Thank you for the information. I am looking to buy only the cables. I am looking at the Blitz Wolf ones on BG. I will look for the USB micro, and USB C variants.
I believe they are called (driver) retaining rings.
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Well, I speak from experience on this one. Please do not feel stupid. It is a normal thing to not be perfect. We do our best and yet many times in hindsight, we see where we could have done a better or faster job. It is a natural process to try improve ourselves for the next challenge. This is built into our genes to improve our chances of survival. Remember, our ancestors did not live in as peaceful or easy environment as we do today and those survival traits are built into us physically and mentally.
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On the other hand, as we get older, we get slower and more forgetful. :weary:
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It is a retaining ring and are not universal. They are specifically made for each light. If you lose one you may be up a creek if the flashlight company won’t sell you one. So don’t loose it.
If you don’t intend any further mods, you can (worst case) solder the driver to the pill around the periphery.
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They are called ” Threaded Retaining Ring or Retaining ring “. They are custom made for each flashlight by the manufacturer. You can buy them here if they have the thread pitch and diameter you need.
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https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=1535
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https://www.newport.com/f/adaptors-and-retaining-rings
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I try to use only protected cells in series configuration multi-cell lights for exactly this reason. Even for lights with high current demands, it’s worth it to spend a little extra on some high drain protected cells. I figure you can’t put a price on safety.
Even with protected cells, if I noticed the cells discharging at vastly differing rates, I’d still retire them.
That’s good if possible. The problem is that a lot of lights can’t handle the 10mm or so extra length. You would need to make sure they will fit or else you’ll be wasting your time and money.
Oooh, nice links. I’ve not seen them before. :+1:
I’d also like to know if a lighted tail is possible with an e-switch driver?
I don’t think it can be done with the fw3a but maybe something like a d4 with an inner tube to carry 2 currents - one for lighted tail, one for main LEDs.
Doable?
D4 does not have double tubes or any way for light to get through the tail.
Does such a light even exist that is e-switch in the tail and also translucent for light? I’ve not seen such a light.
The whole question is a bit confusing to me.
Maybe a light like the L6 that has two switches and have the tail light up?
That’s probably possible. I think you can add a led and resistor and just wire it up direct in the tail. It will stay on all the time. It will be a constant small drain. You twist the tail to turn it off.
Sorry I wasn’t clear enough. I would machine up inner/outer tubes since that’s likely the only option.
I’m not really familiar with the L6 (never had one). From your explanation it sounds like no clicky in the tail just the circuit for tail lights? If that’s the case it would restrict power to the main LEDs. Hence either a lighted clicky or inner/outer tubes is needed.
I don’t see a need for an inner tube. Tail switch is clicky. No power restriction.
You need to give an example of a light for anyone to say yes or no it can be done. Is this a theoretical question? If so, then yes it can be done.
Ok I’ll have a think how to better explain myself. Thanks for taking the time though 
Most recommend 0.5A for the most charge cycles so it’s often better if you don’t mind the wait. I mostly charge 18650’s at 0.5A and 21700/26650’s I go 1A.
On BLF? I thought most recommended 1A. Oh, you mean to make the battery last. I don’t worry about them lasting for years because there will probably be new technology out by then and I’ll want new cells anyway.
I’m more concerned about time. I do 1A on my weakest, protected 18650’s, but step it up to 2A on my 30Q and similar high drain. My high drain 26650 get 3A. I don’t enjoy having to monitor batteries charging (which you should always do for safety reasons) so I try to speed up the process when I can.
There’s a guy selling deadstock 4sevens stuff on eBay, sp I got a Quark Turbo 123-2 that went DOA after I tried programming it. The light worked fine when I got it but the two programmed modes were useless - strobe and moonlight. But it worked so I don’t feel right going for a refund, as much as it irritates me 
I’m trying to figure of if the LED went bad or the driver? There’s an old CPF mod thread that makes it clear a emitter swap would be pretty easy so I might go that route. I’ve never seen anything like this and couldn’t find anything similar with a web search so I don’t know if it’s worthwhile to pursue. I checked the tailcap with my DMM and it is ok. I also measured the current and it’s 15ma so there’s power going to the LED just not the right amount. I can still get it into programming mode and can program SOS or Strobe but there is no ability to change brightness from what is seen - the current measurement doesn’t change either.
The mod would be XP-G R5 -> XP-G2 S4 5D from MTN electonics.
Here’s straight on, the brightness is very very dim.
ETA: There was no smoke or noise, just a flash when programming the turbo step and then very dim.
I bought some 18650 Samsung 35E protected button top batteries for my Fenix LR40R. When the 35E’s are installed I do not get the usual five levels of brightness, I only get four levels.
I asked Fenix what type of batteries I should use as a back up for the factory 18650 battery pack, and I was recommended to use quality protective button tops.
The OEM battery pack consists of four Fenix 3000 mAh batteries, for a total of 12000 mAh. The Samsungs are 3500 mAh each, total 14000 mAh.
Why do I not get the full light power when using the Samsung’s?
The protection circuits may not be allowing enough power through them.
What is the amp draw of the light on its highest power level?
What is the protection limit of the cells you bought?
I see this is a 12,000 lumen light. It is going to be drawing a lot of amps. I can’t seem to find info of what their 3500mah battery protection circuit is rated for.