I would also pay more for a quality design. I rather have one really good flashlight than many mediocre ones and I was hoping this would be a REALLY GOOD flashlight.
I don’t know why so many are complaining about heat paths. The S70 has the same two piece head and I don’t remember anyone complaining about heat not going through the threads, etc…
I know everydaysurvivalgear has an S70, maybe some others here as well, can you guys please comment on the heat transfer to the fins.
BTW, this is the same heat path etc… as the K70 which everyone was so eager to buy. In fact, the SP70 looks like it has a slightly better heat path than the K70.
I will suggest a few changes that seem doable without adding too much weight. This includes some of ZozzV6’s ideas.
I see 4 points that can be altered.
1. I’m not sure if this will help at all, maybe. It may add too much weight too far from the center of gravity.
2. Increasing the thread contact here seems to be an easy way to help heat flow.
3. Here is an easy place to add a little mass and is close to the center of gravity. It can be a step shape or a triangle section in the corner depending on what is best for the cutting tool used.
4. Making the shelf thicker is also an easy place to add mass, assuming it doesn’t interfere with any driver components. It should also not upset the balance.
There was exact this discussion in the S70 thread about the heat path being inadequate: fins far away and heat having to pass through threads to reach the fins. The solution was some beefing up of material near the led but I see that as a fix of a mediocre design instead of starting over with a good design.
Yea that is where the shelf is so it will spread out there first then go up and down which inhibits cooling. They would really need to move the switch down to make cooling better.
For the record, I don’t let my lights get burning hot. I usually limit them to about 45°C/113°F. If they start to feel hot, I adjust the output down a little.
Are the people that don’t like the predicted heat flow, the ones that allow their light to run extended times at the upper temp limit? Maybe this is why I don’t understand their attitude about the SP70 design.
Personally, I don’t even need cooling fins. I’d rather have a bigger mass so that the heat crept up more slowly.
That edition of the S70 was never made so we will not know how adequate it was. And even if it was made there would not be a version with the material and fins in the correct place to compare it with.
I’m not talking about designs being adequate, I’m sure that the current design will light up and give a bucket-full of light that will throw a mile. I’m even not sure if an improved design with fins and heat path perfectly positioned would perform way better, perhaps only a little even. I’m talking about starting with what you know about performance instead of just drawing something that looks nice.
What I like in designing flashlights is starting with ideas on how performance should be optimal, building prototypes and testing if the performance is there, then improving and testing again, adding features and dropping features based on the tests. While building the Q8 we did not have the luxury of testing different designs but at least we started out with what at that point to our knowledge were the key features of a good performance.
An example of a good thermal design I think is the Olight X7 Marauder (I do have one of those). It can maintain a great output for a surprising amount of time considering how lightweight it is. It tells me that it has the exact amount of material at the right place (and no surplus material where it is not needed) that works together with a great thermal feedback mechanism. The only way that that could have been achieved is clever design, prototypes and testing testing testing.
I know that Thorfire and Sofirn are not Olight, and do not expect finetuned thermal feedback mechanisms, but some basic application of how heat transfers is easy enough.
It took Narsil a longtime to implement this (on NarsilM v1.2). I don’t think it’s something Sofirn can easily add. It might be too complex.
There is nothing really wrong with not having it. You just ramp up to the the max, then back down for a second. I’ve done this for over a year on my work light L6.
Plus there are times when I prefer to ramp it a bit higher than normal due to the batteries being low. A 50% setting would be kind of too dim.
Well you could go with 60.
The bump on th Haikelite MT09R, which has also a 50% ramp as the GTmini, feels like +30% more not double. Weras a 80%ramp to 100% on the GT is very little.