Can someone clarify this for me? Tint is not equal to temperature right? Tint is a value relative to the temperature and the BBL?
CT is roughly how yellow or blue the light is. Tint is how magenta/green it would be.
Green is rather nasty, and imparts a sickly green pallor to everything. âRosyâ is the opposite, itâs generally âwarmerâ (not to be confused with lower CTs).
Goggle the ansi color chart with the BBL (black-body locus) line on it. Left or right along that line is the CT. Above it would be greener, below it would be rosier. So when you hear âabove the BBLâ or âbelow the BBLâ, youâll know what they mean.
On these forums people toss around the word tint all the time. For most people tint can mean the color, temperature or bin code.
For a technical definition, Iâd go with what Lightbringer says about tint being above or below the BBL. So either green/yellow or red/pinkish.
Here is a color chart with the BBL line on it.
I choose not to go too in depth studying color science. Itâs a huge complicated subject. I just stick to what I need to know in relation to leds and how they will look.
CT = color temperature, right? I just want to be clear on this.
Yep.
Ok sounds good. Searching for a clear definition yesterday but based on how people talk about it CCT = tint. Thanks for the clear answer.
Yeah I got confused because of that. glad you and Lightbringer clarified it for me. Much appreciated.
Man, I feel like an idiot. Here I was thinking âBBLâ meant âbelow blue line.â :person_facepalming:
So the color temperature of the sun can vary based on time of day, but what would it be if you measured it from outer space?
CT use Kelvin and tint use duv?
The surface temperature of the Sun is about 5800 Kelvin and thus color temperature would be about 5800K.
5778K.
Thanks to Rayoui and Lightbringer for your answers. That color temp is too cool for my taste in flashlights but for the sun, Iâll give it a pass 
Are there any best practices for using a 2x16340 light? Iâve got an old Fenix P3D I have been using as a work light. Iâve been using it normally (off/on for a few minutes at a time for a week or so between charges) and then charging the batteries - but after 2-3 cycles it seems like theyâre discharging unevenly. 1 battery will show 0-30% and the other 30-80% on my Nitecore i2 charger. Is there a way to balance them or are they just not going to match? Cells are Efest Red 700mah 16340 I bought new.
I want to buy some charger cables on BG. I want to buy a few USB type C chargers, and a few regular USB chargers. Thatâs because some torches have USB type C on-board plug-ins, and some have the regular USB on-board plug-ins.
But, I think that there are different types of âregularâ USBâs for example Samsung, iPhone, etcâŚ?
So, which regular USB chargers would torches use?
Are all type C chargers the same?
You really should use a DMM or a charger that shows accurate voltage or at least a charger that shows the recharge capacity (how many mAhs itâs putting in them).
If they for sure are discharging at different rates, then you are potentially in a dangerous situation. It means the built in low voltage protection, I assume the light has this, is going to allow one of the cells to discharge below safe levels. This damages it internally. Then you have a situation where it might not terminate a recharge, it will almost get there and hang getting hotter and hotter and possibly venting or starting a fire. A charger that shows capacity might show it being recharged to 800-1300mah which you know is not possible and it will be hot to the touch.
The best thing to do is play it safe and retire those 2 cells and buy a new matching set of 16340 or just retire the light for a newer one using a single cell.
On the flashlight end your looking at USB C and USB micro. Thatâs what most flashlights use. Mini is a bit older and not seen as much. Then the other end is a type A. Some cables are for charging and data, some are for charging only. This doesnt matter with a flashlight as both will work.
Are you asking only about cables or the chargers as well? Any car or wall socket that can do 2 amp will be fine. I would not waste money buying a 1A charger.
Thanks for the response :+1: Iâll retire the cells and I can buy a DMM from work so I will try that. Also plan to eventually get a Xtar VC2 so I can monitor charging better as well.
Donât bother buying USB C chargers for your torches. Most cannot charge from USB C and you would instead need to use a USB A to C cable.
For the chargers, just pick some quality brand chargers with USB A ports.
Just keep in mind the VC2 is a slow 0.5A x 2 charger. Fine for 16340 cells, but very slow for 18650 or bigger.
Can someone tell me how these brass rings with threads are called exactly (some kind of nut?) and if you can buy them seperatly? Looks like M18x0,75 and is used to hold the tail switch and PCB in the tail cap
I wasnt able to find out anything about this part
