What did you BREAK today?

Was planning to put a red 5mm led in a cheap AAA light.
Ended up zapping my two red led’s and the tiny driver of the poor thing.

So I scraped off all parts of the driver, and probed all traces with a DMM.
Now I’m having a cheap 5mm UV light, with a 10440 and one resistor.

broke a Benjamin buying this:

300 neopixels. I was repairing a 12v strip and thought I’d test my new 5 meter strip. A few pops, bangs and smoke later, I remembered they were 5v strips :frowning:

My thoughts exqctly

A rosy XP-G2 and…the driver of my S1R Baton I :cry:
Was modding the flashlight (putting a new MCPCB and LED) and when I turned it on, I pressed the MCPCB , it eventually provoked a short.
Then I replaced the battery, the light started functioning again and then…smoke. Removed the battery, put it on again and saw something “orange” inside, as something burning. And then, that “smell” you have when you burn a component…
I should have stayed quiet and not moving it :frowning:

I didn’t break anything , but I’m saving up for a new ass because mine has a crack in it .

Pack it with some JB Weld. Fixes it right up, and keeps the crack from spreading.

Thrunite T10T v2 couldn’t handle the heat. reflector, lens, o-ring and led gasket also needs a swap. :disappointed:

Ouch… how did that happen?

Deep-fryer, it looks like.

My plan was to swap emitters but in order to do so the head needs to be heated first to weaken the thread locker on the bezel. I heard a pop (likely the reflector coating) and some smoke appeared and melted plastic lens. Because the reflector is screwed into the head I believe it absorbed a lot of the heat. The light still works I just need to find a replacement for those parts.

I commend the idea of threading the small reflector to the head – better heat dissipation. But a plastic lens and thread locker; not a good mix for disassembly.
I’ve had some success in re-furbishing some reflectors. Successive finer grit sandpapers / abrasive pads (#3000) and finishing with the backside of #1000. The latter is touchy, replacing the paper area from one polish workout to the next. Can’t recall if I did it dry or wet. The end result was much better than my original damaged one but not as perfect as the vapour deposition (I’m assuming here the method of mass-producing these reflectors). No worst than an orange peel reflector. But I’ve moved to order from KD - so much less work.

Broke ANOTHER PL47g2 lens.

Agreed, Kaidomain has an excellent variety of reflectors and lenses! Maybe even upgrade to an AR lens.

My Timex
Opened it up to change battery.
Can’t get the back to go on.
Tried all the suggestions on youtube to no avail.
Any tips or tricks?

! !

Got it—-Put it in vise, bare, no padding; squeezed it off center, first top, then bottom—-sucess.
Also took off o-ring and cleaned both races with alcohol and put a light coat of nyogel on o-ring.

Thanks.

Check old/new cells for thickness. My old watch, it took a 2016 but I could stuff a 2020 in there. Or 2020 and 2025. Ie, a thicker cell. Very snug, but at least I was able to almost double the runtime.

Try putting the back on with no cell, make sure no stripped threads. Try again with the old cell. Then finally with the new cell. Find where the chain breaks.

Looks like a compression back. Either the battery is thicker, there may be a cutout in the ring that has to be aligned with the watch stem, or there is a water-resistant gasket that is unseated.

Sometimes even just a challenge of getting uniform compression, with any slight warping it will unseat.

Good luck.

Unno, I can only see the teeny little pix, nothing larger so no details.

I broke my budget… :person_facepalming: I bought another flashlight!

I somehow broke my 8 month old Ersa RDS 80 soldering station. I don’t know what happened. Something not connecting right. Shows error on screen when turning the handle to different positions. At least Amazon lets me return it with full refund.