Before buying them Iāve seen such tool in a ZozzV6 video. I searched for it and only found some very expensive ones.
If someone needs them - the correct search term is ācamera lens spannerā.
lexel driver, soldering on spring, shit fell off!
I was repairing my DQG Fairy.
I suspected a faulty FET.
I set out to test it, unsoldered it and started measuring.
Test 1 ā probably failed. Not sure, the tiny MOSFET would move under the slightest touch. I turned to find something to hold it. When I turned backā¦the MOSFET was gone. Did my t-shirt touch it during the turn and swipe it off the table? I donāt know. Anyway ā I failed to find it. I think Iāll need to ask somewhere else to find a replacementā¦.
Itās a tiny 3-legged FET named A2:
Any hints on where I can find a replacement or how is this package called?
burnt my coat... during beamshots I held 1 of the lights to my coat in order to wait 30 seconds before the next beamshot.. but it quickly burnt my coat.... so I'm not sure if that counts as something being broken though.
A walk has broght me a solution. Ditch the FET, short the tracks, put QTC inside. 
Not today, but yesterday I broke some plastics inside my old Audi Q7 while changing the Xenon bulbs. Doesnāt seem to be important but still hurt a little.
Recently I tried to install one of gcharts battery indicator tail lights. I should point out at the start here that all the following mishaps are my own and not a reflection of gcharts goods. I used regular noodle to connect the board to the switch (installed). The light didnāt function. I thought maybe the nob on the rubber switch boot was too long so I trimmed it (reinstalled). The light would flicker and was sporadic so I figured it was an earthing issue, added a spacer to make good earth, checked it with psu outside host (reinstall). No light at all. Check switch outside host with psu, nothing, then found the issue was the noodle allowed the board to spin and push off one of the components.
At that scale I canāt see well (even with glasses) let alone use an iron well. So I set it aside and pulled out the second board I purchased. At that time I saw the stiff wire in the packet and realized why it was supplied. So, everything soldered up and stiff. Install, no light. Check switch with psu, it works. Install and check with battery, nothing. Check with psu in host, works. I removed a BG lighted tail from another light and checked it in this one, works. Reinstall gchart switch, nothing. So now Iām guessing the new board requires more current than the Dr Jones driver can bleed off. I confer with gchart and gives me some advice in the right direction ( 
). Install a bleed resistor of 680-1000 ohm.
The driver is soldered in place on this light, I hate that due to my soldering skills. Pretty much the whole head needs to be dismantled to get the driver out. Remove pill, oring, glass, optic, desolder led wires, desolder driver. I found a 600ohm and installed that, hoping it might work. I was kinda proud of my soldering at this point
Install, one light in the tail lights up 
Woohoo so iām on the right track. I just need to a higher value resistor. When trying to desolder the resistor both the capacitor and resistor come off in one. I picked up the duo with my tweezers and pinched it so they went flying ā¦ down the back of my bench 
So now iām thinking of removing the leds and driver and installing L4P driver and mosled. I just havenāt got around to it yet because the above pissed me off.
Oh no, what luck 
Those PFETs are tiny! (SC-70 / SOT-323)
That 604 Ohm resistor should have been perfect. Not exactly what you want to hear nowā¦ What was the batteryās voltage? With 1 LED lit, the extended datasheet I found says the voltage should be in the range of 3.4-3.55 V. Was it near that?
And yes, that range is a bit different than some of my testing and seems a bit high if you think of capacity as being linear with voltage, but the more I study HKJās tests, Iām changing my thoughts on that subject.
No the battery was up around 4v. If I unscrewed the head and shorted the + to battery tube all the lights lit up. Going through the driver only 1 light.
Over the last 2 days Iāve been filing a 20mm MCPCB down to 10 mm with the intention of using it in my Skywolfeye B16. I hate this job. Fortunately I got my brotherās rotary tool at hand. And the PCB was alu Mosled Extreme. Before I used to file MCPCBs by hand.
After the job was done I checked for shorts (there were none) and disassembled the light.
The mostly very good build quality of this zoomie made me expect a lot from it and so it surprised me that it had a hollow pill.
I fit everything, increased the size of wire holes, fit againā¦.and noticed that I need ~12mm MCPCB. With the current one heat transfer to pill sides will be terrible.
I need to start overā¦.this time Iāll try to remove bulk by cutting.
.
That sucks and something I worry about too. My sympathy
Finally a thread I can frequently contribute to.
LOL
I recently tried to harvest some rgb leds from a busted L4P lighted tail switch
I also mustāve overheated 1-2 other leds because they no longer work at all. The project is on hold until I can get partsā¦
Followupā¦
yesterday and today I cut and filed another PCB. It was fine until I scrapped solder mask to form new lead pads.
I scrapped too deep and have a direct short between anode pad and the base. And I have a short between cathode at the base somewhere around the perimeter as well. There is no direct short between anode and cathode but as soon as I add solder there will be - if I got solder mask I could attempt fixing it, but I donāt. Any other insulator that could be recommended?
Nail-polish / enamel?
A bloke in poland thought his wife was going to kill him because she had polish remover on her dressing table
One of those daysā¦
Will it be fine near liquid solder?ā¦