Securitylng? Really? SRK Clone from ebay - Unboxing, initial thoughts and amp draws - Updated with tear down photos.

[Old-Lumens]

@unknown00101

@Tom E

The Yupard triple "soup can with-a-handle" light also has the same threaded shelf for the LED's, but it has the 3 separate conventional stars, 16mm's, details here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23130, post #16 has a picture of the shelf/emitter plate.

Ouchy is doin a great job on on the heat sinking of that light, little different direction from you (OL) on this one, but close. He credits you of course for the tips/methods .

Those copper discs look great! Do you mind posting the source, if they would sell similar small qtys?

My SRK has the same shelf, but with individual 16mm stars, unfortunately XM-L emitters though. Are the discs perhaps from the bopper seller?

Different place - Link to the Shop I bought 6 of each, but you can buy as few or as many as you want. Best way is to contact her and tell her what you want and she can quote it. I believe they can do up to 18ga, but it’s best to ask for sure. It takes longer to clear customs from Mexico to the US, so expect an easy 3 weeks sitting in customs.

[MRsDNF]

Should we start worrying about you OL? “Helping young women help themselves”.
Na. Whatever you get your kicks from is ok with me.

[Old-Lumens]

I went ahead and ordered some .025, .015 and .005 ohm resistors. I should be able to do something with them. If not I will just jumper it and see what catches on fire first...

[comfychair]

A single .025 will be the same as the two .05s there now, so just adding one will halve the total resistance. On a driver like that with two empty pads and plenty of room to stack if needed, values in the range of .1-.25 would give you a lot more resolution (each one added gives less of an increase) so it's easier to dial in. Going from .025 to .0125 is too big a jump all at once. Might as well just bridge it with copper.

[led4power]

@comfychair

Sense resistors:

I would remove one of the original 0.05 ohms and add a 10 ohm pot. If I were feeling clever I'd drill through the PCB and mount the pot so it would be adjustable with the driver still in the light.

Those aren't sense resistors,because driver isn't current regulated,those are current limiting resistors.Shorting them you'll have direct drive (with pwm on lower modes).

[Tom_E]

@led4power

Those aren't sense resistors,because driver isn't current regulated,those are current limiting resistors.Shorting them you'll have direct drive (with pwm on lower modes).

I was thinking that - this driver is very simplistic so straight current limiting. Also the LED's should be in parallel on that 3-LED star, since the driver is not doing any boosting? I see nothing that will boost.

[Stittville_Ed]

@Old-Lumens

I went ahead and ordered some .025, .015 and .005 ohm resistors. I should be able to do something with them. If not I will just jumper it and see what catches on fire first…

Where did you order the resistors form??

Thanks

[Old-Lumens]

@Stittville Ed

@Old-Lumens

I went ahead and ordered some .025, .015 and .005 ohm resistors. I should be able to do something with them. If not I will just jumper it and see what catches on fire first...

Where did you order the resistors form??? Thanks

Digikey and sometimes Mouser.

[eebowler]

Thanks OL for buying and opening! (4X, XM-L1, is real cheap)

[Old-Lumens]

@led4power

@comfychair

Sense resistors:

I would remove one of the original 0.05 ohms and add a 10 ohm pot. If I were feeling clever I'd drill through the PCB and mount the pot so it would be adjustable with the driver still in the light.

Those aren't sense resistors,because driver isn't current regulated,those are current limiting resistors.Shorting them you'll have direct drive (with pwm on lower modes).

Ok, so what’s the answer? Sounds like maybe it’s better to just use 3 of the 7135 drivers master/slave rather than mess with this one?

[Pavithra_uk]

Still loading images - my crap internet connection

This is simplest SRK driver I ever seen. 3 LED parallel and driven by single MOSFET.
Those R050 NOT SENSE RESISTORS they just current limiting resistors to fool us. this is a direct MOSFET drive design.

Mr. OL, I know you gonna mod it.

