Ahh, ok - didn't see that til I dnld'ed your JPG file and could zoom in. Yes -- that's how it's wired. Not sure, but maybe she's using it for input to monitor the actual voltage out? This is weird/new to me. I think R4 is a 0 ohm resistor? If so, only the cap is having some sort of effect. I'm sure she's posted something somewhere on this, just don't have the time to search for it, or review the Anduril source code right now.
Ohhh - just thought of it -- maybe this was the trick to read light back in from the main LED for programming/config settings from a cell phone. We were researching this a while back. Actually an EE friend here at work mentioned it to me - LED's are diodes and generate a small current based on light coming in to the LED. I poste dhere on BLF bout it, and at the time TK went with it and did testing/experimentation with it - results, from what I recall, were inconclusive.
There's flashlights on the market (or used to be) that worked like this to custom configure them.
So if they are using the FW3A driver in this EDC18, it's kind of a waste to lose the switch LED control. The flip side is it may be moddable to do so. You could remove that C4 cap and tap in a 30 AWG wire, hoping you can get access to the LED. The R4 pad could be used for a LED resistor if needed. Then just need to download a version of Anduril supporting the switch LED on pin #7, hopefully that exists.
Yes, Toykeeper just got back to me. Pin 7 was setup to use the “flash by light” technique, but it was not used in the firmware. Pin 7 is not actually doing anything. This means you could rewire it to a switch light and then refresh a different firmware and boom, have software control over the switch light.
I still have no idea if the production lights will control the switch light or if Lumintop just set up a simple constant on circuit.
I kinda like the constant on because I can quickly see if the light is mechanically locked out or not. I’m not sure what the appeal of the software controlled switch light is. I guess different strokes for different folks.
Yea,I kind of agree actually. I'd like it on whether the main light is ON or OFF. Though it is nice to do blinks with it, like blinking out the voltage level without using the main LED.
Tonight I just got in the Unicorn 1.0 and the Panda 2M CRI by YLP. Very impressed with both. I prefer the Unicorn 1.0's firmware with the single click On, single click OFF, mode changing by press&hold.
This is a high output light so maximum is only a burst mode of maybe 15 seconds, depending on the battery.
Brightness levels are your choice of 150 different ones. It has smooth ramping. Brighter output gets warmer faster and has less runtime. Lower outputs run cooler and longer.
Thank you very much for your reply. FW3A.- I am not familiar.
15 seconds is very short. It is sad that a beautiful flashlight does not have the ability to increase the duration of work at maximum
No, it is a bonus that we get so much output from such a small light.
I have the xpl-hi version with a 30Q battery and measure 3,300 lumen at Turn On and 2,800 lm at 12 seconds. That is way too much power for such a small light. The laws of physics can not be changed. The huge amount of heat has nowhere to go.
This is why Turbo is not considered a regular, normal level. It is more of a short use, burst mode if you need it.
You can reduce the max output by using a high capacity battery instead of a high drain battery.
You can also reset the top of the ramp level to what you prefer for longer or shorter run times. Stock is about 2.8A which gives me about 900 lumen. I can change this to 600 lm or 1500 lm or whatever I want. The brighter it is, the shorter the runtime before the thermal protection steps in and reduces output.
Sorry, but there is another point of conflicting information. In the video, Martin says that it can easily take a protected battery.
BUT, on the Banggood website, it says “Max. length 66 mm.” in the battery section of the description. Is this just a cut-and-paste error from the FW3A description?