Review: UltraFire C20 / Crelant 7G3CS clone

That’s a good question, It would be interesting to see a comparison between the two.

Ultrafire specs list them both at 800Lm even though the C20 is listed as having a U2 emitter. I would normally prefer whichever one has more flood, however between these two the C20 wins in my book (regardless of the beam profile) due to the better interface.

> I had the T50 on my wish list for a while but as I said I’ll be ordering the C20 instead.

:smiley:
How long are the 18350 protected batteries?

If it’s over 72mm you could mode the driver spring, remove the silly plastic with a hook and see how well does the spring compress or use a shorter spring.

I’m curious myself how much different it may be from the original, will have to read the CPF review completely. But they are too scared to take it apart so it’s only outside pictures.

It does heat up, but since the currents on a single lion cell are not that high it’s warm like WARM when tailstanding. But I could just grab it and it would cool down I would not feel discomfort.
I guess if you run it on 6.0V, leave it tailstanding and then touch it it might be too hot.

Since power is fully adjustable you can dim it a little and it won’t heat as much.

If it has better or worse heat dissipation than D4/Xiaozhi at the same currents? I would say the same, no difference I would notice yet and would really have to test with the same currents to the LEDs.

This is perfec light for BLF logo :P

can't wait mine to come :D

I am thinking this needs to be our next BLF light

That looks pretty impressive, I like the look of the driver along with basically everything else.

Ah crap, I had to order one. I will be replacing the driver with a reprogrammed 105C. If it works well, I can provide a modding service if anyone is interested.

Hmm . . . I might be interested in this. Please post back your result.

-Garry

LC and DX list it as U3 with 800lm and uncoated glass lens.
It was the first thing I told Crystal that it does have a coated glass lens. Will tell her again to change it, especially if it arrives to you folks like that as well. I hope it will.

I can’t verify the bin though, Cree does not mark their emitters, as does nobody else.

:slight_smile:

Might do that too, I’m just too busy with other things than to reprogram my lights now. It’s sitting here, flashlight apart, just connect the thing to a computer and get the software package going and working.

You will lose the wide voltage range though, but probably gain some output depending on your configuration.

I bet it would be possible to change, add resistors to those R1 and R2 and it should increase the current output. Will have to try later when it is apart again.

Also with a Nanjg 105C you will get a PVM, with the default one you get only a noise and it’s much less noticeable on camera than a pure PVM. Plus it’s at the edge of even hearing it, means no noise for most people. Nanjg 105C tends to make noise when there are imperfect connections to the battery or in the threads.


Beamshots added.
This should be all folks.

It’s probably full of grammatical errors since I can’t spell check it when writing the HTML. Not a native English speaker 0:)

My skill level is not up to taking apart the two lights like you did, but I'll take side by side pictures for you of everything I can.

I think that the stock driver works just perfect, it's one of the pluses for C20,

maybe it doesn't look like much but it works exactly how I like :)

I just reread the description of the operation of the driver and I don't know that I like it. Perhaps if it memorized the two modes you set with the ramping and were not lost after using the tailcap switch.

-Garry

Now that’s the review of all reviews right there.

I like it.

Yeah, it’s more tactically oriented, so the power switch always turns on high.
I’ve just added a video from CPF selfbuilt about the 7G3CS and 7G6CS. The UI is IMHO the same as I’ve seen on videos about 7G2CS and 7G5CS.

It only remembers as long as you do not cut off the main power.
You could if you want, leave the power on for days and days with the power switch and have it on standby/off via the mode switch. That way it will remember what you set to the 2 modes there as long as it has power.

Think of it as a volatile memory, computer RAM.


And thank you everybody for the kinds words :slight_smile:
I hope the big time I’ve spent on the review will be helpful to you.

Yeah, actually the UI isn't hafl bad, but I would like it if it had memory and maybe H-M-L for the mode switching. I think I might have it so that it is always on when the tailcap switch is on, so no standby. I don't want to accidentally leave it in standby.

Thanks for the indepth review with terrific pictures.

Question: is tracking included in that ($29.20) price?

Apparently it is. I just got tracking number for mine today.

When did you order, I ordered today :)

I don’t know, I’ve only checked that the supplied code works. You will have to see further while ordering I suppose, or try asking Crystal from LC.

I only write the independent review :bigsmile:

I got a few coated lenses from FastTech today and I have to say the UF C20 coated lens seems to have better coating and more clarity.

The reflection from FT coated lenses is neutral in color, it removes warm tones but that’s about it. The UF C20 lens makes the reflection look violet and also seems it’s a bit different, probably double layer coated and FT might be only single layer coated. There is a clear distortion of the reflection, I think it’s double coated, it’s like 2 images layered over each other but moved to one side a little. Also the reflection depending on angle is more violet and sometimes more blue.

I would say It’s UF C20 double layer coated, 1 layer blue, 1 layer red.

The reflection from FT coated lens is also much brighter than the one from UF C20 coated lens.

Also looking at a white computer screen the FT lens darkens the view a tiny tiny bit more.


Yes you can unscrew the top of C20, remove the reflector with lens and use it in the weird candle mode (as it’s called I guess) that is super floody but exposes the emitter.

Also don’t look into it or you will blind yourself like I just did. It’s floody but still too bright.

Order placed 3/19. Hopefully will have it by the end of the month. I really think one of these, the crelant, or the c20 (whichever I like less), will end up being a good candidate for an XP-G2 :D