It actually went very smoothly. Brass is a great metal for dremel work, reinforced cut wheels and barrel grinders go right through the stuff. I just eye-balled everything using a caliper for diameter and depth measurements and in the end, the 7135 spring ended up ~1.5mm farther out than the OEM spring. So it compresses the -B spring just a little more, and works great with unprotected cells. Things might be a little different with a protected cell in there.
I have a 1-100% ramping mode P60 drop in and honestly its more complexity than needed for the task, but realistically its biggest problem is that its only a single mode type ramp, where you have to stop it where you want. So it is slow to go from low to hi... IMHO.
Just a little update... I ran the E1320 mod HD2010 for about 7 minutes at 3.55A and it was definitely very warm. Border-line hot around all the heatsink fins and up to the bezel area. It seemed slightly warmer than before the mod, so I think its driving the LED maybe a little harder than previously. I dont find it "alarmingly" hot however, so I think 3.55A (tailcap draw) is a good setting to get the most out of the XML in a host this size, and the 7135 efficiency
After running it to this temperature however, the XML efficiency dropped enough to render the ~.003 candle mode inoperative. I let the temperature of the light cool a little (still warm to the touch) and candle mode lit right back up. So I think this E1320 board is really pushing the XML to its extremes, at both ends of the spectrum.
Erik said I could send the driver back to have it re-programmed, but I think I am just going to leave it this way since I dont usually leave my throw lights ON their brightest setting constantly... and I dont think I really need to jump back and forth from .25 to ~800 Lumens. If I have been using turbo setting long enough to really cook the LED, I don't think I will need a night-vision preserving .25 Lumens, at least not immediately.
Its not the board diameter, its the stack-up of SMT parts. The diameter is fine, the 7135 board will drop right in. The additional 7135 drivers on the battery side of the board crash into the ring, preventing it from threading down into the pill.
Mine doesn't work this way. If I set it to any mode and leave it off for less than about two minutes, it comes on in the next mode which is annoying to say the least. Leaving it off for more than about two minutes (haven't figured out the exact time) does cause it to come back on high. Can't skip from low to high by half-pressing for more than a second, either, or even 5 seconds. All that does is send it to the next mode.
Defective maybe? Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?
Some driver discharges residual memory voltage through a resistor, once discharged, the driver "forgets" the last mode and comes back on high. How fast this discharge is determined by the resistance of the resistor.
Seems your driver uses a higher R resistor, it sinks the residual voltage more slowly (2 minutes). If you know how, you can measure which resistor has voltage AFTER shut off, the same should have little or no voltage after 2 minutes. Replace that with lower value R, or just piggyback with another low resistor.
Thank you for posting this!! I always wondered that.
FWIW... my light (before the mod) needed about 3.5 seconds to "forget" its mode and reset. So a softpress and hold of over 3 seconds would revert it back to HI. Theres only 4 resistors on the board I wonder which one is the one that bleeds off the voltage from the EPROM?
It took me a while to figure it out. I was looking all over for it. If you click "Secure Checkout" then go down to the third blue box where the total price is and there'll be an option on the left that reads "Have a coupon?" It's the same when you pay with ebay once you get to that stage in the checkout process.
