I'd have gone for that one if I'd noticed it. That is a good deal if they actually go for that price - about 98 cents a shot for branded cells. I'd certainly be checking them with a voltmeter though.
How difficult would it be to swap the driver with something more suitable for an 18650? If thats possible, can someone please measure the driver so I can see whats available?
From a quick look, it wouldn't be the easiest thing to get the pill out. It is more than 17mm by the look of things. When I get some pics taken, it may be clearer.
I found this pic on CPF. Its to bad because this would have been a great light (for me) if it didnt require primaries to achieve full power. Im trying to "go green." 
Strange - I just tried holding a Skyline I reflector in front of Skyline II emitter and it seems to focus better than the Skyline I itself...!
At least 1 meter from the wall the hotspot is tighter...
EDIT: Can you verify something? When you turn on the light holding the switch, just before it starts to dim, for an instant it goes brighter.
With some skill you can let go off the switch at that moment to keep it at that maximum level.
Same when it goes from dim to bright, at the last moment it goes a bit dimmer and stays there.
Strange :)
Also - the PWM at minimum is crazily unbearable... I guess around 20 Hz ;)
Got my skyline II and this is a really nice light for the money. I like the simplicity and flexibility of the UI and the clicky is just as Don described…easy/not that much resistance but yet still a positive feel. The beam has some ringyness in it but for the price I can live with it.
Unlike many, I don’t think this light is ugly as I like the look. The size is basically identical to my Eagletac T100c2 and from what I could tell with my brief tree top test, it does not appear to throw as far as the eagletac but it does have very good through and more spill.
Don't like the knurling though - it is too sharp and makes me want to wear gloves.
Here are some pics of no particular merit.
Hound not happy with me as I gave her a bath. Then wrapped her in towels and an old bedcover to let her recover.
Now I've got that out of my system, here are some pics of the light.
With the sling that actually works better than expected
The scratches on the door were from the hound one day when she was desperate to get out while I was at work.
I like the way it tells you the maximum voltage where you can't miss it. It is a lot brighter, and shorter running with a pair of primaries than with an 18650. Runs for around 3 hours on an 18650 and about an hour on a pair of primaries. Not my runtime tests.
It is quite large for an 18650 light - but then it needs to be for that monster reflector.
L-R Piritlight SG-L8, the dreaded and scarred Uniquefire HS-802, Solarforce Skyline 1, an Ultrafire C3 SS and an Aurora SH-034 head to head, Lunapower MRV SE
It is a very nice switch and the multimode stuff is only there if you want it to be. Otherwise it is a nice and easy single mode.
Other end of the tailcap. This thing is very nicely made.
The business end.
The body - the smooth bit with the pill in it does come off but it doesn't want to just now. Must have been doing a Popeye after spinach act when I put it back together after lubing. Applying great force with your hands on that knurling is painful. Apparently Tiablo use the same threads and some speculate that these came out of the Tiablo factory as the tube is interchangeable with the Tiablo ACE10 and uses the same knurling. The ACE10 costs quite a lot.
Field stripped. Note the screwed in retaining ring for the glass. You could mix drinks in that reflector!
And finally, in my left hand.
Thanks for the great pics and comparison. How difficult would a driver swap be? Id bite if I could drive it hard on 1 x 18650.
I'd think it'd be trickier than most. The dimming circuitry is all in the tailcap and the driver may also be in there - but I'm not certain of that. Someone on CPF - can't now find the thread - put the tailcap on an ACE-G and it fitted and worked. Including the dimming and strobe.
Some people have used a pair of RCR cells in it, but his is not likely to improve its longevity - I'd be inclined to heed the max voltage warning.
I think it'd be hard to do a driver swap on this one as it may be in the tailcap.
Thanks for the warnings and looking into that for me. I think I'll pass on this one for now.
@Don - can you have a look at my post #94 and see if your light works the same (dimming and PWM)?
Can't do so just now as internet access is via a phone and the light is 200km from here but will try when I get home in about a week. The cable internet connection broke this afternoon just after I arrived. :-(
The cable guy came and fixed it. Then I discovered I had the light with me.
I can't see the dimming issue - mine just gets dimmer or brighter, but the PWM on lowest levels is very obtrusive. Since it is mostly going to be used at full brightness, this doesn't bother me much.
Hm... strange. It exists on both my Skylines.
It's veeeery short - like a tenth of a second - and only noticable when wallhunting. I would graph it, but I don't have a meter.
Is this with primary cells or an 18650? I wonder if the behaviour might be different. Mine is eating CR123s just now.
Yup, could be - I used only 18650. Will verify as soon as I get some CR123s.
I tried it with an 18650 and am not seeing it. I'll try it on a meter once I get home next week but suspect that their temporal resolution isn't that great so it may not see it. Lab grade meters are a lot more money than I've got....
Does yours ramp up brightness from lowest to highest very quickly? Mine takes less than a second. Maybe about 4 seconds from high-low but very much less from low-high.
Mine does the same thing as yours. If you let go of the button (when going from dim to bright) as soon as it reaches maximum brightness(before the slight dimming), when you go from bright to dim again, it doesn't do the momentary brighter before dimming. Seems like it goes into a lower pwm mode if you hold the button in for a second after it has already reached max pwm.
@Don - mine is 1,5s till it starts ramping, then ~2s to arrive at the other end of the range. Same time both ways.
@atlas - thank you, I started to wonder about my mental health ;)
So it seems there are driver differences... maybe that's why the lights are on sale :)
Just a quick heads up: solarforce-sales currently has the Skyline 1 on sale for $33.99 plus shipping ($2 to the US; might be world-wide) and the Skyline 2 for $36.99 plus shipping.
IIRC the Skyline 1 was $27 when ITC had it on sale last July but $36 is still a pretty good deal in my book.