They just used whatever cap on the fake L2m. In its defense, my fake L2m has worked just fine. I don't use it very often - I have a single mode, Solarforce XM-L in there right now . . . I have two new version L2ms waiting for me at the post office that I will pick up tomorrow so, no more fake Solarforces for me.
Foy
I Just shock tested my Dropin using a fake solarforce L2m.
It Got a High Cri single mode low voltage dropin.
The lights survived except for the shattered glass and deformed head. :bigsmile:
Love this thread. I just ordered just the L2M battery tube from Solarforceflashlight-sales.com for 7.99. I have a HAIII tailcap and HAIII head I had ordered before (that awesome head was 3.99) because i’d gotten a L2T battery tube already to put on my L2 standard, basically ending up with two Solarforce lights - both custom. 
So now I have some options. I had purchased an UF WF-501A a while back, and a MF UF R5 single-mode drop-in for weapon mounting- even a remote switch pad for it (tho I haven’t decided if I even want to use that). But because I only had cr123s and at 3v a single can’t run a decent drop-in worth a crap, I’ve never used it. But I love the size and the potential of getting full XM-L or that R5 drop-in performance with the cr123/16340-sized host. So… I got smart and ordered my first pair of TF Flames in 16350 and they are on the way. Once again excited about my wf-501a, but having started my Solarforce collection, I realized- why settle for the 501a when I can build an L2m? Good question.
Solarforce has effectively turned a few of my other brand hosts into gift lights, which is probably where that 501a will go. Can’t say I’m really upset about it. Then again - maybe I’ll keep it and mount it on my shotgun.
Thanks for another great review, Foy. I’m with you and your love for real Solarforce.
I know this comment is three years after the last comment on this thread. I am just starting to order SolarForce flashlights. I own a L2P plus a body extension so I can use either 1 or 2 18650’s or 2 or 3 CR123’s. Now I am looking at the L2M made from 2 CR123 body tubes. My plan is to take off the second CR123 tube and using the second tube as an alternate extension on the L2P and making the remaining single tube of the L2m body a shorty of just the single CR123 length.
From my limited knowledge a single CR123 can’t power a XM-L drop in so my choice is one of the XR-E or XP-G drop ins. Has anyone tried this combination? How bright is it? What kind of throw distance can it achieve? I already own a Solarforce Z-1 that with the XP-G2 bulb will achieve 240 Lumens on a single CR123. It is quite bright for a flashlight that is less than half the size of the L2 series. So I would like to hear some feedback on powering a large drop in with a single CE123, and is it worth the effort? Thanks
XRE & XPG require the same voltage as XML, and all use the same drivers, so to use any of the LEDs with a single3v CR123 you will need a boost driver. Switch to 4.2v RCR123/16340 and you can use the typical linear drivers.
Here are the appropriate SF dropins, AFAIK: Cree Input Volt (0.8v-4.2v). These already contain boost drivers.
Why would anyone want to use CR123's? You don't need the small 16340's, a L2M will take a higher capacity 18350.
Either for shelf life or because they get them for free at work (I do not).
One reason I am considering using a single CR123 or RCR123 is because with the currently offered L2M I can seperate the two body tubes and make a one tube shorty that uses only one 123. Why? Because I’m a flashaholic. But my hesitation is I also own a SolarForce Z-1 that is less than half the size of a L2 powered by a single CR123 and powering a XP-G2 all for $15.99 plus shipping.
So if I can make a L2M shorty and get the same brightness as the Z-1 I might be willing to go for it. But if I can’t get the same brightness as the Z-1 it may just be a waste of time and money. Although as I said being a flashaholic I like the idea of a shorty. I may write SolarForce and see if they are bringing out a XP-G2 drop in in the 0.8v - 4.2v range.
I’d like to hear any opinions.
