The "Other" Ebay US clone Sky Ray King - Mini review and tear down.

In my other SRK thread "The Securitylng", I said that there were two sellers that shipped in the US, so there shouldn't be a long wait.

Well the second one came today, Priority Mail. It's from a new ebay seller, but since it ships in the US, I took a chance.

srk1a

Came in the standard white box.

srk1b

With the manual and lanyard.

srk1c

Looks like an SRK. No nicks, dings or scrapes that I see and it looks as good as any other SRK I have seen.

srk1d

These are XM-L and they are advertised as T6

srk1e

The Bezel and the Button are Aluminum.

srk1f

The tail cap will Not come off without heating.

srk1g

From the seller's photos, I thought this would be the three torrid driver, but as you can see, I have been duped again!

I don't know which driver yet, but it sure isn't what is in the ebay photo!

srk1h

srk1i

OK, so it works... It has the normal two modes H/L and the strobe. It is not bright!

My amp readings were only 4.5 amps on High and 500mA on low.

Fit and finish is as good as any other King I have handled. Possibly a little looser at the body to head threads.

I would NOT recommend this light, unless you just wanted to strip it down and mod it, which is what I will have to do. It's not bright and it has a no name driver in it, which is a lie, if you go by the ebay photos.

Buyer be warned...

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Not much to tear down really.

dud1a

I use a needle nosed pliers to turn out the switch housing.

dud1b

To get the switch out, I just turn it over and rap it against my palm a few times. It usually will come free enough for me to get to it that way.

dud1c

dud1d

There's a lot of things you can use to push the driver out with. I am using bent nosed tweezers here.

dud1e

I just get the nose in there and I feel around the edge of the driver and select a spot that feels like a bare spot, where I won't ruin a component and then I just push straight down till the driver pops out.

dud1f

What a mess. Another useless driver. Three fets this time, one per channel.

dud1g

K1 & K2 are for the switch wires. L1+, L2+ & L3+ are for the positive led leads and L1-, L2- & L3- are for the negative led leads.

dud1h

dud1i

The led shelf also unscrews in this light. I took it out and then separated the reflector by removing the screw underneath.

dud1j

dud1k

That's about it. I will be doing something with it, but I am not sure what yet. This will be my replacement light for the 4C that I was going to use at work. They can't bitch about this one being too long... Next they will bitch about it being too bright and might blind an attacker - pansies...

Looks the the same one I purchased some time ago.
Same glued tail cap and bottom of driver looks the same.

Looks like I will follow your tear down and repeat on mine.

As soon as I read your review of the other one, the one with the XM-L2’s, I ordered it! I think I made the right choice.
I just got my first XM-L2 today, the FandyFire C8 from TMart. XM-L2’s are nice!

i suspect its the cheap “non-torroid” driver you have there

but no worries as you are going to turn it into a sngle mtg2 face melting light of doom :slight_smile:

I figured I would finish this off real quick like. All I did was to change the leds to XM-L2 1D and I took the driver from the Securitylng light and removed the resistors. Then I used some 28-30 gauge wire and bridged all four pads. That should give just a little resistance - maybe not.

ssdewq1

ssdewq1

Now I get over 11 amps on high, 6 amps on medium and 2.5 amps on low. It's just a touch brighter than it was, as in OMG!

I am thinking this might be my work light, since I couldn't keep the 4C.

ebayb1

HIGH

eb1a

MEDIUM - Notice it looks just about the same as High? From 6 amps to 11+ amps and the light looks just about the same. So why do we keep pumping up the power, when we can't really tell a difference?

eb1b

LOW

eb1c

eb1d

eb1e

The best OMG shot right there. That is impressive.

eb1f

That's it, All done.

Don't forget to bring your sunglasses to work.

There seems to be so many variations of these SRK’s now its difficult to find the original real one. ( i have the original as far as i can tell with the 3-torrid driver, etc.) also im noticing a different pattern in the design of the back covers in some of these.

If 11 amps and 6 amps look the same, and 6 amps and 4 amps looks the same, and 4 amps and 2.5 amps look the same, why not just go all the way and run no amps at all? It should look just as bright, right? And battery life would be excellent. Won't burn your hand, either. :party:

Wow. What do you not like about your garage door? Inflicting this sort of torture on it. How do you get rid of the burn marks?

What you describe here is a tenet of Homeopathy. That the ever continuous dilution of medicines is actually more effective, all the way down to zero! A lot of people believe in this. :open_mouth:

GAH! Why didn't I catch that driver layout in the other thread? Resistors are between BAT+ and LED+, I completely missed the vias, didn't see it until just now.

OL, Are you satisfied with the heatsink on the better securitying “SRK’? Thanks.

Really? Hell, I’m quittin flashlights right now since I don’t really need 'em!Tongue Out Maybe I should have said that there seems to be a level of intensity where it’s already so bright that having it any brighter really doesn’t matter much. Bright enough. Of course that’s all totally subjective like love, hate and the best flavor ice cream.

The stock Aluminum led shelf in the Securitylng is thicker than this one and any time there’s more metal, there should be better heat sinking, but I don’t think, in the grand scheme, it really matters all that much. These SRKs just get hot very fast and there’s no place to go with all that heat.

I have to repaint the door about once a build.Laughing

What you have there is a driver with poorly thought-out mode spacing (medium is too high, it should be around 30-35%, not 55-60%), not evidence that more amps doesn't give a meaningful increase in output. The reason it looks that way is because you're looking at 100%, and then at 50%. Much like differences in tint, sometimes you don't notice it until you have two different ones going at the same time right beside each other. If you had two identical lights, one at 11A and another at 6A, and ran them at the same time beside each other, you'd see it.

You and me both love good heatsinking and I’m still reeling from the super thin heatsink from a warrior a bought a few months ago. :_( The securitying light seems like a decent alternative. Yes, the heat is trapped on the body (lacking fins) but, that’s what the hands are for :smiley: The 11A mod is sweet! I wonder if replacing the mcu with one from Dr Jones would work? (are these things interchangable?)

wow 11A after mod ! this is a awesome :slight_smile:

Don’t throw away that stock driver. Its true current limited driver. uses AMC7136 chip with external FETs

According to AMC7136 datasheet its current limit feedback voltage is 50mV

So, in this driver, there are 3 x 0.1-ohm sense resistors per channel give 0.033-ohm
Then, programmed drive current 50mV/33mOhm = 1.515A to each LED. total 4.5AMPs this is how you got 4.5A reading.

mod is simple if you have that low valve resistors.
to get 3A current 50/3 = 16 (0.016 ohms)

add another 3x 0.1-ohm resistors to each channel. total 9 resistors required.

So if I wanted to have 2 amps to Nichia leds, then 50/2 + 25, so 0.025 ohms for each resistor?

yes! 50/2 = 25 (0.025 ohms)
To get 0.025 you need one additional resistor to each channel. then 0.1/4 = 0.025ohms

in that driver setup, each parallel 0.1ohm resister can increase current by 0.5A. 1=0.5A, 3=1.5A, 4=2A etc…

do you have 0.1 ohm resistors ?