Take a look at the TS100, the direct heat tip style is vastly superior to the old FX888D. You can even use the tips from the Hakko FX951 if youd like…
Who makes the TS100? Do you have a link?
Edit: I found this.
https://www.amazon.com/UY-CHAN-Programmable-Pocket-size-Acceleration/dp/B01MDTO6X7
Check out my previous post, my review contains all necessary links (use google translate, it’s in German).
I’ve done a bit of research into the “budget” Metcals, and actually they look pretty good. I was dubious because I can be a bit cynical, but I withdraw my doubts. Ten years ago I would had to have paid £1000 each for much the same thing.
I’d say well worth the £200. They would be good enough for most work, and the choice of tips is almost overwhelming. IME the tips also last forever, if you don’t wreck them by e.g. scrubbing on those pads made of metal swarf (the secret weapon designed to make you keep buying tips). And changing them is a doddle, a minute later and you are good to go.
The same induction heating of the tip, at about 450 kHz, albeit 60W not 80. But that is still plenty. The power is delivered to the induction coil in the handle through co-ax, with a BNC connector to the base, a signature feature of a Metcal.
The top-end jobs are getting very fancy, with thermal monitoring during the soldering cycle, LED indication of a satisfactory joint, even networked in for SPC etc.
Here are some random links to specifications:
Budget (PS900): https://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/85-7100_v1.pdf
High-End (CV5200), which also drives two irons simultaneously. You probably don’t have a use-case for this one. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2611083.pdf?
Can you comment on why you’d pay twice what a Pace ADS200 sells at for a Metcal?
i am using TS100, it heats up very fast, about 30s or lower depending on your supply, can use battery so working on field is no problem
if weller makes something smaller like that, not with a big box, i will give it a try
Metal is 2.5 times the price of an ADS200 in the UK.
I have no personal experience with a Pace, or pretty much anything else. Because I don’t need another iron myself, and I don’t even do much consulting nowadays.
All that I can say, if considering kitting up a factory, is that things like Metcal just work, no calibration required, and they last forever (perhaps ultimately a design flaw, built in obsolescence doesn’t seem to be understood there).
I’ve never known of one fail.
And at the prices I am seeing for the basic ones, they look like a bargain (but what do I know ?)
“Solder stations” with twiddly knobs, LED displays showing dubious data, etc. just confuse. How is anybody supposed to use these things unless they have almost infinite time to mess about with properly designed experiments, and eventually conclude that they are no better than a really well designed iron, set at one temperature, with an operator who knows how to use it.
Learn how to use something basic but fundamentally correct, with no possibility of operator error, mis-control.
Or jump on the “so many features, look at the LED display options, watch the youtube reviews, and maybe even try soldering some simple stuff. (Usually grossly bad, on youtube).
A related question:
Does anybody here happen to own both a name brand station like a Hakko FX888D or an equivalent Weller, and one of the budget stations?
I ultimately decided I was buying a tool that should serve my hobby purposes for decades, and spent the modest amount extra on the Hakko, but am still rather curious if anyone has much experience comparing the budget models to those known to be of good quality.
I think the integrated heater style tips are the way to go compared to the tips that slip on over the heating element.
So something like the Hakko 951, but without the $200 price and ridiculously confusing user interface.
I might try out a KSGER style station with blue handle for $57. I can get 7 additional tips for $20.
This is not what you call a “super reliable” design. There is a decent chance some part of it may not work, but it’s fully modular and you can get any parts you need for them. All the great features and low price helps me see past any potential issues.
It’s got a really short “tip to grip” making the iron very controllable compared to the TS100. The software features are huge if you choose to go into the menu. Want to turn off the internal buzzer? Done. Easy to set temps, easy to go to sleep mode, easy to get a 50°C power boost, auto shutoff in case you forget to turn it off, internal tip calibration if you need it, lots of dubious data on the front screen like power usage percentage. 
If the tips are not great performers, I can always buy some genuine Hakko tips once I know the shapes I like.
I purchased a Pace ADS200 after all this hype on here and eevblog. It heats the tip to 750f in less than 10 seconds from a cold start.
They didn’t have the instant set back stand when I purchased mine. With some research I found out the stands are identical besides a switch that gets activated when you lay the iron in the holder. I added a very light pressure mechanical switch to mine wired it to the din in the back and now it operates with the instant set back. Nice feature and settable in the software. If I had it to do again though, the $20 bucks extra for the instant set back is well worth it, if they’re in stock.
Since this thread is about soldering irons, I’ll link to some of my videos talking about soldering tips. I tried out a new iron several months ago and it didn’t perform very well soldering blobbing some 18650’s. I did a video on that too if anyone is interested. At first I thought my iron temp was not high enough, this was my first time with this iron, then I thought there was something wrong with the iron.
Some folks clued me in about these cheap removable tips and how they are not very good. I switched over to some genuine Hakko tips from Frys Electronics. These do perform better, but I can tell the heat isn’t flowing as fast as it should. This is why I’m going to try some tips with integrated heaters.
Here I sliced open one of the cheap tips to show the lack of contact for heat to flow.
If I convert over to the integrated heater style iron, I’ll cut open one of my least used Hakko tips to see how it compares to the generic tips.
I just upgraded old Weller magnastat to Xytronic lf-2000 https://www.reichelt.com/at/en/digital-processor-soldering-station-100-watt-esd-station-lf-2000-p89344.html?&trstct=pol_4
and couldn’t be happier for the decision.
This spiral wool thingy is also much better to use for cleaning tip than those dirty sponges. Longer tip life also.
This is mine. I like having a digital display and knowing the exact temperature. The cords are on the heavier side but they are high quality rubber and flexible. Less than 60.00 as well.
Stahl DDSS
I use a 80W Hakko FX-888D and have no problems with soldering blobs on battery, even 26650 form. I use a lot of no clean flux, big tip - 5mm chisel, more heat than usual (around 370 I guess) and fast double taps on battery positive, which makes a 63/37 solder flowing nicely, creates a strong bond to the surface and prevents overheating the cell. Works for me like this
Shouldn’t 370°C (698°F) be good universal temperature? I’m using it almost all the time.
For a small stuffs - soldering wires on a driver, small pcb etcc - I use around 320-330 and smaller tips. I don´t usualy go below 320 and above 380 celsius degrees. Definetely use a lead solder for hobby purposes, do not mess with no lead one ,which has a lot higher melting point. But there are more experienced guys, they might recommend some little different approach to you.
It was surprise for me that they don’t sell lead solder for private customers anymore in Finland (Thanks EU!)
This law came couple of moths ago.
Luckily not problem for me, but never going to use those alternatives before someone proves longer life for them.
Sorry for offtopic…
That’s why I bought a few 1lb (~½kg) spools of real honest-to-B’harni Sn/Pb solder last year, in case this insanity drifted over the ocean to the US.
This big time!!! Save up and get a quality solder station it will save soooo much headache in the long run. I solder keyboards, headphone amps, and RC stuff all the time. I tried three cheap ones and it seemed they were mostly all horrible at temp management, most wouldn’t last but a few little projects than start having issues. After dealing with all the issues and the cheap tips that come with the cheaper irons I bought a Hakko and have never looked back. Quality tips wonderful at coming up to temp and staying at temp properly without having to stop soldering for the stupid iron to come back up to temp.
I don’t want to sound rude but I also tried to grab just a basic one in hopes of being decent in the long run my friend I spent more trying to make them decent than just buying a good one.
Also be sure and go ahead and pickup a Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker, works like a dream.