Its understandable that there is not so much real info (experiences and testing in diving conditions) because there are not so many divers here.
But as far as I understand, there is no reliable budget diving light, one wich would not have problems with leaking (without bigger or smaller modifications) - except XTAR diving lights.
Pls correct me if Im wrong…
Background story: One friend is occasional diver and he asked me to order him 2 diving flashlights. And this is more serious bussyness than “ordinary” flashlights, obviously. I want to get him something reliable, of course all is o the budget, so Im looking for budget reliable diving flashlight. And only XTAR comes to my mind 8BTW, do they have 12 year warranty on their lights)
I read a lot about diving lights here, and also had one tested (Keygos S2 XML, Archon clone, leaked in second dive of 20-30 meters think, water probably went under that thick head glass, but Im not sure….), and its seems that all these noname lights, trustfires and similar, are not trustworthy (without modification, if even with that) in this segment.
žAnybody has different oppinion/experience? Recommendation?
Currently my best choices are XTAR D06 XML-T6 and
XTAR D01 XPG-R5
I really think XTAR is only budget solution (without modding, buying new orings, and still worying if itll leak at 25 meter or not. WIth XTAR Ill just worry on 50+ meters )
And this other one, noname from the link, is really cheap so its not a problem to sampel it and test it, even if its not so good for diving.
At the moment, diving lights seem like “you get what you pay for” theirs only really cheap ones for $25, then the xtar ones for 200, then like 600 dollar ones.
Its a typo in first post regarding warranty, but in the meanwhile I already received info from the supplier, its 2 year warranty… Thats nice and reassuring
Yeah but you can buy XTAR light for cca 60$ (D01) and cca 100$ (D06)
(and also as I see there are also 100 and 150 budget diving lights with all kinds of problems… And I dont want to pay 150$ for light with problems - even if it has 3 XMLs )
IF it is really water-tight, this would be a deal.
I never had an Yezl but I know they are better quality, not cheapest budget lights (like Trustfire, Ultrafire etc) - and this price here seems reasonable… especially for diving light.
But I dont know if “100 meters diving test passed” is just advertisment, line from the manafacturer or what…
BEcause all 3 Yezl flashlights on that website have that line.
And here’s Keygos version/copy of that light. Because I already had one keygos light leaked, Im not prone to buy Keygos for diving again…
I wouldn’t buy a Chinese light based on its warranty. I also wouldn’t buy a dive light without good reviews.
It’s not about double o-rings, it’s about being properly designed for diving! It’s generally the design of the o-rings, glass thickness and the switch (either magnetic or twist).
If it has a single battery it’s not good for much other than occasional use during a dive. If you need it for the entire dive you will want two batteries in general especially if you are doing two dives from a boat.
It also depends on the type of diving you are doing but usually you are going to want a fairly focused beam otherwise all you get is backscatter.
I have a Chinese dive light that I have a hundred or so dives on. It’s the only one I can personally recommend.
I understand about double O-rings.
žBut as I read on that forum, even some western lights have mixed reviews, you know how’s with the internet. Everything is there :o
I saw that light on cnqualitychinagoods too.
To what depths you dive? (this have to stand at least 50 meters - this Im searching for)
I’ve had mine to 50 meters but I’m more comfortable with this light at 30 meters. I’d like it if the front lens was thicker otherwise I’m sure it would stand 100 meters.
The early versions of the light I have did eventually flood although most were fixable. The issue was the spring. It was too long and was preventing the bezel from screwing on tight enough to fully compress the o-ring.
Once we (the larger dive community that got this light) figured this out it was a simple fix. Just cut one coil off of the spring and it has worked fine ever sense.
My understanding is that the newer models already have a shorter spring.
I dive in dark, cold waters with limited visability generally in the 30 meter and somewhat depth range.
The makers of all of these dive lights appear to just be copying other lights. None of them appear to actually be divers so if a particular model happens to work well it’s just luck.
And what happens if it floods, will it kill the LED?
Now Im closest to buy 2 of those thanx to your recommendation (thanx!) or 1 this and XTAR DX06 as other light (to divide risk )
Im on the other hand also inclined to give up from ordering 2 diving flashlight for friend, because I dotn want to be responsible for possible flooding etc (he wont hold me specially responsible, but when I do somehing I like to do it well :o )
These light will be used in clear sea, daytime diving, and on 50 meters you obviously need some light because there is not much light at those depths…
PS: But on the other hand, this light also hasmixed reviews, and its little outdated .
Ecig, I do not lube before each dive. You don’t need to touch the front o-ring and those that are revealed when you change the battery don’t need lubing that often. Just be careful when you take the tail cap off and on so you don’t nick them.
I don’t personally think the MC-E is outdated in this application and that’s why I haven’t “upgraded”. Most of the newer models are potentially a little brighter but are floodier which isn’t a positive thing for diving.
This light is plenty bright in my opinion. My light flooded once before we figured out the spring problem but has never flooded since I fixed that.
If it floods it doesn’t kill the led however it could kill the driver but since the circuit lines are so thick it generally doesn’t.
If it floods you need to soak it in warm clean water right away, then flush it with alcohol which will evaporate and then blow it dry. You also clean the resulting “crud” on the circuit board with a pencil eraser.
After that mine and most others who had this problem were fine. If you wait too long and let the salt water corrode the circuit board you might have a problem.
Most people would assume that salt water would instantly kill the driver but the circuit board is built to handle higher currents than say something like a cell phone so in general it can handle flooding a time or two and the shorting out that results.