I really like the ridged cooling fins. I had almost similar 9007 (2013 version) but with 2 XMLs on each side. Horrible focus, dangerous glare at any point in front of the vehicle. The 3A buck driver also only 70% efficient = even more heat. That pedestal will run extremely hot (>70C in my case). Had you try it?
Have I tried what?
Powering it on for relatively long hours (in your headlight assembly). Any problems?
No. It only takes a minute to fiddle with the aiming and it just doesn’t get close to focused. I did have it on for a few minutes and the black heatsink got quite hot, but I don’t have a good way to measure the temps.
I recieved my 3rd set of lights today.
They are brighter than the 2nd set and actually match the output of my originals even though it only has 3 Philips Luxeon ZES chips per side (my originals used 4 Philips Luxeon ZES chips per side). That’s great! I guess it’s pushing the 6 total low beam emitters a bit harder than the 8 total emitters. Lumen output is the same so I’m guessing total wattage and heat are probably very close. Maybe a tad higher.
The only issue is the emitters are not in the right spot. It’s exactly the same location as set 2. About 3 or 4 mm too far back. (I’m doing this on my phone and have difficulty making a straight line, hence the green banner)
Unlike the 2nd set, I think this 3rd set can be made to work by trimming the plastic 9007 mount and sliding the bulb forward.
Notice the tapered edge. I think I can cut the same angle in the plastic to move the bulb forward. It has dual o-ring seals which will keep it dry. I don’t think I could do this same mod on the 2nd set with its black heatsink.
I realize this thread is primarily concerned with the front end, but I wanna talk about the rear end! 
Two of my vehicles use 7440 bulbs for reverse lights. I want more output without installing auxiliary lights.
Most LED replacements I’ve found have poor reviews and/or 6000K tint. I want neutral/warm.
Anyone have experience with 7440 LED replacements?
Mine takes 921s (looks like a similar base), and I got these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3GBRQ2/
and am pretty happy with them.
Definitely not warm, but nice and bright. Claims 800lm, never measured them, but wouldn’t surprise me.
Dunno if you’ll ever find true WW (rare) or NW (nonexistent). Most WW would be stacked 5050s on a 194 base (which is what I’m using for my interior lights, haha).
Nice thing about these is that my backup reflectors are long and narrow, and these are oriented that way, so I get a really nice spread of light. At first I wasn’t happy with the lux compared to hotwire bulbs, but when I noticed these were floodier and threw more light overall, I changed my tune.
JDM generally has cutting-edge stuff, way brighter than competitive stuff. Pricey, but worth it.
Thanks for the suggestion, LB.
I suppose I can tolerate 6000K for a few seconds at a time.
I ordered two pairs of these from JDM ASTAR, which claim 1300 lumens per bulb.
I’ll report back when I get them installed.
Looks interesting, definitely report back.
I was able to make my 3rd set of lights work. These measure 4 times the lux of the stock bulbs.
I used my “dremel” tool to cut out the plastic retaining ring in order to slide it on further. I had to cut more than I originally thought.
Stock location:
New location:
The plastic base slides all the way down flush with the tapered edge of the aluminum housing.
I was able to get the leds to line up perfectly.
The end result is a stock beam pattern, but much, much brighter. Even at iso 100 and the exposure turned all the way down this led light is still over exposed. It’s not the best looking beam pattern, but it is stock and I can’t get any better short of installing a projector.
I still need to figure out a way to hold the bulb tight to the socket so it doesn’t rotate or move around. Right now the double o-rings seem to hold it very snugly, but I don’t trust them long term.
:+1: :+1: :+1:
Hey,
If it is not too much trouble I really appreciate it if you (JasonWW and others) could measure the amp draw. I am planning to get some led bulbs for my electric golf cart/buggy so the current consumption is quite important…
There isn’t any way to do that. The lights wires are sealed up. I might be able to trace the car’s low beam lead and use my clamp meter on it, but it’s mostly wrapped up.
The specs on the light I’m using say 1.8 amp at 12 volt input and 22 watts per bulb.
If you jumper the terminals where it plugs into the cars wiring you can measure it there. Simply jump 1 of them and use a meter on the other to get the reading. Also, it looked like the wires were septate coming out the back of the light, you could use a clamp meter there if you have one.
Jason, I like how the beam is more or less the same as OEM. This is so much better than if it’s off the OEM. At least it’s safe to use on the street. Next move would be to change the temp (emitter) to match your incan bulb.
Hope the LED is within the safe operating temp, as usually it’s not the case. Mine melted some solder joints in the driver (the other fanless design)
Okay, I was able to get some measurements. This is engine off and 12.7 volts.
Stock bulb - 3.84 amps 48.8 watts
Braided heatsink (4x) - 1.70 amps 21.6 watts
2nd set I tried (3x) - 1.50 amps 19 watts
The braided heatsink ones that I will be installing say they are rated at 1.8 (+ or - 0.2) amps so they are within spec. 4 times the lux and half the amp draw, what’s not to like? Lol.
If you want lower output, that first set I tried, that was about the same brightness as the stock bulbs, should only draw about 0.5 amp or less. I think they were about 6 watts.
No way I’m going back to that sickly orange.
Where would you even buy these emitters in different color temps?
They are too small to solder by hand, they would have to be reflowed and I’m not experienced in that.
I’m keeping them as is.
Thats not bad at all. With the car running the amp draw will most likely go up a bit as well.
Ah OK, I thought you wanted to increase the brightness only. I’m not a cool white person when it comes to driving 5000K-5700K is my upper limit. Cooler temp increase your awareness, especially in your peripheral vision region. But for me, on a long drive it’s just straining my eyes. I really hate CW headlight when transitioning from dark asphalt to light grey concrete. Or tailing a big white bus.
Yes, not many sell those Luxeon LED in smaller quantity
- Clemence
I’m not sure. The driver box should accept from 9 volt to 28 volt input so it obviously regulates the output. I’ve yet to check the draw at a different voltage. One thing I really like about them (LED in general) is the constant output. Incandescent bulbs noticeably dim and brighten depending on idle speed and load and I never liked that.