Does anyone have comparision between old D260/83 and new 90? Does it have lower bin? Maybe pictures?
The old one was probably D240. I haven’t seen this confirmed anywhere, but this is the bin that IOS sold separately.
When you say “not compatible” what do you mean?
Do the threads match, but the 18350 tube’s threads simply aren’t long enough? … if that is the case making it compatible should be easy: Take a bit of copper or aluminum sheet metal, cut it into a strip, bend the strip into a C-ring and insert it into the head to bridge the gap.
Was just reading and wondering the same thing. What is making them not compatible? Does that mean the D4 18650 battery tube is also not compatible? So basically the threads on the D1S are different than the D1 and D4?
Well, She said it looks awesome with the short tube on it so I can only assume it does indeed thread in such that you can see it as a complete light, but it doesn’t allow functionality. Probably too short, not sure what other reason would cause incompatibility.
As long as the threads actually screw together it shouldn’t be hard to make it compatible.
Saw that as well. So the threading on the head is different by not going as deep and leaving a gap between the battery and spring? There is not much threading on those tubes, so maybe there is more needed to go further into the D1S? So maybe the diameter is the same, but more threading length is needed to reach the proper depth?
I’m not sure, ToyKeeper knows all too well how to bridge a gap, so maybe it’s something else, a great mystery of epic proportions? 
The D1S tube is a couple threads longer to make it a physically stronger connection, so the shorty tubes stop a couple threads short. That’s all. It shouldn’t be difficult to make a spacer.
Thanks for clarifying.
Got a 219C, this light is by far the best light I’ve ever owned. Love the colors, and the UI. Really like IU’s, with one click on and off, and hold for different settings.
Thanks for a great light!
Back to the clip
Somewehere in this thread there was a note about the Astrolux MH10 clip
So I give him a chance…
This day it arrived and I have to say this one fits quite well :+1:
https://www.banggood.com/de/Astrolux-MH10-Flashlight-Body-Clip-p-1070397.html?rmmds=search
Here on the Emisar D1 and the D4 with the 18500 Tube. On the right side the clip of the Spark SL6.
This one fits also really tight. You can not move it until it´s clip on
On the 18350 Tube the clip of the MH10 even works but it´s looking strange :person_facepalming:
they got me with the cyan colour, it pushed me over the edge. i’m a sucker for non-black.
I tried the Carclo 10623 optic today in my D4. It blends the tint a bit better, but it also greatly reduces the punch of the light. Going back to the Carclo 10621.
So because I have a ton of the CR123’s and never have bothered to ask is it the 18350 tube or the 18500 the one that will work with the cr123’s I have a pile of. (lots of 4/7’s lights and Olights in my collection.)
Awesome review now I want one haha
CR123 cells are NOT usable with this light. :+1:
I don’t think it would work because of the low voltage and if it did, you would not have a good time if this thing ever got bumped up to turbo mode accidentally or otherwise.
I just checked by hooking up to a bench power supply set at 3.0 volts. XP-L pulls 1.30 amps on turbo, 219C pulls 1.55. That’s about 1C for a CR123, which ought to be OK (in terms of “vent with fire”), but the CR123s aren’t going to be able to maintain 3.0 volts under anything near that load, so you’d probably hit LVP within seconds.