Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

Chatika_vas_Paus · August 14, 2018, 7:04am

Can anyone explain me why the head is spinning in this place? As for me, this reduce heat dissipation. Does it have sense?

JasonWW · August 14, 2018, 7:05am

Sofirn said it is a seperate switch and it will have notches in the base to make it easy to slide out. :+1:

JasonWW · August 14, 2018, 7:07am

They say right in the picture it is 5.9mm

JasonWW · August 14, 2018, 7:41am

It’s just like the S70 design. It’s more cost effective/easier to machine 2 pieces than one large one.

I can’t find the S70 cutaway, but here is the Kronos K70 cutaway which is very similar.

You can see the heavy influence in Sofirns design below.

…
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Agro · August 14, 2018, 7:22am

Oh, thanks for correction. I re-checked and now came up with about what they said.

everydaysurvivalgear · August 14, 2018, 7:48am

JasonWW:

Sofirn:

Once again to confirm other information. It’s much appreciated if anyone could help optimize for better reading.

1. size: 9cm big head, aluminum bezel
2. Smooth reflector, AR coated lens
3. LED: one XHP70.2, 5350-5700K emitter
4. 2*26650 long tube(sleeve for 21700),
5. tactical ring
6. Switch: tail forward clicky switch + side switch (with indicator as Q8)
7. Overheating Protection. Low Voltage Protection.
8. UI:
Tail switch to power on / cut off

Group 1 ( default )
When the light is on(the indicator on for 5s to show the battery power), press and hold the side switch, the brightness levels circle through low(50LM)-Med1(300LM)-Med2(1000LM)-High(3000LM), double click to Turbo(5000+LM), when encounter the brightness you need, release the side switch. Single click to Standby(the main led is off and the indicator is on), click again to turn on the main led. When on Standby, click the tail switch to cut off (indicator is off ), click tail switch again back to Standby, click side switch to turn on the main led. When the main led is on and you click the tail switch to cut off, click tail switch back on goes to the remembered brightness levels.

Group2 (Ramping)
When the light is on, long press to ramp, 2LM-5000+LM(150 levels, ramp from lowest to highest in 3 seconds, blink to remind reaching lowest or highest). Ramp again within 1.5s, reverse direction. Ramp again after 1.5s, keep the direction(same as Q8). Click to turn off the main led (Standby)

When the light is on or on Standby，double click to Turbo(5000+LM), click back to previous brightness or Standby.
When on Standby, long press(1s) to Moonlight(2LM), click back to Standby.
When on Standby, 4 fast clicks to lock out, another 4 click to activate.
When on Standby, 6 fast clicks to convert group, 2 blinks to confirm.
When on Standby, 8 fast clicks to Beacon (Lights up at 1000LM for half a second, pauses for 2 seconds, then repeats.) click goes back.

Indicator:
1.When light turn on, the indicator led shows Green or Orange or Red for 5 seconds to show power status. If the power is running out, indicator fast strobe in Red continuously.
2.When in Standby, the led is Green as locator in the dark. Click tail switch to cut off.

I’m glad they are using a SMO reflector. If anyone wants to add a bit of texture, I think Old Lumens had a technique of spraying clear paint on the reflector. It’s definitely easier to add texture than to remove it, as in making an OP into a SMO. That’s almost impossible.

Does the tail switch always turn on to standby?

I’m not sure if a 4 click electronic lockout is needed since you can use the tail switch for a mechanical lockout, but no big deal.

All the rest seems good to me.

Clean your reflector with alcohol that will turn it yellow real quick lol!

everydaysurvivalgear · August 14, 2018, 7:55am

Its probably debatable if this head design would effect heat transfer that much seeing as its so high up and there would need to be lots of heat soaking to send heat up that high at least with the output we are getting from this light stock.

I think we would prefer the head to be one piece and a thicker shelf but besides that it all seem good.

Sofirn could you please confirm what size MCPCB you are using?

everydaysurvivalgear · August 14, 2018, 8:02am

Any one know if the reflector length/depth is only 47.3mm? It seems a bit a short considering its 90mm in width? Maybe i am reading it wrong?

Yes i have heard it all before that the length/depth does not matter but it does when the reflector is so wide?

djozz · August 14, 2018, 9:02am

Why is the finning not where the heat is? This is one of those high power lights in which the heat path is a big deal, and Sofirn has little clue.

You need thick material near the source of the heat (the 6mm shelf and thick tube there is a good start but from there the heat has to pass thin material to faraway fins) spreading the heat quickly out in all possible directions via an as short and thick route as possible, and close to a series of good sized fins, thinning out further down the flashlight for dissipation from additional surface.

The light as it is now will need an unneccessary short stepdown time on turbo and has a lower sustainable level than possible.

JasonWW · August 14, 2018, 8:34am

The head is 90mm wide, not the reflector. I’m guessing the reflector inner width is closer to 77mm.

Yokiamy · August 14, 2018, 8:44am

+1

Exactly my idea Jos

everydaysurvivalgear · August 14, 2018, 8:50am

I thought they said the reflector is 90mm? Hmmm must of read it wrong. Even if its the head that is 90mm the reflector will be about 80mm.

L6 reflector is 66mm is width and about 50mm in depth so they are very different size and shape reflectors.

JasonWW · August 15, 2018, 3:40am

In flashlight design there are always compromises that have to be made. If it had ideal heat distribution and fins all around the the shelf area, you would have a really ugly light that would be difficult to hold and people wouldn’t want to buy it. So you have to find a balance.

What do you mean about “it will need an unneccessary short stepdown time on turbo”? You mean 10 seconds sooner? No light this size can cope with 100+ watts of heat for more than a minute or two anyway.

