mfm, send them an email about the damage they tend to fix problems.
I don't know much about them, and I don't own either, but from from what I can tell the L2P has better anodizing and has a tailstandable switch. The L2 doesn't.
The L2P is coated in a harder wearing finish called HAIII so it will be a little more scratch resistant.
The bezel is a lot less aggresive on the L2P which makes it rather more pocket friendly.
The L2P has a recessed switch so it can tailstand.
Overall the L2P is finished a bit better than the L2
L2P - http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=7&id=17
L2 - http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=1&id=19
L2P style switch - http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=18&id=125
L2 Syle switch -http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=18&id=61
:)
The differences between the L2 and L2p is the coating they use on the body. the L2 has a shinier finish and the L2p has a duller more stronger finish HAIII. the only other difference is the tailcap and bezel they use. the L2ps allows it to tail stand and has a lower profile crenalated bezel.
Has internal coating , and is manufactured to tighter tolerances , has a different clicky switch .
If you think about cars , there is a base model , and then there are upgrades . The L2P is a upgraded L2 , which is why P stands for Professional .
HA3 and L2 has softer HA2 finish ,
Fit and finish on L2P is to a higher standard than the L2 ..
Different clicky switch
And tailstands
+ Knurling matches on body and tailcap
If you want more ? Its there if you want it in the L2P
I think Solarforce got a little tired of some folks saying the Surefire P6 was so much better , they brought out a model that could match it in tolerances . [ I'm guessing ]
Are you sure? Should I buy AR Coated lens from KD? (someone suggested not so long ago, for a little bit more than 2 bucks)
You could very well be right , It might be just straight glass .. I had some AR coated lenses , but have lost track of which lights have them ..
Will correct the post ,
I will have to order one , so I can compare ...
I think it is next to impossible to tell a coated lens from a non coated lens unless you have some special optical testing equipment.
Well I should probably not be that strong; you might be able to pick up peripheral glare on a non-coated lens that is visible, if you place the lens on a dark object under the right lighting conditions.
But In real life, you will be hard-pressed to tell the difference in a flashlight. A camera, maybe, a flashlight, no.
About 90% of the time you can easily test to see if a lens is coated or not.
If you hold the lens so you can see the reflection of a white light on the lens if it is coated it will almost always be colour shifted and often noticably dimmer than a plain lense.
"A0917"
So about 600 in a year, dosn't seem like very many...but I suppose they haven't been availlable and ofc might not really be individually numbered at all :P
they did a post your reg at CPF , and there were no duplicates that Im aware of ...
If you like you could start a L2P registry ? 
+ The L2P grey has not been available for a very long time .. Im not sure what the L2P blacks are up to .. 2000+ ???
Yeah , I would have thought they would have sold more by now ? But I guess the early prices just scared off the budget crowd , and the other crowd will only buy more expensive lights , so a small group of people , are the only ones to know L2P goodness ...
My two black L2Ps are numbered A3378 and A3431 and the Olive L2P is A0643. All were bought in the last couple months.
I don't have an L2 yet, but after seeing all of Foy's nice photos I may have to get one - if only to better appreciate the L2P goodness!
As good as solarforce is .. their site has some real flaws when it comes to accurately explaining their lights , their hosts etc ..I find them to be one of the better dealers and a great product , good pictures...they just don't finish it well .. there's a bit of confusion left on their site ..i think if they made it easier for the newbie or for everyone to navagate and undrstand the products and options their sales would increase drasticly . I stared at a conventer for a long tome and thought huh?? what the hell does that even mean ?? someone with a good grasp of the english language would make life easier .
Not to be picky but for sheer information purposes:
HAIII is incorrect
It is either HA anodized or Type III anodized (same thing) not HAIII. I know i'm being picky but it's better to share correct knowledge rather that learning incorrect terms.
For those who like a better explanation:
Anodizing is a process of oxidizing the the surface of aluminum (usually, for flashlights) to provide a surface that is more resistant to wear and corrosion, while also providing a better surface for coloring. Better flashlights feature Type III anodizing (also called hard anodizing, "HA," or kind of redundantly, "HA III") which provides a thicker, less porous coat of aluminum oxide that is more deeply embedded in the base aluminum than Type II anodizing (there is no such thing as HA II, all hard anodizing is Type III). The anodizing is done by using the aluminum as a positive electrode (anode) in a bath of sulfuric acid. As oxygen forms on the anode, a coating of hard aluminum oxide is formed on the surface. This coating increases the thickness of the aluminum and is integral with the aluminum itself and therefore is resistant to chipping or peeling. Coloring is added later (supposedly not many dyes can be used with HA III which is why flashlights are either natural or black, but HA III flashlights have been showing up in a lot of different colors lately). See Wikipedia Anodizing for more information as well at this CPF thread. Anodizing does not conduct electricity, therefore parts of flashlights that must conduct from one piece to another will intentionally lack anodizing on threads or on the end of a tube in order to get metal-to-metal contact
Some read for Type I vs Type II anodizing:
http://www.compositesworld.com/articles/type-i-versus-type-ii-anodizing
I completely agree. When I was ordering the L2i, their description had me believing an 18650 and/or 2 x CR123 would drop in there slick as an L2P. And, about those "conventers." A while back I bought the "L2 black body with 2 pc 18650 extenor SET." The picture shows a shiny black L2 with what appear to be two shiny black "conventors." When my package arrived I found a shiny black L2 and two 18650 extensions finished in the same type III anno as the L2P. Would look stupid on an L2. Not a problem if you have a few L2Ps (who, me?) but the extra tubes do look shiny in the picture.
itiswhatitisFoy
100% agreed!
For me Solarforce is rather new and I must say with the info on the SF site is a bit confusing for me.
But I just ordered my first "real" grey L2P body and after a few hours, a person named Jo send me a email with the confirmation that this L2P already is being shipped!
Great service I think!?
Also ordered at the same time the well known Ultrafire T6 module for this grey L2P body.
Hope that the original SF tailswitch can handle the +3 amps current 
For to be sure, the L2P body has already the tailswitch and the lens and just need a exclusive drop-in, I suppose?
Sorry for my bad English, hope you guys understand what I want to say...
Yeah, Boaz, I just think that it's a bad copy-paste 
Sometimes they just copy a generic description and then modify it.
@thommy
Same configuration on the way 
And yes, you only need a P60 drop-in ;)
Very nice
How to upgrade registered shipping when ordering from solarfoce-sales.com? anyone?