Ok thanks everyone. Saved me a few dollars.
So They will be dedicated to the Quark, and WLs from here on in then.
Anyone know where I can find them in stock ?
Thanks
The man himself
http://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html?zenid=75ec148e0d277b70a7f61c4a9b95ae3b
I’m wondering how much of an output hit the Nichia version takes from going 80 to 90 CRI. I’m guessing at least 10%.
Not sure, possibly …………but to the eye you would be hard pushed to tell. Besides that, the 219c is good for 20s or so before step down, so not a critical factor imo. For some, the difference of 10cri would be worth the little output hit……………others maybe not. As for these small lights, any duration(over a min) would be 100’s of lumens and not 1000’s anyway…….just thoughts.
Quite possibly none.
Because Hank didn’t used the highest bin of 80-CRI one.
But there has been no official communication on this matter…
Mine took quite a hit from going to 219c 4000k 90+ CRI. Would estimate ~500 lumen less than the XP-G2 5D now.
Edit: Flux bin is d240.
Still, it may be well worth the tradeoff since the D4 heats up so quickly when in turbo.
Not really, it still heats up extremely fast. But the fantastic tint is worth it!
So where can I find a good pocket clip for my D4 flashlight? Thanks!
Ask Hank if he can sell you one. There is a option to add a clip when buying the d4.
I bought from intl outdoor. I guess I missed that option when buying. Thanks for the info! I appreciate that.
No problem!
It was only recently he added that option, so maybe you didn’t miss it.
In a floody light like this, CRI is usually more important than lumens. However, CRI is still relatively hard to actually see, compared to other traits. The factors which determine how nice a light looks, roughly in order, are: color temperature, consistency within the beam, distance from blackbody line, CRI.
If it’s too warm or too cold, nothing else is going to make it look good.
If the beam has rainbow patterns, it might look okay after going through a diffuser but otherwise is going to look unappealing. This is the main drawback of Cree’s latest line of emitters, like XP-G3 — they have more pronounced “Cree rainbow” than the previous generation (XP-G2).
If a light isn’t close to the blackbody line, it doesn’t look white… it looks like some sort of color instead. The most common issue is to be above the BBL, which results in green or yellow tints. However, I find that being a bit under the line typically looks good — a little bit pink.
CRI is certainly nice to have, and I find that high-CRI 4000K can be tolerable while medium-CRI 4000K looks terrible to me… but it’s the least important of these factors. I’d take a medium-CRI 4750K pinkish-tint emitter over one which is too warm or too cold, or rainbowy, even if it’s high-CRI.
TK, thanks for spelling it out like that. Makes a lot of sense to me as I have been giving this issue a lot of thought lately.
rule of thumb: the drop in lumens will be similar to the increase in CRI
IF the 5d is 70 CRI, then the 90 CRI 219c has 29% more CRI, at a cost of 29% less lumens…
IF so, then
1000 lumens becomes 710 lumens, a drop of 290
10 lumens becomes 7 lumens, a drop of 3
or, a cost of 29% shorter battery life for 29% more CRI, when the two LEDs are ramped to the same lumen levels
This is wrong.
Such rule may or may not work when comparing different bins of the same emitter. But then you can often compare bins directly.
With different emitters it will produce wildly wrong results. This 90 CRI 219C will probably produce more lumens than that 70 CRI XP-G2.
FWIW, some output ratings for the D4:
- XP-G2 70+ CRI: 3300 lm
- 219c 90+ CRI: 3500 lm
- 219c 80+ CRI: 3800 lm
- XP-L HI 70+ CRI: 4300 lm
In general, higher CRI will have fewer lumens within a single emitter product line… but that’s not always the whole story.
Do you know the flux bin of the 219c 90+ CRI version?
For the record: maximum output with KD Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92 is about 3000 lumens. The tint is worth it.