if you look at the 2nd beamshot pic you can see the wall on the side on how much spill it creates. Any incoming car from the other side is gonna be disturbed 
Unfortunately I can’t get any of your pictures to show, but I can see the video. Based on that alone, I can tell there is at least one problem. Instead of your low beams illuminating that guy from the waist down, you can only see from his ankles down.
Can you even see cars ahead of you on the road?
It also looks like the left side kicks up, but I believe in Malaysia you guys drive on the left side of the road, right? So this would be normal.
I’ll send you my email and you can attach the photos to that so I can see them. I can then post them using my photo bucket account. If you want.
I’ve fixed the pics.
The height are optimum without glaring front cars. I’ve tried sitting inside the blue car “with badly scratched dirty window” to see how bad the glare is.
It is best if I had it shining slightly lower when the distance is one car away. Any higher then the spill would be too direct and besides that a huge gap from this mains to fog lamp.
Maybe I’ll try bringing the lamps up one day to see how well it illuminates the road. For now it is plenty far and bright (Most importantly it throws further than stock incans)
In Malaysia we drive on the left so yea the left kicks up.
wow that’s reallly lacking in width and distance
You shouldn’t be checking glare from that car on the left. Looks black to me, but I guess it’s blue?
That car is in the wrong position. You will never get oncoming traffic from your left. You should check the beam height for cars on the right side of the road, like where that blue tarp is on the ground.
In general, I think they are aimed a bit too low, but if you can see fine then that’s okay by me. Cars on the left will definetly not get any glare. I’m glad you care about that. So many people don’t, they just go around blinding everyone.
It would still be nice to see the lights shining on a solid wall from 35 or 45 feet just to see the shape and how sharp the cutoff line is. Those big emitters seem bright, but I’m guessing they don’t match the stock beam pattern?
This is an H4 bulb as well.
The big round emitters seem to give you a really weird pattern.
They are not even close. I wouldn’t recommend anyone buy those style lights.
The best way to compare them is to put the stock H4 bulbs in, shine them on a wall to see the shape, then put the LED lights in and do the same. Then you can see the beam pattern differences very clearly.
Definitely not true. A properly aimed lamp with a sharp cutoff can have excessive glare in real world use.
http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/transportation/pdf/NITSA/vanderlofskebulloughNHTSAworkshop.pdf
Nice, I like automotive headlight topics like this.
I used a retrofit 10/20 watt Hi-Lo beam MIC LED in my old scooter (55watt equivalent). It was very bright and extremely glaring until I made an aluminum deflector. Don’t have the pic as I sold the scooter in 2015. The weakness was the fan used to cool the bulb, didn’t last more than a year (changed it when it started noisy). With proper IP67 high quality fan like Sunon or SunAce the life time could be improved.
I posted the result in CPF but got deleted or moved by the moderator I think.
- Clemence
If they used higher quality fans then it could be the way to go, but it’s still a failure point. There just aren’t many other ways to dissipate heat passively under the hood of a car.
If I ever get my Ford Aspire up and running again I might drop in some brighter LED lights. The lights in that thing seem no brighter than a 60W incandescent and point straight at the ground.
I don’t see many blue-tinged lights anymore. It seemed like a fad a few years ago, because “blue” was “brighter.” I’d never put LEDs on my car higher than 5500k. I’m not someone who often cares about CRI, but I feel high CRI and an extra 1000 lumens would go a long way to helping me see clearly at night or during inclement weather.
Let’s build one, make it a BLF edition. I have some frozen ideas and CAD models.
I have some high quality IP65 mini fan samples (various model). Tested underwater with no problem. Rated 20k-50k hours, depends on type (axial or centrifugal)
YES! Let’s get a BLF headlight! Are you going to run the group buy thread? 
What group buy? If you mean this headlight, OMD I have no skills to make one ATM.
I was talking about designing one using our collective brain power here. Any contributors play their own set role.
Yeah, we can design one, but we still need to be able to have it made. Then we need to be able to buy it. Hence the “group buy” that I mentioned. Come on! You can do it! :innocent:
Okay, technically it’s not true, but there are many factors that are out of our hands. You can get glare from street lights, neon signs, atmospheric conditions such as light fog or dust, even glare reflecting off the road surface.
But in a real world sense, as vehicle owners, all we can do is not put extra light into
A. Oncoming traffics eyes
B. The rear view mirrors of vehicles in front of us.
I don’t want to get all technical, just keep it simple. When I say prevent glare I mean keep light out of other drivers eyes.
Here’s a quick review of the 9007 kit I just got yesterday.
I can’t recommend these, at least not in the 9007 version.
On the plus side it was pretty bright. Compared to my old set of leds using luxeon zes chips (measured 2700 lumen, I forgot the 10x multiplier on my earlier posts). Last week I measured 2500, I’m not sure why this week is a bit brighter.
This new set measured 2100 lumen. Not bad considering the ones I tested a week ago only put out 600 lumen.
The main issue with these is that the emitters are not in the right place. They need to be deeper in the reflector. I even removed the set screw and pushed them in about 1mm extra and you could see the pattern starting to get more focused, but it’s still way off. I don’t see any way to get the emitters any deeper. So these will be going back.
Now it’s possible Le that this style bulb and chips will perform better in a different size light, like H4 or 9006, etc… They have good brightness, it’s just a matter of putting the light source in the right spot.
Cut the MCPCB, but if it’s non DTP then this will make those tiny CSP LED so much hotter judging from how far off it’s from the OEM position.
Mod it BLF way: 2 x 10mm sinkpad should fit the space. Loos like they’re wired in 2s3p
I’m gonna keep looking for a better kit.
If I had to mod it, I would just move the mcpcb forward to the correct position and drill new holes through it for the hold down screws, then extend the wires down in the base.
I think that would work, but it voids the warranty of course.
There were 4 different kits in 9007 size that looked pretty good (bright chips, no fan, correct looking emitter position). I’ve tried 2, but there are still 2 more to go.
Let us (me) know when you find a good 9007 LED replacement… I’ve been looking, nothing yet that isn’t like what you’ve just outlined… focus is horrible.
Keep in mind only 3 of the 6 you see light up at one time. They appear to be 3p with the positive traces on the outer sides and they share a common ground in the middle.
It uses 2 mcpcb on each side of an aluminum frame. It also has thermal paste.
A look at the driver circuit. I can’t see much without taking it further apart.
I will. My brothers truck also uses 9007 and he’s always complaining about the poor visability. He wants a led kit for it as well.