To me it’s like people complaining about a light making 5000 lumen instead of 5100 lumen. It seems so insignificant. It’s not like the shelf is 1mm think and the light has no mass. It looks beefy and I’m sure that at lower brightness levels the heat will eventually spread.

.

djozz · August 14, 2018, 9:27am

JasonWW:

djozz:

Why is the finning not where the heat is? This is one of those high power lights in which the heat path is a big deal, and Sofirn clearly has no clue.

You need thick material near the source of the heat (the 6mm shelf is a good start but from there it is all wrong) spreading the heat quickly out via an as short and thick route as possible to a series of good sized fins, and also further down the flashlight for dissipation from additional surface.

The light as it is now will need an unneccessary short stepdown time on turbo.

In flashlight design there are always compromises that have to be made. If it had ideal heat distribution and fins all around the the shelf area, you would have a really ugly light that would be difficult to hold and people wouldn’t want to buy it. So you have to find a balance.

What do you mean about “it will need an unneccessary short stepdown time on turbo”? You mean 10 seconds sooner? No light this size can cope with 100+ watts of heat for more than a minute or two anyway.

To me it’s like people complaining about a light making 5000 lumen instead of 5100 lumen. It seems so insignificant. It’s not like the shelf is 1mm think and the light has no mass. It looks beefy and I’m sure that at lower brightness levels the heat will eventually spread.

I mostly agree with you (I altered my post a bit because it was a bit harsher than intended), the light will perform just ok, but I just think that in designing a high power flashlight form follows function: you start with best performing design, you notice that it is ugly and heavy and unbalanced, and then you see how much shaving and altering you can get away with without sacrifying too much performance. That way I’m sure you end up with a good looking and balanced flashlight that has better performance than this light that is being designed the other way around.

MRsDNF · August 14, 2018, 10:19am

Thanks for the update Jason. That is a lot better design.

Jaded · August 14, 2018, 10:51am

I support the proposal/suggestion to use Maxtoch direct-thermal-pad MCPCB or any known suppliers of quality direct-thermal-pad MCPCB regardless of size. I hope it won’t be the same supplier of the 30 mm MCPCB that ships with the updated C8F. The quality of the board leaves much to be desired. I can attest by my own experience that this particular MCPCB is not very durable. The solder pads are very prone to breaking. I can only hope they won’t skimp on this one. Just saying.

SKV89 · August 14, 2018, 5:31pm

I agree, seems like a pretty bad design to have the heat transfer a good distance and through the threaded joint before it reaches the fins. I’m wondering is this more suitable for the 3x XHP70.2 setup where the emitter board will be mounted much higher and in contact with the upper head.

Yourrid · August 14, 2018, 5:53pm

SKV89:

djozz:

Why is the finning not where the heat is? This is one of those high power lights in which the heat path is a big deal, and Sofirn has little clue.

You need thick material near the source of the heat (the 6mm shelf and thick tube there is a good start but from there the heat has to pass thin material to faraway fins) spreading the heat quickly out in all possible directions via an as short and thick route as possible, and close to a series of good sized fins, thinning out further down the flashlight for dissipation from additional surface.

The light as it is now will need an unneccessary short stepdown time on turbo and has a lower sustainable level than possible.

I agree, seems like a pretty bad design to have the heat transfer a good distance and through the threaded joint before it reaches the fins. I’m wondering is this more suitable for the 3x XHP70.2 setup where the emitter board will be mounted much higher and in contact with the upper head.

The more I look at the threaded head, the less I like it. It looks great on the outside, but that threaded joint is going to do very VERY little for heat transfer. There are zero fins directly connected to the LED shelf; all the heat will have to go through the threads before it even touches a heat fin.

I would pay extra to have a solid, one piece head. If they every decide to use this same design for a 3x XHP70, they would probably have to redesign the entire head (unless they mounted the LED’s up very very high).

Yokiamy · August 14, 2018, 6:19pm

Yourrid:

SKV89:

djozz:

Why is the finning not where the heat is? This is one of those high power lights in which the heat path is a big deal, and Sofirn has little clue.

You need thick material near the source of the heat (the 6mm shelf and thick tube there is a good start but from there the heat has to pass thin material to faraway fins) spreading the heat quickly out in all possible directions via an as short and thick route as possible, and close to a series of good sized fins, thinning out further down the flashlight for dissipation from additional surface.

The light as it is now will need an unneccessary short stepdown time on turbo and has a lower sustainable level than possible.

I agree, seems like a pretty bad design to have the heat transfer a good distance and through the threaded joint before it reaches the fins. I’m wondering is this more suitable for the 3x XHP70.2 setup where the emitter board will be mounted much higher and in contact with the upper head.

The more I look at the threaded head, the less I like it. It looks great on the outside, but that threaded joint is going to do very VERY little for heat transfer. There are zero fins directly connected to the LED shelf; all the heat will have to go through the threads before it even touches a heat fin.

I would pay extra to have a solid, one piece head. If they every decide to use this same design for a 3x XHP70, they would probably have to redesign the entire head (unless they mounted the LED’s up very very high).

Exactly my idea, thats why i voted for an adapted S70 design, more aluminium, better fins, better heatsink.

joechina · August 15, 2018, 12:29am

User Interface
It reads like the one from the Sofirn SP32A v2
(v2 has a newer quick ramping) I have one and its verry close to NarsilMs ramping, but with one fixed mode set. I like that UI.

Top off the ramp and TURBO
I would suggest to make the top of the ramp 50% output and with a double click you get TURBO with 100%
Keeps the lamp cooler and you lose not too much of light. GTmini does the same. I like this: Ramp up to see if i get enough light on an object and if not, boom, a bit of extra light.