Tailcap switch replacement for my SureFire G3 Nitrolon...

Off-topic Chatter
1

The SureFire warranty clearly states they won't cover a switch problem:

Lamps will burn out, batteries will be used up, and switches may eventually wear out.
Almost everything else is covered by our no-hassle warranties:

I say... eventually???? I used my SureFire less than five hours and the tailcap switch stopped working (it's locked up, you can't push it at all).

Since the supposedly-great SureFire won't cover this problem, does anyone here have some advice on what I can do or buy to fix this light?

I need a tailcap switch that will work on this light.

Thanks.

2

Surefire won't cover a worn switch, but they will probably cover one that is stuck. Same thing happened with my Pelican; I called them, they knew exactly what the problem was and sent me a new tailcap and switch in two days.

Make sure the switch is not in lockout mode before you call them...

3

Will a Solarforce switch fit? It would be metal on plastic but if it works...

4

They don't cover the bulb(emitter), batteries or switches.

So the warranty only covers what? The driver circuitry and an aluminum tube?

That's a pretty paltry 'almost everything else'. Especially for that kind of premium.

5

SUREFIRE TAILCAP SWITCH FIX

Hey there, I think I just experienced the same problem with my work-issue SureFire L4. The light got switched on in my pocket for about 10 min, got very hot and then the tailcap switch didn't want to push (I got the momentary-on to work intermittently but it would not click to stay on).

I'm no expert and I'm sure these switches vary in design, but here's how I fixed my L4:

1) Use a pair of needle-nose pliers (I used a Leatherman) and fit the tips of the nose of the plier arms into the two small slots on either side of the rubber tail cap. I had to angle the tool at about a 45 degree angle to get the tips of the pliers to fit into the slots. While being careful not to squeeze or tear the rubber portion, apply pressure and unscrew the ring that fits inside the back of the tailcap.

2) Remove the rubber portion and set aside. Remove the plastic switch assembly. There should be a slot on either side with a small bent metal strip going into each slot (these are the switch contacts - normally when you push the switch it locks a small circular disc down across these two contacts). Look for evidence of melting/burning on the plastic around those slots (I had a fair amount of melted plastic around 1 of the two slots).

3) Look for the seam near the top of the plastic switch (where the two plastic pieces of the frame should be glued together). Use the edge of a sharp knife and slowly wedge the edge of the blade in between the two parts. Work your way around until you can remove the plastic cap.

4) Inside you will find two plastic pieces that work like the click/lock portion of a ballpoint pen and a spring (like a miniature mattress spring). Make sure these look like they still fit together well (fit smoothly together, not burned/distorted) and maybe clean them a bit before setting them aside.

5) Now remove the small metal tube/contact disc and the small skinny spring inside (this spring will be greased with a material that's probably non-conductive - try to keep the grease on there and free of debris).

6) Now that everything is out, check the path of the disc into the body of the switch. Make sure there are no obstructions to block the metal tube/contact disc you just removed from going down (in my case it was a gob of melted plastic). Carefully remove or cut away any obstructions, taking care not to alter or damage the small metal post inside.

7) Make sure that the metal contact strips are clean (alcohol or acetone on a q-tip works well) and make sure the metal tube/contact disc can slide easily down into the body of the switch to the point it touches the contact strips on both sides. Reassemble and you're done. If anything was not salvageable, you will unfortunately need to get a replacement from SureFire. Good luck!