I have a low voltage light that works with a XM-L. Solarforce may not offer it, but the XM-L should be able to get powered up by a CR123A. It is pretty well known that the Solarforce drop ins are not that great. There are much better options. THe hosts are pretty decent though.
Welcome to the Forum! 
Yeah, sure, with a boost driver it's no problem to run a XML with a 3v CR123.With a linear/CC/DD driver output will be pitiful, and that's if the driver has no low voltage protection that shuts things down nearly immediately even with a fresh CR123.
The Z1 has a boost driver, that's why it works (and also why they're unreliable/unpredictable if you use a 4.2v 16340). To cover that 0.8-4.2 voltage range properly it would need a boost/buck or a boost driver that's meant to go direct drive when Vin is higher than Vout and no boosting is required.
What comfychair said! That’s what I meant. :bigsmile: :8)
I did not specify the boost driver, as most low voltage drop ins have the boost/buck drivers. At least mine do.
It’s been 3 years since this thread started and I would like to hear from those who bought the Kaidomain drop in for the shorty L2M? How is it working now? Same brightness? Any problems?
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to this thread. I have been focused on other issues.
Gj, Can you expand on your experience with the 18350? Most sites talk CR123/RCR123/16340. So it only recently occurred to me that a 18350 might also work. Unfortunately, I find very few sites that carry these at reasonable proces. So first, how do they work for you? Any problems with total length when using more than one in a series? All of the 18350’s I have seen online all have the same low storage capacity as the 16340 which seem more available. Are storage capacities increasing on the 18350? What brand do you recommend. Where do you get them? Price?
Comfychair, this is the area of lighting that I am researching now. When I put my Solarforce XM-L 2.7v - 9.0V drop in the light was very dull.Even with a new CR123 3v, I assumed it was voltage sag that kept the light from getting bright. Maybe it will be better once I get the rechargeables.
ri chevy, thanks for the welcome. The problem I see with using an XM-L with a single CR123/RCR123 is that a XM-L needs closer to 3A toi run brightly. At this rate the 123 will be used up quite quickly. Am I wrong on this? That is why I am working to get a good XP-G2 for the L2M mini. I am hesitant to take up soldering but I may get the Solarforce XP-G .8 - 4.2v drop in and then try to swap out the LED for a XP-G2. I may be able to do a limited swap and solder. Besides I can’t seem to find a cheap driver with the .8-4.2v range online.
Hi I use Efest IMR 18350s
I ordered them thru RMM:Efest Purple IMR 18350 - 700mAh - Button Top
I’m using these for this vinh MT-G2 dropin:CLOSED WTS: Brightest Regulated M2500 P60 LED (Beam Shots) | Candle Power Flashlight Forum
I will give the 18350’s a try and see how they work in my mini… Funny size battery. Does anyone know what their primary use is?
I like your charger. I just got the Nitecore D2 and it works well with the 18650’s I pulled from an old laptop battery pack.
I’m trying to learn about voltage and amps. The only experience in voltage is the voltage on the various dropins sold by SolarForce so I am trying to learn how non solarforce lights use input voltage spreads.
What I have learned is that the multiplier makes a big difference. When dealing with 1 or 2 batteries the voltage range can be small, but when dealing with 3 or 4 batteries a small difference in battery voltage makes a big difference in the voltage input range when multiplying by 3 or 4. It could be that the flexibility I want is very difficult to produce because of the multiplier effect.
I suspect that their primary use is flashlights and vaping. Aaand I suspect that that’s why capacity sucks and refuses to improve significantly.
I understand quite a few things, but I do not understand your multiplier theory. :~
Maybe it would be good to tell you that low voltages (<5v) are difficult to work with and/or regulate. High current & low voltage at the same time with boost, buck, or boost/buck, or SEPIC or whatever drivers gets much harder. The easiest thing is to have an input voltage that is slightly higher than your desired output voltage and then have a linear driver which gets rid of any excess voltage as heat. I don’t know if this lecture clears up any mysteries for you or not.