Not sure about nail-polish, but enamel should hold up quite well.
If you wanna be sure, though, get specifically-listed hi-temp paint, like for painting rims (brake heat), exhaust manifolds, etc.
They’re usually in spray form, but just spritz some in a small puddle, and dab that on with a toothpick or similar.
What about liquid electrical tape?
Ouch! One of my sons did that on my ancient JennAir. $270 for a replacement glass top.
Yea we had that happen once, just got a whole new stove/oven. Wasn’t worth 50% of the cost to repair.
It’s a fairly expensive induction range. I got it at a scratch and dent sale for about $600 but regular price is about $1600. The new top was $300. Its only 2 years old.
And nothing heavy will ever be stored in the cupboard over the range ever again. Learned my lesson.
Thanks for the tips guys!
I have a heater paint but it’s rated to 80 °C only, may not fare well when touched with 300.
I checked liquid electrical paints but what I see locally is either very expensive or in spray.
I think I can get a can of high temp paint though. Not sure, most paints either contain aluminum or are in sprays.
.
Our condolences and sympathies . 
I reclaimed some leds from an old printer control panel. I put them in a ring to make another infinity mirror tail. It was a bit of a pita trying to keep them in place whilst soldering. Somewhere along the line I busted 2 of them 
I also chipped the edge of the mirror I was going to use, though I think I can still use it as it’ll be hidden behind the leds.
Pulled my DQG Hobi+ out of the dryer today. Yes, after it went through the full wash cycle.
But this may be the wrong thread, because it still works fine. Even the built-in charger… I was sure it would be dead. I was looking for it, and narrowed it down to “must have left it in my pants…” and when I realized those pants had already been washed, I went to find the “body” in the dryer…
After working fine for two years, something weird happened to my modded Convoy S2+. It fell on concrete and stopped working immediately. On a hunch, I unscrewed the tailcap to be welcomed by an acrid, sulfur-plastic-carcinogen smell. The driver-side spring somehow ripped itself off and fell into place.
What place? The exact spot that would cause a dead short, of course!
After arriving home, I checked the damage. Tailcap bypass wire’s insulation has burnt off (that was the source of the smell), driver spring’s misadventure has been described above. After removing the spring, I checked the driver’s positive and negative terminals… DEAD SHORT.
Okay, that’s fine! I check all components… no shorts detected anywhere. Okay, desoldering each component and checking for shorts… nope. Last was the Attiny13A - after removing it the short disappeared! I checked the MC for shorts… it’s fine.
What?
Plugged it into my USBASP… it reads just fine.
What?
On a whim, I solder all the components back.
There’s no short.
What?!
Without replacing anything except the tailcap spring, the flashlight just works. There are issues with the connection, might be related to the slightly-melted switch (don’t angrily turn your soldering station’s knob when it doesn’t perform to your expectations). Other than that, it sometimes emits light when you press the button, so that’s “fully operational” in my book.
My best guess is something desoldered and bridged a connection at/near (under?) the Attiny 13A
Swap from XP-G2 to sliced LH315D did not go as planned. The optic did some more slicing when I wasn’t looking.
Ouch, that’s unfortunate! I’ve done the same with a LH351D
I experimented with my Quadrupel driver for my Boruit D10
I noticed that everything was powered while the light was plugged into MicroUSB with no battery. Ramped up and down, did some level of “turbo” (I assume it just took whatever it could from the charger? Didn’t have a USB meter on it to check). Cool stuff! So naturally I popped a battery in, plugged in the MicroUSB to charge, and turned the light back on. Double-click for turbo (I’d already fixed set the ramp ceiling) got me a bright flash of light and then a bunch of dim.
I ’sploded it! The stock, cool white XM-L2 that I was going to swap (and honestly, I have at least six spares of cool white XM-L2) doesn’t make much light anymore. Well, I already have the LH351Ds and TIRs at this point, just waiting for 3535 MCPCBs. If I cared I could throw in another XM-L2 or I’ve got some Luxeon V on boards already.
Oh right, the whole point I had the light out, I updated the Anduril version on it. The driver fits the GT-Mini firmware build target.
Well I attempted to try and flash a custom version Andruil onto my Haikelite MT09R (it normally runs Narsil) and screwed something up.
Avrdude kept spitting out various error messages such as Verify error - unable to read lfuse properly, and avrdude: verification error; content mismatch. I kept trying to fix these, but no luck.
Eventually I got the error…
avrdude: error: programm enable: target doesn’t answer. 1
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=–1
… and haven’t been able to communicate with the chip since.
It looks like I’ve completely bricked my flashlight
Now I either need to get a new microcontroller and solder it on, or try and fix the fuse bits on this one using an external 8MHz crystal somehow, since I’m pretty sure that’s what I’ve screwed up.
During soldering driver wire on mcpcb,
A welding sketch hit the led dome with permanent mark (maybe cause was the solder paste incorporated on SN60 / 40PB alloy wire)
I was testing a Nichia E17A board with various LED spacers and accidentally swiped the LEDs. Those LEDs sure are fragile! An expensive mistake. Not due to the cost of the LEDs, but due to the shipping. Went from a nice CCT to purple. I’ll wait until standard shipping is available again to replace the broken E17As.
Oops
:+1: 
