space it out with an oring the same size as the outer diameter of the switch boot. The 5 mode really shines in the 501A with an 18350 flames deliver 3.5 amps no problem, for short bursts it is unreal 800 plus lumen turbo in a tiny package. The green trit makes for a great bedside light easy to find in the pitch dark.
never thought of lashing on a trit capsule. great idea.
I put a split ring in the lanyard hole so I could add or remove a lanyard easily .
I love the split ring idea here's one of my 504Bs with a really cool lanyard an even cooler BLFer sent me. This is the 9 dollar special XML Dino light I popped the driver out and made it direct drive, one mode 4 plus amps no waiting.
The only problem I've had using split-rings on the tail cap (much prefer using them on my lights) is that they make it touch to tail stand stably when there is no notch for the ring to sit into.
Lanyards last longer in a split-ring, too. Some of the lanyard holes and slots in torches have pretty sharp edges that eventually saw right through a lanyard. For guys like me that like to put a clip on a lanyard to attach to my belt loop, I feel much safer when a split-ring is installed.
i tried getting a split ring through both holes of my xeno e03, but just scratched it up instead. at some point i'll open the holes up a bit with a drill bit so I can do it...
What was your method for achieving this look? Might do this to one of my SK-68s.
I use a split ring intended for attaching hooks to lures for fishing . I usually have to remove part of the ring ( about 1/4 of a turn ) with a pair of end cutters .
Bump
Thanks Boaz! This is the first time I’ve seen this thread. I like the M3tal_Lord treatment of the Sipik 68 as well and also wonder how he did it.
Jack, I like the decrenated and deanodized bezel on your lights too.
I used mini-wire gate carabiner (from Proton) like clips on my small lights (TI, EOS,etc) so that they can clip on and off a necklace or keychain quickly and easily.
I also use DC fix to diffuse many of my lights.
I gave the oven treatment to a couple of single AA lights that were already olive by only doing either the head and tail (on one light) and only the body on another light so a two tone look.
so I could holster & unholster it real easy. It’s blingy but real smooth with kind to the fingers mild dehorned knurling that still allow a decent grip. Did a SSP (Sorta Steam Punk) treatment to my 10-B Cree becuz the little gold band demanded it. Then the key ring wouldn’t allow my Mini-01 to tail stand so that had to go. Tail standing’s more important to me than ruining it against my keys anyways. 8) Personalizing’s fun! I highly encourage it whenever plausible!
