LOL, I can try to take one. I don’t take many pictures now days mostly because I am a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to pictures and can easily spend 15 minutes taking and exposing the raw file of a picture of a simple driver :confounded:
I have found it easier to simply not take pictures since my photo booth was taken down.
Hahaha you and my wife would get along! She annoys me to no end when it’s picture taking time.
Here are some pics from a Thorfire c8s. The driver in the VG10’s I have appear to be the same.
C8s driver
Yep, that is it. Those tests reach the same results, a very high resistance FET driver at 1S voltages.
It works but why they did this when they have a fully buck capability on the driver I don’t understand. Lower the resistance and it could have regulated power down to ~3.5V (or a basically empty cell).
Just throw a Dedomed XM-L2 U4 1A on Noctigon in it and it makes a world of difference.
Have 2 others I am gonna try FET with the Dedomed U4 and maybe a FET and XP-L HI V3 3C in the other one.
Here is the comparison with the factory light and the Noctigon with dedomed U4 (both with factory driver) in them at 95 yards to the gate……….
Factory
Dedomed on Noctigon
How many amps is it supposed to pull?
They may have been trying to increase the power. The old driver only pulled less than 2.5amps where as this one pulls 3amps or more on a fresh cell. Not saying this was a good way to do it though.
Last of my VG10 arrived today. This was the Amazon deal that was shipped from over seas. All 3 of mine have the Blue driver, shipped from USA or China.
OK, last one don’t have the Blue driver anymore…
Went with djburkes build and did the XP-L HI 3D and an A6 Fet+1. VG10 had Leftovers for dinner.
It has a Black square in the middle of the hot-spot up close, getting smaller till about 3ft. Gets an X in the middle till about 8-10ft and finally goes away after.
I am by no means good at focusing a beam and do not have a meter to measure. I am assuming this is good to get optimum throw? Did get some info out of older C8 threads but I am looking for tips here.
I do like how my last VG10 has the 2 piece reflector spacer. I was able to use the XP spacer under the upper half and fit well.
djburkes help?
I sanded my spacer way down. I started with the bottom of the spacer then finished with sanding the top until the reflector barely sat in it. There’s no artifacts in the beam except for the stainless bezel.
Thanks, have the top under the reflector and sanded bottom a bit. Yes, there is a ring from stainless bezel.
Just sanded the spacer even more (its very thin now) and the Black hole is now evident even further away… back to the drawing board.
Now have come to realise that of the three VG10 I have, one… of course the one I am trying to get focused, has a different reflector than the other 2. Used the other reflector in the XP-L HI and its pretty nice. No more Black Hole.
The odd reflector I can not get focused, has a machined lip on Top Outer Edge for an Oring I guess. My other 2 do not.
That sucks…I’ve got three coming, hopefully they’ll be the same as my last.
Hmm? Looks like I should have picked up a few of these back when they were “good”. Still good but, ya know?
Could you please post a pic of the bad reflector? I think I have one as well, the beam has a slight donut hole at all the distances. I was blaming the thin and slightly damaged emitter gasket but trying to shim it hasn’t really helped yet and I don’t want to keep wasting my time if the reflector is the problem.
Already have the lights assembled. Post your reflector and I will let you know.
Not working for me.
Anyway, I already ordered one a week ago when it was $9.99.
This is what’s in my VG10.
I just built my VG10 with a 219C 90+ CRI and a Texas Avenger driver and I swapped the tail switch for a reverse clicky. I really like it, great beam, good heat handling and overall feels great. Basically what a P60 should be.
The only complaint I have at this point where I am using it as a host is the lack of an o-ring on the lens. The glass is just ever so slightly loose and will rattle if you really shake it. Plus there is zero waterproofing about it. I have no clue why they did this. I will most likely end up ordering an o-ring for it at some point and trying to get it to fit, although not sure if the bezel will screw down if I do that.
The code posted awhile back on amazon still works SQYPGBB4 I ordered one yesterday. Should have got two.