If me, ill mod driver following way:

8x7135 for each LED. 3 branches. then drive all from stock MCU (Pin7)
This will require additional PCB or stripboard piece to solder. I think there is enough space there. or 3 pcs of 8x7135 board slave

Thermal mod - you’re the copper expert… another great mod coming soon…

[Pavithra_uk]

@Old-Lumens

@led4power

@comfychair

Sense resistors:

I would remove one of the original 0.05 ohms and add a 10 ohm pot. If I were feeling clever I’d drill through the PCB and mount the pot so it would be adjustable with the driver still in the light.

Those aren’t sense resistors,because driver isn’t current regulated,those are current limiting resistors.Shorting them you’ll have direct drive (with pwm on lower modes).

Ok, so what’s the answer? Sounds like maybe it’s better to just use 3 of the 7135 drivers master/slave rather than mess with this one?

drive 3 7135 boards from stock MCU. remove FET & resistors.
then no button problem.

[Old-Lumens]

@Pavithra_uk

@Old-Lumens

@led4power

@comfychair

Sense resistors:

I would remove one of the original 0.05 ohms and add a 10 ohm pot. If I were feeling clever I'd drill through the PCB and mount the pot so it would be adjustable with the driver still in the light.

Those aren't sense resistors,because driver isn't current regulated,those are current limiting resistors.Shorting them you'll have direct drive (with pwm on lower modes).

Ok, so what’s the answer? Sounds like maybe it’s better to just use 3 of the 7135 drivers master/slave rather than mess with this one?

drive 3 7135 boards from stock MCU. remove FET & resistors. then no button problem.

Thanks, I probably will just go with a DrJones master and two regular KD slaves then and eliminate the stock driver all together. I prefer his ramping modes.

[Illuminaria]

My first SRK died 20 days after arrival. Work called so had to leave town, thus the light went back for full refund as I had nothing for spares. Refund was in 4 days after Amazon paid for UPS return

The “lottery” is easier to deal with for us new guys when it does not have to go back to China for any reason, no?

[RaceR86]

@eebowler

4X, XM-L1, is real cheap

You might find this interesting. Cheaper and with XM-L2.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23479

---

Thanks for the teardown OL. :)

[Old-Lumens]

Mod thread is here, for this light.

[Old-Lumens]

The Other Ebay US sourced clone came in the mail today. Mini Review here.

[dchomak]

@dchomak

Purely as a test, I have ordered one also. It will be interesting to see if it ships from Amazon, in 3 days, and has XM-L2’s

Well, My order came today.

Did it come from Amazon - NO
Did it arrive in 3 Days - NO
Did it also come in a gift box - NO
Did it have 3 XM-L2’s NO
Was it a “Securitylng”? - NO (Skyray King)

Am I happy? NO, NO, NO and NO.

Both OldLumens and mine was ordered from “chinavally” and shipped from “epathdirect”

[Old-Lumens]

@dchomak

@dchomak

Purely as a test, I have ordered one also. It will be interesting to see if it ships from Amazon, in 3 days, and has XM-L2’s

Well, My order came today. Did it come from Amazon - NO Did it arrive in 3 Days - NO Did it also come in a gift box - NO Did it have 3 -XM-L2’s - NO Was it a “Securitylng”? - NO (Skyray King) Am I happy? NO, NO, NO and NO. Both OldLumens and mine was ordered from “chinavally” and shipped from “epathdirect”

That Sucks! Well, it shows just how trustworthy that seller is. Hard way to learn that. Are you going to send it back or keep it?

[dchomak]

Mine has a 2 mode driver with hidden strobe. That could be nice but the so called high and low are not very different. Also on high it is about half as bright as my FandyFire Warrior.
Quick clicks cycle thru high, low and off. Click and hold from either high or low sends it into strobe. Here are some identifying pics.


A deep scratch inside the lens?

Doesn’t anybody ever wash their hands when they put these together?

Is this enough of a clue as to which driver it could be?

Actually all this is now moot. While I was writing this, I had the light running to see if, as it ran down, all the cells were making contact. I thought that perhaps only 1 or 2 cells out of 4 were connected. If that were the case, then as it ran down, only the cells being used would run down.
I just looked over to notice that the light was very dim. I measured all 4 cells and they were all 4.1V or higher. My guess the driver blew.
What a total piece of crap!